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Old 12-26-2012, 01:48 PM   #2251
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1: Yes the ssk are a direct replacement on the front and will take some chatter out of the front on hard turns. 2: You do not have two swap out the arm mounts but you will have to get the shorter rear axles. these arms are shorter than the s arms. 3: You could do that but IMO you would be better off getting the aluminum replacement parts. 4: The Sakura s chassis will have a lot more flex than the Xi chassis, It is made from graphite and has different flex characteristics. And HAPPY NEW YEAR!
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Old 12-26-2012, 09:45 PM   #2252
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[QUOTE=shadowracer24;11592728]Check the clearance on the servo saver and the top deck too. My servo has a long output shaft on it and the linkage was hitting the top deck just enough to hang the steering up. Took a little off the top deck and works just fine now. Drove me nuts for weeks trying to figure that out, looked fine on the bench but under load on the track the chassis would flex and then it would hangup.[/QUOT

i just checked that... thats not it for me.. were u using the stock servo saver? what if i get a servo arm? and as far as it going to the right while its accelerating.... do you yhink it could be the rear diff?

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Old 12-27-2012, 02:56 PM   #2253
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Hmmmmm! You got me stumped on that one. I have the stock servo saver on mine and have not had one single problem with it. When you put it together did you use all the springs it came with? I think it had two silvers and a gold, pain in the butt to get them in there but it will go. If you are pulling under accelleration all I can think of is 1: maybe you are getting a heavy amp draw and it is causing the servo to momentarally brown out. 2: there must be something binding in the right front axle or bearing that would make it pull that way. Sorry I can"t be more helpful but without actually seeing what it is doing its hard to diagnose.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:37 PM   #2254
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Originally Posted by shadowracer24 View Post
Check the clearance on the servo saver and the top deck too. My servo has a long output shaft on it and the linkage was hitting the top deck just enough to hang the steering up. Took a little off the top deck and works just fine now. Drove me nuts for weeks trying to figure that out, looked fine on the bench but under load on the track the chassis would flex and then it would hangup.[/QUOT

i just checked that... thats not it for me.. were u using the stock servo saver? what if i get a servo arm? and as far as it going to the right while its accelerating.... do you yhink it could be the rear diff?
It could easily be the diff. The plastic used through out the car is pretty cheap and very soft. If you over tighten the screw into the diff it will deform and bind up the gears internally which could cause it to pull one way or another under acceleration.
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Old 12-30-2012, 05:07 PM   #2255
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Default just gotta say

been racing my zero all fall and now I am running in top 5 with my pretty stock zero. starting to get noticed guys asking what it is.gotta love it.someday plan on adding some aluminum parts dont really need to but some of the plastic parts will need replaced some screws dont tighten up... but any how go zero lol
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Old 12-31-2012, 06:26 AM   #2256
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Default Sakura Zero

Hello guys,

New guy here, just want to ask if 48p spur 80t is working properly with 32t pinion..?
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:22 AM   #2257
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I had to swap over to 64 pitch gear to get the fdr I wanted.
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:49 AM   #2258
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Hello guys,

New guy here, just want to ask if 48p spur 80t is working properly with 32t pinion..?
The motor mount won't allow a 32..i tried the same thing at first. Not sure if the vertical motor mount allows is though.i use a 22t for now, planning on going up 2 teeth at a time... Try ordering a lower tooth spur.i just ordered a72t 3 racing spur on ebay.I'm sure the 32 well fit then.they have a wide selection of different sizes on ebay just search for 3racing spur.their 3.80 plus 4 shipping
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Old 01-01-2013, 06:54 AM   #2259
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Originally Posted by buckeye dan View Post
been racing my zero all fall and now I am running in top 5 with my pretty stock zero. starting to get noticed guys asking what it is.gotta love it.someday plan on adding some aluminum parts dont really need to but some of the plastic parts will need replaced some screws dont tighten up... but any how go zero lol
Nice.post a pic. Or video.i"d love to see
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Old 01-01-2013, 02:06 PM   #2260
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I used the verticle mount with a 34. That's the biggest I could squeeze.
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Old 01-02-2013, 02:54 PM   #2261
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when i hit the throttle from a dead stop it pushes to the right every time.
why is this and how can i correct it?[/QUOTE]


Mine used to pull to the side from a stand still until i balanced the car left to right, my electrics were heavier than my lipo so i moved the lipo over to the very edge of the chassis, got it within 2grams to the other side and now it pulls straight
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Old 01-03-2013, 11:24 AM   #2262
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when i hit the throttle from a dead stop it pushes to the right every time.
why is this and how can i correct it?

Mine used to pull to the side from a stand still until i balanced the car left to right, my electrics were heavier than my lipo so i moved the lipo over to the very edge of the chassis, got it within 2grams to the other side and now it pulls straight[/QUOTE]

thats probably it for me my lipo is very heavy(cheap) how can i balance that? thx
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:02 PM   #2263
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Hi.

I drive a Zero S with a 3.5T engine. The engine runs a bit hot, even if I am not one of the fastest on the track. I am running a 80 spur and 23 pinion. I also have changed to 19 on the two center pullys.

Should I use a smaller or larger pinion to get the engine to run cooler? The ESC is running cool.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:08 PM   #2264
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Smaller pinion to cool your motor.

By the way a motor is electric. An engine is fuel powered.
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Old 01-03-2013, 12:29 PM   #2265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonspit View Post
Mine used to pull to the side from a stand still until i balanced the car left to right, my electrics were heavier than my lipo so i moved the lipo over to the very edge of the chassis, got it within 2grams to the other side and now it pulls straight
thats probably it for me my lipo is very heavy(cheap) how can i balance that? thx[/QUOTE]

Chances are your lipo is lighter than the motor esc and reciever usually you use digital scales under each wheel and the weight left to right should be even amount same goes for front to back although mine is not. quick way to check if you dont have scales is to put a small screw driver in each centre hole in the shock towers and lift the car up, i bet it leans toward the electrics side
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