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Old 10-07-2012, 06:58 AM   #2071
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Hi there,

I have just registered as I am in the process of building an S to go racing again after a few years break. All going well but just can't get the diffs to seal. They either leak from the screw heads or from the case itself if not tight enough but if I tighten too much the diff won't move. I'm a bit stuck on what to try next. Any ideas?
Welcome back.

try black silicone on each side of the gasket. It is easy to apply, seals very well, and is easy to remove. A little goes a long way. You should be able to pick it up at the auto parts store.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:52 AM   #2072
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Mike have you tried 3racing own spurs? They have a massive range, they are dirt cheap and come in 48 and 64 variants...
I have not tried them yet no. But I will look into them. I did find some Kimbrough 64p spur gears that I was able to make work to get the FDR I was looking for.


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Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
im running a 74/37 combo in a vertical mount and the pinion clears by a hair but it works.
I got a 80/47 (64p gears of course) to barely work with a little dremel work and was able to pull off a 3.234 FDR! Which is right about where I want to be.
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:42 AM   #2073
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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Hi there,

I have just registered as I am in the process of building an S to go racing again after a few years break. All going well but just can't get the diffs to seal. They either leak from the screw heads or from the case itself if not tight enough but if I tighten too much the diff won't move. I'm a bit stuck on what to try next. Any ideas?
Hi,

another zero owner posted a link to the 3 racing site that gave good advice and tips to build the diffs so they dont leak.
Part of the process is to use 3 racing anti wear grease on the seals, I used a different brand but it still worked and the diffs don't leak.

Thanks to wollow86 for the link. http://www.rctech.net/forum/11189958-post1982.html

http://os.3racing.hk/articles.php?articles_key=133

Also if you use the kit shocks or the alloy 3 racing shocks I found that if you use Tamiya seals for the top of the shock they will never leak.

Cheers
Rob.
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:37 PM   #2074
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To get the diffs to seal you have to file the case where the screw goes in because it leaves a slight mound in the plastic once done the diff wont leak and you dont need any sealant apart from the gasket of course
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:26 PM   #2075
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To get the diffs to seal you have to file the case where the screw goes in because it leaves a slight mound in the plastic once done the diff wont leak and you dont need any sealant apart from the gasket of course
This will work for newer diffs but as the diff ages the screws must be tightened more to put enough pressure on the gasket to seal properly. if you put too much torque on the screws to get the gasket to seal then the diff binds. I am about to install my third diff case because of this problem. I think I'm actually going to go with the ball diff instead. I'm tired changing diff oils and cases.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:24 PM   #2076
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
This will work for newer diffs but as the diff ages the screws must be tightened more to put enough pressure on the gasket to seal properly. if you put too much torque on the screws to get the gasket to seal then the diff binds. I am about to install my third diff case because of this problem. I think I'm actually going to go with the ball diff instead. I'm tired changing diff oils and cases.
Have you tried taking out 1 shim from inside one side of the diff before you tighten it up again? Instead of having 3 shims, leave 2 there and that will allow the side bevel gear to not be pushed up against the other gears.

Cheers
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:56 AM   #2077
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Have you tried taking out 1 shim from inside one side of the diff before you tighten it up again? Instead of having 3 shims, leave 2 there and that will allow the side bevel gear to not be pushed up against the other gears.

Cheers
Rob.
I have tried it before but not on this latest diff. Last time I tried it the o rings started leaking. The black silicone allows the diff to seal without having to torque the screws too hard.

I'm still really wanting to try the ball diff. I put the ball diff in my fgx and love it. I haven't ever run one in a tc chassis though. I don't mind additional cleaning and adjustment. The leaking oil is just really frustrating and being able to tune with the tweak of a screw should really help get the car dialed for track conditions.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:48 PM   #2078
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Originally Posted by 6376vette View Post
I have tried it before but not on this latest diff. Last time I tried it the o rings started leaking. The black silicone allows the diff to seal without having to torque the screws too hard.

I'm still really wanting to try the ball diff. I put the ball diff in my fgx and love it. I haven't ever run one in a tc chassis though. I don't mind additional cleaning and adjustment. The leaking oil is just really frustrating and being able to tune with the tweak of a screw should really help get the car dialed for track conditions.
I have to admit that I prefer ball diffs as well, the zero is my new car so I'm going to give the gear diffs a try at least. If I don't like the gear diffs, then I'll look at dropping a spool & ball diff into the car.

I have multiple ball diffs for my ta05 so I can just drop in different diffs for different tracks/track conditions, especially slippery tracks where that diff slippage can help keep the car pointed in the right direction.

Cheers
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:20 PM   #2079
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Had my first race evening with the S. I thought I had the rear diff sealed but it leaked real bad and splattered pretty much everything. I have sanded the cases and put anti wear grease on the seal but didn't work. On the plus side the diff itself feels good, I put 40wt shock oil in the rear and 1:1 comma multi purpose grease in the front diff which feels smooth but stiff. Going to try sealant before giving in for a ball (would ball be better than the roller diff?). I didn't want anything too fast so put a 13.5 motor in the car but under geared the car massively. 24/80 with the 19t pulley. Least it helped stay on track! Going to get 28 30 and 32 for next week.
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:44 PM   #2080
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Originally Posted by Eddscott View Post
Had my first race evening with the S. I thought I had the rear diff sealed but it leaked real bad and splattered pretty much everything. I have sanded the cases and put anti wear grease on the seal but didn't work. On the plus side the diff itself feels good, I put 40wt shock oil in the rear and 1:1 comma multi purpose grease in the front diff which feels smooth but stiff. Going to try sealant before giving in for a ball (would ball be better than the roller diff?). I didn't want anything too fast so put a 13.5 motor in the car but under geared the car massively. 24/80 with the 19t pulley. Least it helped stay on track! Going to get 28 30 and 32 for next week.
40wt shock oil seems awfully light for a gear diff. You should be in the 2000 -5000wt range. Might be why it's leaking so badly.
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Old 10-10-2012, 08:02 PM   #2081
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40wt shock oil seems awfully light for a gear diff. You should be in the 2000 -5000wt range. Might be why it's leaking so badly.
I have never gone heavier than 1000 in my sakura diff and 80wt shock oil seemed just about right. For some reason the sakura diffs seem tighter than the xray or spec r diffs.
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:55 PM   #2082
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Hi guys I am runnig a sakura zero and i am looking for advice on gearing . I understand that there are different ideas out there just wanna pick some of ideas. How do you dtermine the sweet spot of rpms is it someting measured or just a feel. Is smaller spurs and larger pinons better than larger spurs and smaller pinion? Thanks for your input in advance.
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Old 10-11-2012, 09:46 PM   #2083
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Originally Posted by buckeye dan View Post
Hi guys I am runnig a sakura zero and i am looking for advice on gearing . I understand that there are different ideas out there just wanna pick some of ideas. How do you dtermine the sweet spot of rpms is it someting measured or just a feel. Is smaller spurs and larger pinons better than larger spurs and smaller pinion? Thanks for your input in advance.
It depends on your motor and the track you are running at.

What motor will you be running?
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Old 10-14-2012, 03:22 AM   #2084
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Hi,

After some advice, I have a sakura s comming in the mail and I will soon be racing on a carpet track.

I have the belt adjuster , CF top deck and vertical motor mount comming in the post as my first upgrades and I will be installing a set of threaded Sakura shocks and 19t centre pulley and alloy spur holder, is there any other worthwhile upgrades?

Also am I better of using 48p or 64p gears?

Any advice and building tips will be appreciated.

Thanx in advance.
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Old 10-14-2012, 11:07 AM   #2085
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64 pitch gives u more adjustment
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Originally Posted by Rc-bear View Post
Hi,

After some advice, I have a sakura s comming in the mail and I will soon be racing on a carpet track.

I have the belt adjuster , CF top deck and vertical motor mount comming in the post as my first upgrades and I will be installing a set of threaded Sakura shocks and 19t centre pulley and alloy spur holder, is there any other worthwhile upgrades?

Also am I better of using 48p or 64p gears?

Any advice and building tips will be appreciated.

Thanx in advance.
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