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Old 01-14-2013, 03:11 PM   #2326
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Yeah the motor does get hot. I installed a 3 racing heatsink and fan...how do you know when it's too hot..i have nothing to get the actual temp .is there another method
Touch a finger to the motor and cout 1001,1002 your okay. If it comes out 1001, OHHH $%#* then the motor is running to hot. Not trying to be a smartass here this actually works. If you can keep your finger on it for a count of a least three seconds the temp on average is around 150* The shorter the count the hoter the motor, but as stated earlier the best way is a good cheap temp sensor.
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:01 PM   #2327
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You do need to move the hole where the root arm normally mounts to by 3mm centre to centre rearward on a zero chassis. Here's a pic installed in my hybrid:



Part number is SAK-X24/PK
what exactly are u talking about moving root arm hole? I would realy like to use this setup like the idea of easier to change spur gear.
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Old 01-14-2013, 07:18 PM   #2328
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what exactly are u talking about moving root arm hole? I would realy like to use this setup like the idea of easier to change spur gear.
I'll snap a photo when I get home that shows what you need to do. But the xi based chassis has the motor mount moved 3mm from where it is on the zero. But the only hole that doesn't line up is the motor mount root arm, which is the arm that attaches to the vmm's, and takes the motor top screw, which also screws into the chassis.

So if you use a xi mount on a zero you need to move it 3mm one way, or if you use a zero mount on an xi it goes 3mm the other way. Like I said I'll snap a photo when I get home which shows my (poorly) drilled and counter sunk hole from when I had the zero vmm on the xi chassis.
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Old 01-14-2013, 08:00 PM   #2329
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thanks that will be big help
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
I'll snap a photo when I get home that shows what you need to do. But the xi based chassis has the motor mount moved 3mm from where it is on the zero. But the only hole that doesn't line up is the motor mount root arm, which is the arm that attaches to the vmm's, and takes the motor top screw, which also screws into the chassis.

So if you use a xi mount on a zero you need to move it 3mm one way, or if you use a zero mount on an xi it goes 3mm the other way. Like I said I'll snap a photo when I get home which shows my (poorly) drilled and counter sunk hole from when I had the zero vmm on the xi chassis.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:59 AM   #2330
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thanks that will be big help
Sorry its so late. Here's the photo.



As you can see, there's a new hole a few mm forward of the motor mount root arm mounting hole. The car currently has a xi mount on an xi chassis. The hole further forward is for a zero mount on the xi chassis. So for an xi mount on a zero chassis, you need to make a new hole 3mm rearward of the stock hole. Does that make sense?
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Old 01-15-2013, 06:29 AM   #2331
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
As you can see, there's a new hole a few mm forward of the motor mount root arm mounting hole. The car currently has a xi mount on an xi chassis. The hole further forward is for a zero mount on the xi chassis. So for an xi mount on a zero chassis, you need to make a new hole 3mm rearward of the stock hole. Does that make sense?
Yes it makes sense, you just want to be spot on the line when you drill the new hole though, a couple of mm out either way could end up twisting the lower deck?

Oh and an update on my problem. I'm not sure if this is a definitive answer or not as I need to test my theory out some more.
It could possibly be the gears that I'm using that are causing the noise.
I put a new spur & pinion gear in the car earlier today, and testing at a track tonight resulted in a quiet and silky smooth drive train.

Now here's my theory - The other gears I am trying to use have either had little or moderate use in a Tamiya TA05. As the TA05 has the motor in front of the spur gear and the pinion gear has to be reversed, ie grub screw side goes towards the outer end of the motor shaft, I'm believing that the way the gears wear in the ta05 cause the noise and binding feeling due the wear attributes on the teeth face are different between the 2 cars.

There may be still a slight problem with the motor mount as the gears are the most silent when only the bottom motor screw is tightened up, this is not ideal but could explain the binding feeling and added to that the different wear on the face other the teeth causing the noise.

Anyway it now seems like I am moving forward on nailing this problem so I'll do some more testing on the weekend and post updates on my findings.

Cheers
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:58 PM   #2332
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Default upgrade for servo saver

hi all just got a zero s but found that the servo saver keep slipping after a while. . is there any upgrade or should i go with generic alu arm without protection?
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:02 PM   #2333
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kimbrough heavy duty or x ray heavy duty work well i did the alu arm thing and lost 3 servo's in 4 runs
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Old 01-16-2013, 10:29 PM   #2334
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hi all just got a zero s but found that the servo saver keep slipping after a while. . is there any upgrade or should i go with generic alu arm without protection?
A Tamiya high torque servo works well too. http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=1040
Using a aluminum arm without protection is a bad idea as mentioned above.

Tamiya also makes the alloy outer part of the servo so you can have it protected and minimise the flex from the standard plastic one. http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....oducts_id=4983

Cheers
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Old 01-17-2013, 07:20 AM   #2335
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thanks bro
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:18 AM   #2336
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Correct me if I'm wrong and let me know if I'm right. Alipo battery with a higher c rating will deliver more current which in turn will equal more speed?
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:38 AM   #2337
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Correct me if I'm wrong and let me know if I'm right. Alipo battery with a higher c rating will deliver more current which in turn will equal more speed?
In theory yes. what you will probably notice most is that the pack doesn't get weak or "fall off" late into the race. A higher c rating will be more consistent over a 6,8, or even 10 minute race provided you have enough milliamps to make the required run time.
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Old 01-19-2013, 06:52 AM   #2338
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In theory yes. what you will probably notice most is that the pack doesn't get weak or "fall off" late into the race. A higher c rating will be more consistent over a 6,8, or even 10 minute race provided you have enough milliamps to make the required run time.
ok. thanx
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:21 AM   #2339
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Hi guys, I'm trying to get a FDR of 4.8 or close in my Sak S, changed the center pulley to 21t with stock spur 80t and pinion of 30t. The problem now is the belts (522t front & 171t rear) are so tight. Any compatible belt that I can replace to overcome this problem?
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Old 01-22-2013, 06:30 AM   #2340
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Hi guys, I'm trying to get a FDR of 4.8 or close in my Sak S, changed the center pulley to 21t with stock spur 80t and pinion of 30t. The problem now is the belts (522t front & 171t rear) are so tight. Any compatible belt that I can replace to overcome this problem?
The stock center pulleys are 20T and even at that the belts are tight. Most racers have opted for the 19T center pulleys along with the alloy spur gear adapter. You've gone the wrong way.
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