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Old 02-22-2013, 07:50 PM   #2476
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Without digging through all of the pages of this thread, are there an US retailers carrying this kit and parts yet?
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:57 PM   #2477
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Integy is in CA. They carry it.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:07 PM   #2478
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Without digging through all of the pages of this thread, are there an US retailers carrying this kit and parts yet?
Hotshot hobby in Marietta GA.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:10 PM   #2479
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tqrcracing.com
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:21 PM   #2480
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cool, thanks guys.

Thinking of moving my TC4 to VTA duty and try out the Zero in open.
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Old 02-23-2013, 07:06 AM   #2481
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tqrcracing and hotshot are both awesome to deal with. Have not tried the others.
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Old 02-23-2013, 01:39 PM   #2482
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Default Metalsoft's Tutorial on how to build Leak proof shocks

Here we go, I figure I would post this up as I was working on this today getting ready for this weekend's race...

Metalsoft's guide to build leak proof shocks!

Here we go

First you need the parts, I shop at TQrcracing.com for my Zero parts. Very fast shipping and the cost is only $2.99! I use the TRF M chassis springs as they are a direct fit to the STOCK sakura S zero



These are how you do it right, TRF bladders and TRF o rings



Next tear them apart and get them really clean...




Start rebuilding them using the TRF parts, and do not forget the plummers tape, wrap some around the bottom threads...




Tighten everything down ( by hand! ) and add plummers tape to the top also...



Fill with quality shock oil ( I use AE ) and boom you have a perfect built shock that will NEVER leak!




Sure does look nice! Getting ready for this weekend.



I still use the stock shocks, and if you build them this way they will last forever and be just as good and any shock you buy on the market. ( with in reasonable price. )

Enjoy, I have to get back to work!
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Old 02-23-2013, 02:26 PM   #2483
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Originally Posted by Metalsoft View Post
Here we go, I figure I would post this up as I was working on this today getting ready for this weekend's race...

Metalsoft's guide to build leak proof shocks!

Here we go

First you need the parts, I shop at TQrcracing.com for my Zero parts. Very fast shipping and the cost is only $2.99! I use the TRF M chassis springs as they are a direct fit to the STOCK sakura S zero



These are how you do it right, TRF bladders and TRF o rings



Next tear them apart and get them really clean...




Start rebuilding them using the TRF parts, and do not forget the plummers tape, wrap some around the bottom threads...




Tighten everything down ( by hand! ) and add plummers tape to the top also...



Fill with quality shock oil ( I use AE ) and boom you have a perfect built shock that will NEVER leak!




Sure does look nice! Getting ready for this weekend.



I still use the stock shocks, and if you build them this way they will last forever and be just as good and any shock you buy on the market. ( with in reasonable price. )

Enjoy, I have to get back to work!
Nice write up but I have never had the stock shocks leak. they lasted a year of racing almost every weekend before the lower o rings started leaking. I changed the upper bladders at the same time just because but they weren't leaking.
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Old 02-23-2013, 03:18 PM   #2484
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That's cool, I did not have such luck, and the 3 guys I race with didn't either.

I just wanted to write this up so guys getting the kit new, can do it the right way the first time.
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Old 02-23-2013, 05:35 PM   #2485
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Thanks for taking the time to share that.
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Old 02-23-2013, 08:09 PM   #2486
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That's cool, I did not have such luck, and the 3 guys I race with didn't either.

I just wanted to write this up so guys getting the kit new, can do it the right way the first time.
Wow. can't believe you are having so many problems with the shocks. we have a lot of these cars at our track and I personally have owned four and worked closely with seven or eight. all of the stock shocks and the aluminium upgraded shocks have been great. maybe 3racing went through a bad batch or something. I was using associated green slime on the lower o rings and building the shocks with zero rebound and everything has been great. good to know that the tamiya parts work just in case I'm in a jam one day.

Now that I have said all of this watch my shocks leak next weekend. now where is that oak tree? I need to knock on it for a while.
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Old 02-24-2013, 09:17 PM   #2487
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Thanks for the shock info. I really came to rely on the Tamiya shocks and their parts a decade ago. I learned about them owning several Tamiyas. When I went to Associated I learned how good the Tamiya stuff was (not that Associated stuff was bad, but I really preferred the Tamiya shock products. When I started with Yokomos, I used every Tamiya shock part I could. So, naturally I am stoked to hear that Tamiya shock parts are still well thought out.

Last edited by capnkids; 02-24-2013 at 09:18 PM. Reason: Fat finger typing
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Old 02-24-2013, 11:50 PM   #2488
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any body ever have a problem with the zero s stock center pully? (20t) today mine just got chewed up somehow( the outer lip which keeps the rear belt in line)......
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Old 02-25-2013, 06:51 AM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by capnkids View Post
Thanks for the shock info. I really came to rely on the Tamiya shocks and their parts a decade ago. I learned about them owning several Tamiyas. When I went to Associated I learned how good the Tamiya stuff was (not that Associated stuff was bad, but I really preferred the Tamiya shock products. When I started with Yokomos, I used every Tamiya shock part I could. So, naturally I am stoked to hear that Tamiya shock parts are still well thought out.

I agree 100%, I have always liked Tamiya shocks. You could go as far as using the Pistons and shock shafts, but for the type of club racing I do, it would be useless to upgrade the stock shocks that far.

But using the Oil seals, springs and bladders really does make a difference, and keeps them cheap also.

Altogether, I spent a extra $15 to make them perform 10x better than they did before.
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Old 02-25-2013, 09:16 AM   #2490
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I have a question, has any one tried running differant size gears on the center pulley. example, a 21 tooth spocket for the front tires and a 20 tooth for the rear tires. What would be the pros and cons of do this. Thanks
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