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Old 01-08-2013, 10:14 PM   #2281
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futaba 9551 savox 1251 savox 1257 and use the heaviest servo saver you can get and make sure everything is tight and nothing is moving around
turn down you expo if your radio offers it
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:52 AM   #2282
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what should be an ugrades for my xi Ver.Dh, i use Bullistrom 120A (copy of xerun V2.1) with 11.5R speedpassion v3, which better gear diff or solid for front,, anyhelps should be apreciated..
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Old 01-09-2013, 03:51 AM   #2283
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Savox SC1257TG
Fast,strong and good price.
Use a good servosaver tho, as this is the major problem on the stock Zero S

regards Roy


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Can anyone recommend a servo that won't start making turns on it's own at high speeds? Oh yeah at a gooooood price..it's very hard to know your driving capabilities with a crappy servo..
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:24 PM   #2284
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Originally Posted by azeroth View Post
futaba 9551 savox 1251 savox 1257 and use the heaviest servo saver you can get and make sure everything is tight and nothing is moving around
turn down you expo if your radio offers it
expo? can u explain..
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Old 01-09-2013, 05:25 PM   #2285
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and by the way ...thx for the replies.. i think i will try the savox servo.. ive already changed the servo saver..so it has to b the servo itself
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:02 PM   #2286
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if these servos are digital dont forget to use a glitch buster.
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and by the way ...thx for the replies.. i think i will try the savox servo.. ive already changed the servo saver..so it has to b the servo itself
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:02 PM   #2287
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exponential sorry for the miss spelling but i slow the servo movement for the amount of steering input on some radio's it is listed as arc it removes sensitivety from small steering input faster servo's with make it feel twichy like minor line corrections at speed on my cheapo ace cougar i have to trick the system to reduce the sensitivety around 0 input by turning the endpoints all the way up then dialing back the arc to - 40 and dial back the dual rate until the steering is not bound up a full lock on my JR i set the endpoints as the should be and just back down the exponential until it feels right not to sudden around center one could also do it by using a inner hole on the servo saver
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Old 01-10-2013, 03:57 AM   #2288
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I'm sorry to sound like a complete numpty but I'm struggling to find the rear arms for a Sakura XI. I look online and look in manuals and the rear arms for XI and S appear to be the same. They also seem to have the same part number SAKX01.

Also, as I can't find these arms I was thinking of using the narrow suspension mounts on the rear. If I do this do I need to get the shorter shafts? 44mm rather than 46mm.

And finally, if I get a TRF416 rear suspension mount and use the front bulkhead covers, do I also have to change the shocks? I have the allly shocks on my S.
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:01 PM   #2289
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i keep hearing about a "gyro" what is it and what does it do?
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Old 01-10-2013, 05:36 PM   #2290
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Arms are the same now a days.
if you gonna use the narrow suspensionmounts it is better to use the shorter shafts.
You can run the alloy shocks with the TRF416 conversion but i would recommend the -1 shock platforms/spring retainers.
This will help you get the low ride heigth.

Regards Roy


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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I'm sorry to sound like a complete numpty but I'm struggling to find the rear arms for a Sakura XI. I look online and look in manuals and the rear arms for XI and S appear to be the same. They also seem to have the same part number SAKX01.

Also, as I can't find these arms I was thinking of using the narrow suspension mounts on the rear. If I do this do I need to get the shorter shafts? 44mm rather than 46mm.

And finally, if I get a TRF416 rear suspension mount and use the front bulkhead covers, do I also have to change the shocks? I have the allly shocks on my S.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:35 PM   #2291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I'm sorry to sound like a complete numpty but I'm struggling to find the rear arms for a Sakura XI. I look online and look in manuals and the rear arms for XI and S appear to be the same. They also seem to have the same part number SAKX01.

Also, as I can't find these arms I was thinking of using the narrow suspension mounts on the rear. If I do this do I need to get the shorter shafts? 44mm rather than 46mm.

And finally, if I get a TRF416 rear suspension mount and use the front bulkhead covers, do I also have to change the shocks? I have the allly shocks on my S.
SAKX01 are the X1 shorter arms, if you use dogbones they will still fit otherwise get 44mm uni's, go for the X1 rear shock tower they are built to work with 3racing shocks
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Old 01-11-2013, 04:30 AM   #2292
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i keep hearing about a "gyro" what is it and what does it do?
Some seem to think that a gyro increases stability. Especially in an off road vehicle. I can't comment because I never tried one but they are illegal to use in almost every racing class. IMO your money would be better spent on other aspects of the car.
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:38 AM   #2293
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Is there a way to adjust rear toe individually? My car has rear toe in on the left at 2.5 and the right is 2.0. How do I adjust both to 2.0 or 2.25 maybe. Is there enough slop in the screw holes to finagle the hinge pin blocks?
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Old 01-11-2013, 10:02 AM   #2294
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Check hinge pins if there not bend.
Swap suspension arms to see if it switches to the other side.
If so it is the arms fault, if not, loosen both front and rear suspension blocks and rear to the right and front to the left and tighten.
After that check again.

regards Roy


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Is there a way to adjust rear toe individually? My car has rear toe in on the left at 2.5 and the right is 2.0. How do I adjust both to 2.0 or 2.25 maybe. Is there enough slop in the screw holes to finagle the hinge pin blocks?
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:57 PM   #2295
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I have changed the stock center pulley to the hopup part. Originally with the 19T and have been running for a long time. I have now changed to the originalsize 20T of the hopup part. But after running for just some minutes the rear connected center pulley have been almost eaten up.... here is a picture.


What have gone wrong? The belt pushes the pulleys outwards, but as this has been working I find it strange. Also the leftside works great. It is also been adjusted as loose as possible, and as close to the 19 pulley as I could come.

Also, what can I do now? I don't have another pulley 20T. Could I put back the 19T on the right side, or do I have to change both?
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