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Old 12-02-2012, 07:08 AM   #2176
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Yes you have to flip the diffs and belts for the vert. mount. If you still have the stock topdeck you will also have to do a little dremel work to clear the mount.
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Old 12-02-2012, 07:35 AM   #2177
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if I get the carbon top deck wil it work
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Old 12-02-2012, 09:47 AM   #2178
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Yes it will but it is not really needed. You only have to remove enough material to clear the vertical mount where it connects to the top of the motor and even that is not very much. Just take off a little at a time until you have it where you want it. Even with the graphite top deck I had to remove a little material to get the clearences I needed.
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Old 12-02-2012, 10:47 AM   #2179
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Thanks
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Old 12-03-2012, 03:28 PM   #2180
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I am in the process of rebuilding the shocks on my car. The kit ones have leaked so I have bought the ally ones. I also bought the kit tuning springs. I am going to build with 30wt oil with 5.75 on the front and 6.5 on the rear. I am also going to add 1mm to the top link at the bulkhead on the rear. I am hoping this should help with my rear grip issues.

I have also bought all the bits for a ball diff so was wondering if I should put it in the rear of the car. I have 40wt oil in the rear and 1:1 multi purpose grease in the front.
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Old 12-03-2012, 05:43 PM   #2181
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You lack rear grip?
Or have to much steering?
Lack of rear grip is easy.
Convert the rear to the XI arms so you get a narrower rear thread.
Works perfect
Ally shocks, build them with 2 o-rings and look for the TRF piston guide and pistons(3 hole), less play and better working shock
Use allround 35WT oil and go for the same springs as the Tamiya White front and Yellow rear.
Don't go for the ball dif if you lack grip at the rear but use the geardiff with 80WT oil in it(40 wt is to thin it will leak)
Indeed raise the inner camber links for more rear grip.
Lower them at the front to get less steering.
Ride height front 5mm and rear 5.5.
Toe in rear at 2.5 or 3 and camber also on 2.5 or 3.
Front diff use cleaning putty in it.
You leave some movement in it so the drivetrain gets less beating but it almost works as a spool.
You can also convert the rear suspension to the TRF416 mod as this will give you more grip and good responce on changes.
You need the alloy front bulkhead covers and TRF416WE or X suspension bridge.

Regards Roy


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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I am in the process of rebuilding the shocks on my car. The kit ones have leaked so I have bought the ally ones. I also bought the kit tuning springs. I am going to build with 30wt oil with 5.75 on the front and 6.5 on the rear. I am also going to add 1mm to the top link at the bulkhead on the rear. I am hoping this should help with my rear grip issues.

I have also bought all the bits for a ball diff so was wondering if I should put it in the rear of the car. I have 40wt oil in the rear and 1:1 multi purpose grease in the front.
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Old 12-03-2012, 06:28 PM   #2182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I am in the process of rebuilding the shocks on my car. The kit ones have leaked so I have bought the ally ones. I also bought the kit tuning springs. I am going to build with 30wt oil with 5.75 on the front and 6.5 on the rear. I am also going to add 1mm to the top link at the bulkhead on the rear. I am hoping this should help with my rear grip issues.

I have also bought all the bits for a ball diff so was wondering if I should put it in the rear of the car. I have 40wt oil in the rear and 1:1 multi purpose grease in the front.
Also when you rebuild your shocks use Tamiya seals in the top of your shocks to stop the oil leaking from the top.



Pro10noob,

Thanks for that information, I will note that down along with other advice I have been given with this car.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 12-03-2012, 08:32 PM   #2183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I am in the process of rebuilding the shocks on my car. The kit ones have leaked so I have bought the ally ones. I also bought the kit tuning springs. I am going to build with 30wt oil with 5.75 on the front and 6.5 on the rear. I am also going to add 1mm to the top link at the bulkhead on the rear. I am hoping this should help with my rear grip issues.

I have also bought all the bits for a ball diff so was wondering if I should put it in the rear of the car. I have 40wt oil in the rear and 1:1 multi purpose grease in the front.
Just put the ball diff in mine. Absolutely love it. Just keep it clean. I'm done with gear diff for good. For the front locking with grease or putty is good to start but switch to the solid axle. with less rotating mass you will see a difference in acceleration.
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:18 AM   #2184
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I've just recently purchased two gear differential units and mounted them into my sedan. Now, this isn't a 3racing sedan this is an Atlas YM-34 series (similar to the HB cyclone). Anyway, i mounted the diff into the car and i noticed the out-drives wobbling (not running true). What could be the causes of this? The differential cams are cnc'd machined and are placed inside the bulkheads properly. No visible signs of damage to the bearings. However, I am wondering if the plastic output moulding on the differential unit aren't perfectly true. I say this because the bearings are difficult to get on and off the outputs. Maybe I should take some 600 grit paper and sand the outputs a little.

What do you think?
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Old 12-04-2012, 05:54 PM   #2185
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so what did everyone use for the spur gear i just completely destroyed a 64 pitch with a 7.5 motor looking to go with a 48 pitch
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:02 AM   #2186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pro10noob View Post
Ally shocks, build them with 2 o-rings and look for the TRF piston guide and pistons(3 hole),
Do you mean 2 o rings in the bottom of the shock body?

Won't that make the shaft too stiff?
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:37 AM   #2187
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I always use the X-pattern O-rings from Kyosho.
Works like a charm.
No binding at all, very smooth and no leaking.
Do the same with my TRF416X.
It also slows down the wear on the shock shaft.

regards Roy

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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Do you mean 2 o rings in the bottom of the shock body?

Won't that make the shaft too stiff?
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Old 12-05-2012, 08:52 AM   #2188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by strrick View Post
so what did everyone use for the spur gear i just completely destroyed a 64 pitch with a 7.5 motor looking to go with a 48 pitch
64 pitch should be more than strong enough for any motor it all depends on how your gear mesh was and did your motor move during the race.

I setup my mesh so the gear will only ever sooooo slightly tick when i hold one and move the other back and forth for the tightest part of the spur

Also to stop the motor from moving away from the spur you can do the following

When choosing your gear ratio since I hate it when my motor moves (usually towards the front in a crash) I will choose my gears so that the motor is close to the forward position as possible.

To do this I first Choose the FDR I want say 4. for the Zero I would start with a 96/45 and see if that fits in ( you might have to dremel the top plate to allow a large pinion depending on how wide it is)

Now depending on where the motor is for this setup you may need to go up or down spur sizes to get it closer to then end of the motor adjusters.


You can also measure using vernier calipers the max distance between the center of the spur and the center for the motor shaft and get a better ratio off the hop.
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Old 12-07-2012, 10:44 PM   #2189
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Default Wheels and tires

I am not that familiar with on road cars, but I have some simple questions.

First, what wheel choices do I have for the Sakura? I couldn't find any Sakura specific brand replacement wheels. Looking for a part number and manufacturer.

Second, looking for a great tire that can be used for toying around outside in the driveway and in street. What tire would you recommend?

Third, what is the stock wheel width? For 190mm bodies, what width is recommended?

Any other insight for wheels and tire choices would be helpful.

Thanks!!
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Old 12-07-2012, 11:22 PM   #2190
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Tagging this thread to give it a read over when I have more time. I recently came back into RC and saw a budget racer article on RCDriver or XRC using one of these machines and became quite curious. Since then I see a few of these accessory makers are now making race type touring cars, very interesting.

I really enjoyed using 3R upgrades on my vehicles before so I wouldn't mind giving this a try if I can find somewhere to race.

Is it based off of any other designs or is it a fresh ground up package?
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