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Old 09-11-2012, 04:53 PM   #1996
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Originally Posted by BCZero View Post
Hi Kevin,

I would recommend building a gear diff with the right fluid weight over a ball diff for the zero (based on experience) however, if you're a ball diff fan and can't be swayed, the Parts you need are...

Ball Diff Parts
Steel Balls 3RB-B30
24mm Diff Spacers. 416-10A
Thrust bearings 416-10F
Diff screw set SAK-01
38T Pulley SAK-02
Diff housing SAK-03
Dust cover tape SAK-04
Bearing Set BS-SAK01/V1

By steel ball studs do you mean the 6mm Ball stud hex screws?
If so...

4.8mm 6mm Ball studs. 3RAC-BS4806/PK
4.8mm 9mm ball studs. 3RAC-BS4810/PK

Or if you mean the ones on the suspension arms which are like a ball nut, they are. 5.8mm Ball Stud. Don't have that part no. On my list for some reason...it should be in the back of the manual though...

Edit: just checked it isn't for some reason, I'll keep looking...Ok seems they are 3rac-bs58h5 with a variety of colour codes, the most normal being titanium which is 3RAC-BS58H5/TI...
Thanks for the info. I was hoping there was a ball diff "kit" that had all the required parts in it. Guess I'll try rebuilding the gear diffs again. Any suggestions on what weight oil to put in them? I've tried the 2000 that came with the car (seemed too thick to me) and the shock oil which was better, but neither was as smooth as the gear dif in my TC6.

The 3RAC-BS4806/PK ball studs are listed as aluminum, I'd rather have steel ones (like came in the kit) but no-one seems to list any in their Sakura parts. Maybe "titanium" is the best option, but I'm not sure that they really are made of titanium, or just titanium colored aluminum.
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Old 09-11-2012, 05:25 PM   #1997
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Follow the building guide posted on the page before.
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:15 AM   #1998
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Thanks for the info. I was hoping there was a ball diff "kit" that had all the required parts in it. Guess I'll try rebuilding the gear diffs again. Any suggestions on what weight oil to put in them? I've tried the 2000 that came with the car (seemed too thick to me) and the shock oil which was better, but neither was as smooth as the gear dif in my TC6.

The 3RAC-BS4806/PK ball studs are listed as aluminum, I'd rather have steel ones (like came in the kit) but no-one seems to list any in their Sakura parts. Maybe "titanium" is the best option, but I'm not sure that they really are made of titanium, or just titanium colored aluminum.
Yep they are titanium colored.

As for diff oil, I tried 2000, but I'm on 1000w now. However that suits me, others I know run 750w and others higher again, go with what feels good to you, but if 2000 feels tight come down to 1000w.
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Old 09-12-2012, 03:23 AM   #1999
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I've found the gear diff needs to be run in before you settle on oil weight. I used 30wt when the diff was new, but am now up to 80wt (1000cst) and it feels lighter then with the 30wt when new. That's for the rear diff anyway.

You will want to go higher in the front diff, depending on the track and your preference. I use 300000wt on a tighter indoor track, but will swap to a spool for a larger outdoor one.

As suggested, follow 3Racings guide. It really does help prevent leaks. The big thing is to use the anti wear grease on the gasket and o rings. And don't over tighten the diff housing screws.
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Old 09-12-2012, 01:21 PM   #2000
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After 4 days I finally made it to the end of this thread!

I am about ready to order a Sakura Zero S with the following options and spares:

Options:
Titanium turnbuckles
Steering rack
Servo mount
Vertical motor mount
19T pulley
Aluminum gear adapter
Lay shaft/shims
6mm hexes
Roll center shim kit
3Racing spring kit
SSK driveshafts

Spares:
Standard arms (F)
Standard arms (R)
C hubs
Uprights (F)
Uprights (R)

All that said, I do still have a couple of questions:

1. If I use the SSK driveshafts in the front, can I then use the kit driveshafts in the rear? Will the kit driveshafts (44mm?) fit in the rear with the "hard" arms? What about with the hard arms and narrow suspension?

2. I have 300k wt and 2000wt diff oil in my "cart" as well. The local racing club (SoCal-RC) races in a parking lot with medium traction. Would it be worth the money to purchase some 100k wt diff oil as well, or is the consensus to run as thick as you can up front and tune with the rear?

3. Due to the local track being a parking lot I am concerned about debris in the drive train. Does anyone run 17.5 blinky with 48p gears? How small of a spur gear can I run, and conversely, how large of a pinion fits this car? I have been seeing 4.00 FDR as a target for several classes. Does anyone have any other ratios they have found work well without generating excessive heat?

4. Does anyone have any suggested starting points for spring rates/shock oil/camber link positions for a medium traction outdoor track? Go ahead and be technical if you can, I used to race TC several years ago and currently race 2wd 1/10 buggy and 2wd 1/10 SC (X Factory cars, so I have to know about setup since I'm the only one in my area running them).

5. I have heard mention in here that the entire kit is assembled using a 2mm driver. Is there any truth to this? I don't want to purchase extra tools if I don't have to, and I do have a 2mm and 3mm driver that came with my tool kit and has never been used. Along the same lines, what size screws do I need to replace the Phillips screws used for the differentials?

Sorry for such a long post, just trying to recap everything before I forget!

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Old 09-12-2012, 02:22 PM   #2001
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Originally Posted by bdyche View Post
5. I have heard mention in here that the entire kit is assembled using a 2mm driver. Is there any truth to this? I don't want to purchase extra tools if I don't have to, and I do have a 2mm and 3mm driver that came with my tool kit and has never been used. Along the same lines, what size screws do I need to replace the Phillips screws used for the differentials?
I'll leave the rest to someone else that knows better. I wore out a 2mm driver tip putting together my kit. Definitely have a spare or two! The worst part was my fingers! I could barely move them after completing the kit! They were sore for days!
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Old 09-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bdyche View Post
3. Due to the local track being a parking lot I am concerned about debris in the drive train. Does anyone run 17.5 blinky with 48p gears? How small of a spur gear can I run, and conversely, how large of a pinion fits this car? I have been seeing 4.00 FDR as a target for several classes. Does anyone have any other ratios they have found work well without generating excessive heat?

5. I have heard mention in here that the entire kit is assembled using a 2mm driver. Is there any truth to this? I don't want to purchase extra tools if I don't have to, and I do have a 2mm and 3mm driver that came with my tool kit and has never been used. Along the same lines, what size screws do I need to replace the Phillips screws used for the differentials?


Hello,

To answer question 3 you can get an FDR of 4.0 with a 70 tooth spur and 35 tooth pinion since you are getting the 19 tooth pulley. Although the heat side of things really depends on the motor. I'm running 21.5t blinky and until i got down to an fdr of around 3.3 the motor wasn't even getting warm and I still had accelaration out of corners but other people with other motors don't dare go below 3.8 with the heat that their motors produce and the top speed down the straight is comparable.

For question 5 i bought M2.6x8mm screws that use a 1.5mm hex.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Axial-Hex...item2a1c66ab5b

Cheers,
Patrick
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Old 09-13-2012, 03:34 AM   #2003
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im running 4.0 fdr with 74 spur and 37t pinion. its a very tight fit in the vertical mount but it works. thats using 19t gears
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Old 09-13-2012, 09:45 AM   #2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarton View Post
I'll leave the rest to someone else that knows better. I wore out a 2mm driver tip putting together my kit. Definitely have a spare or two! The worst part was my fingers! I could barely move them after completing the kit! They were sore for days!
I have a 3mm tap to use prior to actually threading the screws in, so hopefully I won't be as sore! I will definitely add a spare 2mm tip to my shopping cart so I don't get caught short. Thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by pmac View Post
Hello,

To answer question 3 you can get an FDR of 4.0 with a 70 tooth spur and 35 tooth pinion since you are getting the 19 tooth pulley. Although the heat side of things really depends on the motor. I'm running 21.5t blinky and until i got down to an fdr of around 3.3 the motor wasn't even getting warm and I still had accelaration out of corners but other people with other motors don't dare go below 3.8 with the heat that their motors produce and the top speed down the straight is comparable.

For question 5 i bought M2.6x8mm screws that use a 1.5mm hex.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Axial-Hex...item2a1c66ab5b

Cheers,
Patrick
Thanks for the guidance on gearing. It looks like I'll pick up a 70-74t spur gears and 35-36 pinion. I run 17.5 2wd buggy so I have a pretty solid selection of pinions below that. Thanks for the link on the screws, too. I don't want to be caught with broken screws/leaking diffs during the build, let alone on a race day since I am my own hobby shop with this car (as well as my X Factory cars, but I digress).

Quote:
Originally Posted by d.k.vmatt View Post
im running 4.0 fdr with 74 spur and 37t pinion. its a very tight fit in the vertical mount but it works. thats using 19t gears
I'll make sure to add this combination to my cart, too. Thanks!
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Old 09-13-2012, 07:08 PM   #2005
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Quote:
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im running 4.0 fdr with 74 spur and 37t pinion. its a very tight fit in the vertical mount but it works. thats using 19t gears
If you need more space the Xi v2 MM works wonders. So much easier for spur changes, but importantly I can fit 75/43. It runs out of room with the slots for the motor screws, but some light dremeling would give you more space, but tbh, you can just drop the spur size to go lower if you need to.

Here's a pic of 75/37 in the hybrid.



21.5 blinky can produce a wide range of ratios that work. I run about 3.2-3.0 with the timing turned up to the 2nd last notch on my revtech. But on a large outdoor track I would need to go below 3.
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:02 AM   #2006
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I snapped an arm at the track tonight.

So is there any chance there are any stronger arms avaliable?
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Old 09-14-2012, 06:31 AM   #2007
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Use the XI arms, they are stronger.
Or the harder arms for the Sakura Zero(not S)

regards Roy

Quote:
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I snapped an arm at the track tonight.

So is there any chance there are any stronger arms avaliable?
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:59 AM   #2008
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I thought it was the other way around:

Hard arms are more likely to break because they don't flex.
Soft arms are less likely to break because they flex.
I.e., a softer material will bend when a harder material will snap.

Also, just throwing this out there, I haven't broken an arm since I switched to the XRay bumper.
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Old 09-14-2012, 12:41 PM   #2009
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...I haven't broken an arm since I switched to the XRay bumper.
+1. I put an XRAY or Parma hard bumper on all my TC's.
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Old 09-14-2012, 04:39 PM   #2010
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My breakage was caused by side swiping the pit wall repeatedly and I think the final time it grabed the tyre on the wall and just pulled it backwards.
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