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Old 01-11-2013, 01:19 PM   #2296
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I have changed the stock center pulley to the hopup part. Originally with the 19T and have been running for a long time. I have now changed to the originalsize 20T of the hopup part. But after running for just some minutes the rear connected center pulley have been almost eaten up.... here is a picture.


What have gone wrong? The belt pushes the pulleys outwards, but as this has been working I find it strange. Also the leftside works great. It is also been adjusted as loose as possible, and as close to the 19 pulley as I could come.

Also, what can I do now? I don't have another pulley 20T. Could I put back the 19T on the right side, or do I have to change both?
Everyone recommends the 19t pullies because it's next to impossible to get the belts loose enough using 20t pullies. Too tight belts can cause all kinds of issues.

You *can* run with different sized pulleys but you'll end up with one set of wheels being driven faster than the other -- which end will be faster will depend on where you put the pulleys. Drifters make the back wheels spin faster to make it easier to get the rear loose. Crawlers make the front wheels spin faster to tighten the turning radius (they don't use belt drive, but same idea). I doubt you'd want to do it in a car you're racing. You really want all the wheels being driven at the same speed.

Make sure there isn't anything in there. Clean it out good.

You could have had a rock or something similar get stuck in there to wear the edge of the pulley off.

Your rear belt looks wider in the pics than the front belt. It's hard to tell from just pics but is it the correct belt?

Basically, get new 19T pulleys and replace both sides.
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Old 01-11-2013, 01:45 PM   #2297
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I have only been driving indoor after mounting it, and mostly on my workbench to heat the motor. Been on for 1 day. I have changed to a smaller pinion to cope with a heat issue. I had to take out the spure to change that, so I changed to the 20T as that was original. Guess I will change back to my 19T pulleys on both sides then.
My D3 have different speeds, so I know the idea.

It is infact the original belt on both front and rear, so it is not that much used.
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:44 PM   #2298
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Originally Posted by Anthias View Post
What have gone wrong? The belt pushes the pulleys outwards, but as this has been working I find it strange. Also the leftside works great. It is also been adjusted as loose as possible, and as close to the 19 pulley as I could come.

Also, what can I do now? I don't have another pulley 20T. Could I put back the 19T on the right side, or do I have to change both?
Are you sure you put both screws back in? It looks like the pulley shaft is only being held on the left side but not the right side. Did you put one shim on each side of the pulley shaft before putting the screws in, as shown in the manual?

I would change both pulleys, or buy a replacement 20T. If you put a different sized pulley on each side, your front and rear wheels will be turning different speeds. Without a center differential, I'd expect it to handle really poorly.

But you should really figure out what caused that problem so it doesn't happen again after you replace the pulley.

Alan
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Old 01-11-2013, 03:05 PM   #2299
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Both screws are there, one purple and one steel shim on each side. The picture lies a bit as the pulley is eaten up and pushed back in.
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Old 01-11-2013, 06:48 PM   #2300
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It appears to me that you do not have the cams in the rear diff equal and it is cocked to the left. That will cause the belt to ride to the right and up on the spur hub but yes you should be able to put the 19 tooth hubs back on. Don"t see any reason why you couldn"t.
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:11 PM   #2301
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Originally Posted by FauxMako View Post
Everyone recommends the 19t pullies because it's next to impossible to get the belts loose enough using 20t pullies. Too tight belts can cause all kinds of issues.

You *can* run with different sized pulleys but you'll end up with one set of wheels being driven faster than the other -- which end will be faster will depend on where you put the pulleys. Drifters make the back wheels spin faster to make it easier to get the rear loose. Crawlers make the front wheels spin faster to tighten the turning radius (they don't use belt drive, but same idea). I doubt you'd want to do it in a car you're racing. You really want all the wheels being driven at the same speed.

Make sure there isn't anything in there. Clean it out good.

You could have had a rock or something similar get stuck in there to wear the edge of the pulley off.

Your rear belt looks wider in the pics than the front belt. It's hard to tell from just pics but is it the correct belt?

Basically, get new 19T pulleys and replace both sides.
How loose should the belt be?..so adjusting the differentials per the manual is too tight on the belt?
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Old 01-11-2013, 07:46 PM   #2302
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Question..i run my zero s with the castle side winder sv2 and neu castle 4pole 6900kv brushless..i was using the stock spur and a 22t pinion...i just received my 72t spur and i have a 34t pinion..do you guys think that's too aggressive for my motor and esc...(5000mah 2s lipo 20c)
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Old 01-12-2013, 06:01 AM   #2303
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With a little bit of dremel work and fitting a smaller spur gear I've managed to squeeze a 43 tooth pinon on.

Cheers
Rob.
What motor and esc are you using and what speeds do you get?
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:10 AM   #2304
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How loose should the belt be?..so adjusting the differentials per the manual is too tight on the belt?
The belt should flex a couple of mm up and down. Belts stretch over time, your chassis may not have the same cam orientation as shown in the manual. As the other poster said if your diff is crooked then it will cause issues.
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:06 PM   #2305
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Default Considering this kit

I am in the market for a new kit. Ran across this one and know very little about the brand.

Read a few reviews and kinda interested at the price point. I have owned a tc3 and xray T2 prior. Wasn't a fan of the TC3 but loved the T2. At the price point I can buy 4 1/2 of these for one of the new kits out (t4, tcxx, tc6.1)

Of the kits out there, how does it compare to the expensive kits?
Is it a fun build to maintain?
How expensive are parts?
Will I be buying lots of spares for breaks and wish I just bought a premium kit?
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:27 PM   #2306
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Originally Posted by butrflynlambie View Post
I am in the market for a new kit. Ran across this one and know very little about the brand.

Read a few reviews and kinda interested at the price point. I have owned a tc3 and xray T2 prior. Wasn't a fan of the TC3 but loved the T2. At the price point I can buy 4 1/2 of these for one of the new kits out (t4, tcxx, tc6.1)

Of the kits out there, how does it compare to the expensive kits?
Is it a fun build to maintain?
How expensive are parts?
Will I be buying lots of spares for breaks and wish I just bought a premium kit?
Parts are very cheap, and it's fun imo I'm not familiar with other brands but i.ve seen the more experienced guys mention that it stands up to and sometimes beats the way more expensive kits on the track
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:19 PM   #2307
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Hi all,

Looking for a little information and help with my sakura zero.
It originally started out as a Zero S but I was given 90% of the parts to upgrade it to a Zero with all the alloy & carbon fibre upper & lower decks.

The problem I am having is when any motor is bolted in, it makes a terrible grinding noise, runs slowly and the motors come off very hot.
I have gone through the whole car making sure no bearings are stiff or seized, drive shafts free and greased lightly, and nothing is catching or rubbing against anything.
When there is no motor in the car the drive train is free and very smooth, I have tried 4 different motors and different combinations of spur & pinon gears, but the problem still exists.
I can bolt the motors and the gears into my other car and it runs quickly, quietly & smoothly.

When I was building the car I needed to buy a vertical motor mount for it, as I was going to race it in blinky class racing which require the use of smaller spur gears.
The mount that I got for it was part number #SAK-S17/PK which is for the Zero S model car.
The lower CF deck I am using is from a alloy & CF spec Zero. Have I used the wrong motor mount and should have got the #SAK-66/V2/PK version 2 motor mount?

Apart from the above problem I really like the car for it's handling characteristics, but the problem is driving me nuts as I can't find anything else that could be wrong, and others have suggested there is something wrong with the motor mount.
I am also using 19thooth pulleys so the belts are not tight.
So any help, hints, suggestions would be very appreciated as I have been struggling with this problem since I got the car, and am all but giving up hope on it.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 01-12-2013, 09:46 PM   #2308
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
Hi all,

Looking for a little information and help with my sakura zero.
It originally started out as a Zero S but I was given 90% of the parts to upgrade it to a Zero with all the alloy & carbon fibre upper & lower decks.

The problem I am having is when any motor is bolted in, it makes a terrible grinding noise, runs slowly and the motors come off very hot.
I have gone through the whole car making sure no bearings are stiff or seized, drive shafts free and greased lightly, and nothing is catching or rubbing against anything.
When there is no motor in the car the drive train is free and very smooth, I have tried 4 different motors and different combinations of spur & pinon gears, but the problem still exists.
I can bolt the motors and the gears into my other car and it runs quickly, quietly & smoothly.

When I was building the car I needed to buy a vertical motor mount for it, as I was going to race it in blinky class racing which require the use of smaller spur gears.
The mount that I got for it was part number #SAK-S17/PK which is for the Zero S model car.
The lower CF deck I am using is from a alloy & CF spec Zero. Have I used the wrong motor mount and should have got the #SAK-66/V2/PK version 2 motor mount?

Apart from the above problem I really like the car for it's handling characteristics, but the problem is driving me nuts as I can't find anything else that could be wrong, and others have suggested there is something wrong with the motor mount.
I am also using 19thooth pulleys so the belts are not tight.
So any help, hints, suggestions would be very appreciated as I have been struggling with this problem since I got the car, and am all but giving up hope on it.

Cheers
Rob.
Just a couple of questions for you first.

1) What motor/timing are you running
2) What is your Gearing
3) What type of Tires are you running
4) What type of track are you running
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:10 PM   #2309
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Originally Posted by jdeadman View Post
Just a couple of questions for you first.

1) What motor/timing are you running
2) What is your Gearing
3) What type of Tires are you running
4) What type of track are you running
1) Reedy 21.5 40degree's
2) 62mm roll out
3) Rubber - Ride 32 red
4) Small track, low grip concrete.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 01-12-2013, 10:43 PM   #2310
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Check the 19t pulleys, mine made a terrible noise similar to what you described, under hard accelleration, it was the belt slipping/jumping over the pulleys and in the end there were no teeth left on the pulleys, i have since gone back to the 20t pulleys as the 19t is just too loose especially after the belts stretch/wear in a little, everyone swears by the 19t but they must be using there car for vta/blinky class, with boost you'll want the belt abit tighter imo
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