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Old 02-16-2013, 10:57 PM   #2431
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Im looking at putting the s on a diet i can lose 100grams and still be over min weight, i can save 70 grams by switching from a 5300 to 4000 lipo, can i save any weight by using a spool or ball diff? could someone weigh those items for me please, i already have carbon fibre f/r towers and top deck but not main chassis
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:11 PM   #2432
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Just getting back into the game after a couple decades hiatus

Found the Zero S refreshing. It is great to not have to drop a ton of cash for a competitive car for the local club scene.

Thread has been a great source of information.

Can someone help me understand the codes on the suspension mounts (ie. RR +20 and RF-5)
RR=rear rear block so RR+20 is 2deg rear toe in RF=rear front block(closest one to the motor) so RF-5 gives you .5 deg of toe in. So if you were to use those two blocks together you would have a total of 2.5deg rear toe in which is what i use
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:28 AM   #2433
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Im looking at putting the s on a diet i can lose 100grams and still be over min weight, i can save 70 grams by switching from a 5300 to 4000 lipo, can i save any weight by using a spool or ball diff? could someone weigh those items for me please, i already have carbon fibre f/r towers and top deck but not main chassis
The ball diff is about 3 grams lighter than the gear diff with aluminum outdrives. even more if your gear diff has steel outdrives. the spool is even lighter but I can't remember how much. if you add the heavy duty spool outdrives you add some weight back but add a lot of durability. You won't break a heavy duty outdrive. you wear them out. I'm going off of memory here because I weighed them when I switched over from the gear diffs. All I can say 100% is that the spool and the ball diff are both lighter than the fluid filled gear diff.
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Old 02-17-2013, 08:50 AM   #2434
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Originally Posted by thefan View Post
RR=rear rear block so RR+20 is 2deg rear toe in RF=rear front block(closest one to the motor) so RF-5 gives you .5 deg of toe in. So if you were to use those two blocks together you would have a total of 2.5deg rear toe in which is what i use
RF-05 takes out .5 deg toe (-.5 deg not +.5 deg). So RR+20 and RF-05 gives you 1.5 deg toe. If you want 2.5 deg to you have to use RR+30 and RF-05.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:56 AM   #2435
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RF-05 takes out .5 deg toe (-.5 deg not +.5 deg). So RR+20 and RF-05 gives you 1.5 deg toe. If you want 2.5 deg to you have to use RR+30 and RF-05.
This is not correct as the holes in RF 05 blocks are closer together than RF 0 block which means it will give toe in not out, like i said im using RF 05 and RR 20 and according to the setup gauge 2.5deg toe in
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:24 AM   #2436
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Vette how do you find the spool on driveshafts and tires? have heard things break easily if you clip a board and front tires wear faster
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Old 02-17-2013, 12:13 PM   #2437
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Guys thanks for the replies.
The coding refers to the toe not kick up or something else. That makes sense.
I just installed the verticle motor mount version 3. It is the one with the complete aluminum spur gear mount. Very nice. It has plenty of room for pinion mounting/adjustments.
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Old 02-17-2013, 01:32 PM   #2438
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Vette how do you find the spool on driveshafts and tires? have heard things break easily if you clip a board and front tires wear faster
There is definitely more pressure on the cv axles at the outdrive cups on the spool. I have broken my share of the plastic outdrive cups. I would highly recommend going with theheavy duty metal outdrive cups. I race almost every weekend and I get about six months out of a set before I consider them to be too worn to use anymore. you will actually see where the pin on the axle is starting to wear out the outdrive. since the outdrives are softer than the steel axle they take the damage and the axle stays in good shape. I have only worn the outdrives and have not had any issues with axles or bearings. The tire wear seems to be ok. Nothing to really complain about. my rears usually wear a little less than the front but that could simply be due to the steering duties of the front wheels too. The wear is always to the point where I don't feel bad about replacing all four tires. In short any increased wear is so small that you shouldn't worry about it. If the fronts wear out a lot faster than the rears there is probably another issue like tire spin under acceleration. Durability overall is at least as good as the gear diff. maybe even better.
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:02 PM   #2439
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So the wear on the steel out drives is better. Is the part number for those out drives sak-65a/v2?

How do you feel about moving the Front drive shaft to the back and using the SSK drive shafts in the front?

Can this be done?
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Old 02-17-2013, 05:09 PM   #2440
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How do you feel about moving the Front drive shaft to the back and using the SSK drive shafts in the front?

Can this be done?
Yes
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:19 PM   #2441
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I am loving this build. If I could post photos, I would. Just something I learned is that tapping all the holes prior to assembly will save your hands, and your screw heads. A few areas that call for 10mm long screws work better with 8mm instead. Also, I am using a standard tapered tap. Don't run it all the way in. I have been putting about 2 to 2.5 turns of tap into the holes so that the screw still gets tight towards the end. This should help screws from loosening too much later on. I am impressed by the quality and especially the precision of the kit and its parts.
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:21 PM   #2442
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I ran a Parma Mohawk body and the car was planted. Worked great.

Indeed they are great bodies...
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Old 02-17-2013, 06:34 PM   #2443
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If you use the spool heavyduty drive cups do you still need the pink metal rings that come with the plastic cups
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Old 02-17-2013, 07:33 PM   #2444
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just done a few upgrades on the zero I put front solid axle and some new alloy oil dampers. I have gone 64 mph with a tune and using standard gears gonna try some different gears hopefully will go a bit faster
what motor, battery and esc do you run with?
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Old 02-17-2013, 11:00 PM   #2445
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If you use the spool heavyduty drive cups do you still need the pink metal rings that come with the plastic cups
The part number for the outdrives is Sak 09 HD and you will not need the pink cups.
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