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Old 10-30-2012, 09:04 PM   #2146
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Yup brand new tires. Any tricks or tips to gluing them up? A few locals have complained of having issues getting them glued good. I haven't even glued mine yet.
Get them seated firmly on the rim. start by gluing the inside bead of the tire. pull back the side wall and place a drop of tire glue on the rim where the tire sits in the groove. settle the tire back into the groove and move down the bead and repeat. Don't worry about getting the whole tire in one pass. you can always go back and glue any spots you missed. when the inside is dry move onto the outside.

I use a medium thickness super glue for my tires. it gives you a little more working time than thin glue and it won't run as bad. its still super fast but not as fast as thin. I also use rubber bands to help hold the tire firmly seated to the rim while the glue sets. they make special bands for rc tires but a nice thick rubber band will work fine.

hope this helps.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:06 PM   #2147
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What I do is sand anywhere you are going to put glue then get the tire on the rim and then make sure the beads are seated in the groves.

Take a fine point tool (like dental tools) and just ever so slightly pull up the outer lip and put glue under it working your way around the rim. set down and do the rest of the tires.

Do the rear like normal tire by just pushing with your thumb and put the glue under the bead.

after they set check the edges for any spots that got missed and reapply where needed. For the first few outings Check the tires after each race.
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Old 10-30-2012, 09:08 PM   #2148
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Must be nice to check your tires for the first few outings. my tread only lasts a few outings.
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Old 10-31-2012, 04:25 AM   #2149
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Originally Posted by shadowracer24 View Post
Yes that is what he is talking about. If they are not set even on both sides they put a twist in the diff which will bind up bearings, shafts, belts and cause all kinds of problems. If those are not right that may be what is causing all of your problems.
i checked to see if they were set even and they are.
the diffs still wobble strange??
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Old 10-31-2012, 06:54 AM   #2150
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Are the outdrives correctly seated in the diff body (and don't wobble) and are both halves of the diff properly screwed together. I know it sounds silly but I'm just trying to think of anything that might cause the diff to behave that way.

Have you disassembled it and made sure that everything was put together correctly? The o-ring present and with correct number of shims?

A video or even some pictures might help.
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Old 11-05-2012, 04:02 AM   #2151
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Just an update for anyone running a boosted 10.5 or lower it would be better to run the 20 tooth pulley because with the 19 tooth the belt is too loose and it slips causing the teeth on the pulley to wear out, mine have almost no teeth left so im going back to the 20, i even had a belt tensioner but possibly the damage was done before i fitted it
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Old 11-05-2012, 06:25 AM   #2152
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Default tc6 battery holder

Hi everyone,
I saw earlier in the thread about using the tc6 battery holder on the sakura narrow graphite chassis. If anyone knows can someone please advise which screw locations are used?

Cheers,
Patrick
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:03 AM   #2153
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Good morning to everybody, my name is Vincent, I'am new at this forum and I would like to know the weight of th car all included les the battery, thank you.
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Old 11-06-2012, 05:37 PM   #2154
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Good morning to everybody, my name is Vincent, I'am new at this forum and I would like to know the weight of th car all included les the battery, thank you.
Unless someone happens to have a fresh out of the box built chassis it'll be hard to get this kind of measurement. Electronics differences, actual weight added to make class minimums, wheel/tire differences, etc. all make it almost impossible to compare weights "apples to apples." Plus, with all the inexpensive alloy and carbon fiber upgrades available, I doubt very many people are running 100% stock, out of the box, chassis anyway. I know my chassis are all running different levels ofcomponents based on what I felt like needed upgrading.

I know I had to add weght to make the minimum weights for both USVTA (1550g) and USGT (1450g). My TC car is pretty close to the 1380g limit ready to run.

But, that said, it's normally just as important to have a balanced car as it is to have a car at the minimum weight for the class. I.e., having a car weight 20g more than the minimum but be balanced is more important that being right at the minimum.

Good luck, maybe someone building a chassis will read this and post right after completing their build.
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Old 11-06-2012, 07:51 PM   #2155
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I'll be getting my chassis in a couple of days I'll throw in on the scales and get you info
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Old 11-06-2012, 11:35 PM   #2156
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1380 g its great, our minimum in spain is 1350g, thank you very much.
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Old 11-12-2012, 08:26 PM   #2157
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Default ball dif

can some one post all the parts i need for a ball dif. that would be great
can i use any parts from the gear difs?
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:39 AM   #2158
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I race on quite slippery tarmac and in stock form I have absolutely no rear grip. I was thinking of getting the spring tuning kit and I am also thinking of modifying the rear suspension setup to use the front suspension mount - it would seem this is a good mod to improve the rear grip?? Is it just a case of buying the front suspension mount and the front diff cover? The graphite mounts say "Plus 4mm" what does this mean?

Another racer also suggested moving the top rear link into the inner hole and raising the link up by 1mm. Would you do both at the same time or raise first then move in?

Many thanks


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Originally Posted by TeamThibault View Post
can some one post all the parts i need for a ball dif. that would be great
can i use any parts from the gear difs?
I'm sorry I don't know the right part numbers but they are on RC Mart website.

Diff pulley
Diff D plates
3mm Ceramic balls
Diff housing
Diff screw set

You also need 2 bearings but I forget the size - I just happen to have 2 left over from another build. Theres also the thrust race which I forgot but I think the TRF416 race fits - this is also on RC Mart. Hope that is of some use.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:11 AM   #2159
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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
I race on quite slippery tarmac and in stock form I have absolutely no rear grip. I was thinking of getting the spring tuning kit and I am also thinking of modifying the rear suspension setup to use the front suspension mount - it would seem this is a good mod to improve the rear grip?? Is it just a case of buying the front suspension mount and the front diff cover? The graphite mounts say "Plus 4mm" what does this mean?
I'm not sure why you would want to do this and how it would help?
Best to leave it how it is, that way you can get the rear diff in & out without the need to remove the shock mount.

The "Plus 4mm" is for shocks that are longer than the standard ones that come in the kit, for example TRF touring car shocks.
If you want the graphite one for the Zero kit shocks you'll want to get the one with the part number SAK-36/WO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Another racer also suggested moving the top rear link into the inner hole and raising the link up by 1mm. Would you do both at the same time or raise first then move in?
Another thing you could try for a very slippery surface is to use a lighter oil in the rear gear diff. I'm using 400 weight shock oil in my rear diff, I race on a slippery concrete surface and get very good grip at the rear also using the springs that come with the kit.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 11-15-2012, 04:44 AM   #2160
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Originally Posted by ta04evah View Post
I'm not sure why you would want to do this and how it would help?
Best to leave it how it is, that way you can get the rear diff in & out without the need to remove the shock mount.

The "Plus 4mm" is for shocks that are longer than the standard ones that come in the kit, for example TRF touring car shocks.
If you want the graphite one for the Zero kit shocks you'll want to get the one with the part number SAK-36/WO.



Another thing you could try for a very slippery surface is to use a lighter oil in the rear gear diff. I'm using 400 weight shock oil in my rear diff, I race on a slippery concrete surface and get very good grip at the rear also using the springs that come with the kit.

Cheers
Rob.
+1. What he said but I would definitely get the spring kit. Springs are a priceless tuning piece.
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