6376vette

Keep the vertical mount and grind the battery holder corners to clear the belt. The holes in the spur gears are not meant to give you screw access and they probably won't line up very well. BTW x ray uses an off set spur so you probably don't want to use one of their gears.

Also if you ever upgrade to a carbon chassis you lose the battery holders anyway.

TeamThibault

sorry vette
I wasnt clear. I did cut down the battery corners to fit under the belt but had to remove them to gain access to the motor screws with ver mount. I hate using tape to hold battery in place.
thanks for the xray info ...help me not to buy a useless part

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

You can still use the battery tray guides, but you do need to Dremel the corner piece on the inside of the chassis a bit. Look for my post #1735 on page 58 of this thread.

wgv58

Hi everyone, I'm new to RC and I think I'm having an issue with the steering losing it's setting. I can get it trimmed out to go straight but if I have even the slightest bump it will need to be adjusted again.
I am running a THS digital servo with a servo saver.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for yuour responses.

wollow86

iTrader: (7)

Yeah its the servo saver. The kit one sucks.

Get a Kimbrough Mid size. That will fix it right up

wgv58

Thanks Wollow I will give it a try.

charl mac

Something I could share about my efforts with the gear diff.

I have had very good results with the following, use antiware grease on both sides of the gasket, I also use an Dremel and flatten the rounding of the diff housing plastic where the screw turns in I have had some gears touching if the screw does not go in 100% straight.

Then find a 5mmx1.2mm(or1.25) o-ring, I have used 1.2mm in 5 diff now with no problems. The std o-ring are to small for the out drive and need to be stretched over to try and seal in the diff casing, this creates a lot of friction because the o-ring fits so tight over the outdrive. The leak comes from the o-ring spinning in the diff housing and not the sharft inside the o-ring after some use. Thats why some including my self started using 30wt and 40wt in the diff to let it feel looser.

Now my diffs are nice a smooth, loose and not leaky and using 1000wt - 2000wt and think 2000wt feels better than std o-ring with 40wt oil.

Just some feed back hope it helps.

oceanhighz

iTrader: (49)

another sakura already built for sale with some extras, was going to be my parts car, ended up not using any of the parts, although the front body posts were misplaced. Otherwise, the car is ready to go.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...tra-parts.html

kikoy

iTrader: (2)

Guys would you suggest to change the steering steering system to aluminum?


Thanks in advance!

FauxMako

I replaced mine with the alum version when the "wings" on the Ackerman adjustment piece started getting loose and letting that piece wobble. But unless/until you get some play in the stock parts I'd like it ride.

d.k.vmatt

i had to replace my steering as i had destroyed the wing bit after a few wall rubs

kikoy

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for your reply guys. Mine now has some play on the ackerman mount. Ill just replace it with the aluminum piece.

d.k.vmatt

the alum peicethe ball fit into fits really tight on the peice with the bearings. this is the combo im going to try just to have the strength and reduce the overall weight of the car as well as the weight the servo has to throw.... not that the TG servo has an issue with weight or speed

desertrc

Does anyone know what pinion size will fit with the stock 80t spur? I am running a speed passion 17.5 citrux club stock with the verticle motor mount and 20t pulleys. I figured 38t pinion would get me my 4.0 FDR but that size does not fit. Any help would be great.

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

If anyone is looking or has a buddy wanting to try a sedan, I just listed my fully upgraded Zero for sale.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...o-package.html