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Old 09-26-2012, 04:08 AM   #2041
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I recently updated the firmware to include boost/turbo on a 10.5 even with modest boost levels the damn thing was so fast i couldnt take the first turn after the straight without slowing down significantly but after installing swaybars i can now corner at a faster speed. overall the sakura handles well with more power even though ive noticed most people are using them in the blinky classes
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Old 09-26-2012, 10:49 AM   #2042
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I want to buy a Sakura XI without waiting a month for it to come in the mail... Anyone know where I can get my hands on one speedily? I have paypal and 100% trader rating... I'll check this forum periodically for pm's and posts. Maybe a gently used one...

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Old 09-26-2012, 01:45 PM   #2043
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Nevermind, I found a sakura xi ver dh at hotshotrc.com They didn't have them one their website, I had to call in my order...770-427-3770 It's in Marietta Georgia, man I love the south!
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Old 09-26-2012, 02:00 PM   #2044
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Nevermind, I found a sakura xi ver dh at hotshotrc.com They didn't have them one their website, I had to call in my order...770-427-3770 It's in Marietta Georgia, man I love the south!
That's my local track Getting ready to head over there now for the Wicked Wednesday races.

I need to remember to suggest them more often.

tqrcracing.com and hotshothobby.com are about the only places in the US that carry 3Racing on a regular basis that I'd order from.
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Old 09-26-2012, 03:30 PM   #2045
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There's also hksrc.com outta California... I order parts there when I can't find them at Tqrcracing.com I will definitely add www.hotshotrc.com to the list, the owner is a great guy. He already shipped it 2 hrs after my purchase
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:10 PM   #2046
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Don't forget Integy.com now has S parts as well as a lot of other 3Racing stuff! They are in CA too.
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Old 09-26-2012, 04:49 PM   #2047
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Sakura Zero S for saleFS: Sakura Zero S w/upgrades
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Old 09-27-2012, 05:29 PM   #2048
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I'm going to be starting my build . Whats a good diff oil and shock oil to use i dont want to use the provided ones . thanks in advance .
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Old 09-28-2012, 05:56 AM   #2049
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I'm going to be starting my build . Whats a good diff oil and shock oil to use i dont want to use the provided ones . thanks in advance .
Associated shock oil is my brand of choice. I always use 30wt shock oil in my rear diff, and I only fill the sak diff HALF of what the book says...As far as the front diff I put eraser putty in the gears to make it solid. No more plastic outdrives breaking for me. It suits my driving style and makes the rear end predictable. Also, Associated recommends shock oil for their gear diff's........ Food for thought

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Old 09-28-2012, 08:57 AM   #2050
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Associated shock oil is my brand of choice. I always use 30wt shock oil in my rear diff, and I only fill the sak diff HALF of what the book says...As far as the front diff I put eraser putty in the gears to make it solid. No more plastic outdrives breaking for me. It suits my driving style and makes the rear end predictable. Also, Associated recommends shock oil for their gear diff's........ Food for thought
FYI your plastic outdrives will break easier with a solid front diff although the performance is worth the wear one tear.
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Old 09-28-2012, 09:04 AM   #2051
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I'm going to be starting my build . Whats a good diff oil and shock oil to use i dont want to use the provided ones . thanks in advance .
What class are you racing? What is the racing surface? What is the traction level? All of these factors go into fluid selection. I run 40 wt in the shocks and 1000wt in the diff for indoor carpet. Running a 21.5 for usgt. I ran 30wt shock and 80wt diff for vta 25.5.
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Old 09-28-2012, 11:52 AM   #2052
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Hey guys. Looking at getting a Zero S for a VTA car. I've started reading the thread from the beginning and am finding contradictory information. Plus its from '10 so not sure if anything has changed since then. I want to keep this car as cheap as possible. So no aluminum unless I HAVE to have it. I saw there were issues with getting the correct gearing for the 25.5 and still being able to tighten down the motor. So what is everyones solution? Do I just need the vertical motor mount? Suggestions on gearing? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:02 PM   #2053
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Hey guys. Looking at getting a Zero S for a VTA car. I've started reading the thread from the beginning and am finding contradictory information. Plus its from '10 so not sure if anything has changed since then. I want to keep this car as cheap as possible. So no aluminum unless I HAVE to have it. I saw there were issues with getting the correct gearing for the 25.5 and still being able to tighten down the motor. So what is everyones solution? Do I just need the vertical motor mount? Suggestions on gearing? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
19T center pullies and alloy spur gear holder are pretty much required as the front belt is too tight otherwise.

VTA gearing: You should start around 4.0 and adjust from there. I use 93T 64P spur and 46 or 47T pinion to get to close to 4.0 and still be able to move up or down 3-4 teeth on the pinion to adjust for track variables.

Vertial Motor Mount isn't required it's just a PITA to get the motor mounted without one as one of the motor screws will be behind the spur and you'll either need to do a lot of repositioning or make sure your spur has holes big enough to get your driver through them. You can keep the stock FRP top plate you'll just need to dremel out the center some to allow the VMM arm through.

Other than that you can run until something breaks or annoys you enough to change it out -- turnbuckles for example are annoying, but other than being hard to adjust they serve their purpose just fine.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:29 PM   #2054
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Quote:
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19T center pullies and alloy spur gear holder are pretty much required as the front belt is too tight otherwise.

VTA gearing: You should start around 4.0 and adjust from there. I use 93T 64P spur and 46 or 47T pinion to get to close to 4.0 and still be able to move up or down 3-4 teeth on the pinion to adjust for track variables.

Vertial Motor Mount isn't required it's just a PITA to get the motor mounted without one as one of the motor screws will be behind the spur and you'll either need to do a lot of repositioning or make sure your spur has holes big enough to get your driver through them. You can keep the stock FRP top plate you'll just need to dremel out the center some to allow the VMM arm through.

Other than that you can run until something breaks or annoys you enough to change it out -- turnbuckles for example are annoying, but other than being hard to adjust they serve their purpose just fine.
+1 on FauxMako's comments above.
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Old 09-28-2012, 12:31 PM   #2055
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Awesome. Thanks for the info.
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