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Old 07-11-2012, 03:16 AM   #1771
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Originally Posted by davlind View Post
Just finished the build with a few options.
Fitted the vertical motor mount, 19t pulleys, 5mm hexes and the X-ray bumper. The top brace needed some creative grinding to fit as did the battery holders to get the lipo in. I ended up using the old pulley mount with a screw to hold back the battery from the belts.
One thing though, there's quite a lot of slack in the long belt. Is that normal as it seems excessive.
If anyone can help with tyre choice and setup for serccc in dandy or boronia. I've got some muchmore 32's. I'm using standard shocks with spacers and 40wt and kit springs. Front diff 300k and rear 2k. Are they alright. I'm. It sure about height from the ground and droop. Camber and toe as per setup sheet.
Also what's the best way to upload pics from your iPhone onto this page. Ill try and put up some pics later of the car and the newly painted body.

Great forum guys.
Your in the ballpark for sure. But IIRC, the manual positions for the camber a way out.. you end up with like 5*. If you have it, put a weaker oil in the rear diff. I use 80wt shock oil at the moment. Ride height will depend on track surface, I run 5mm front and 5.5mm rear. If its bumpy go up to 5.5 and 6. Kit springs are pretty hard, but if you pick up a set of 5.75 for the rear its better then nothing. I would say 5.75 and 6.0 would be better, if you struggle for rear grip try 5.75 and 6.5.

I've run the 32s on top coat before, and they worked well. But it depends on if you have warmers and stuff. If its cold and top coat, then probably 28s. Ive been running sorex 36 here in the cold temps and after they come up to temp they work well. Its like a drift car till they do though so warmers are a must.

For iPhone/Android upload I've always used Photobucket. Its free, and its easy. Create the account on a PC, download the app, and start uploading. Then browse to the site and get the code "[IMG/]" then paste that in the post. Should work fine.
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Old 07-11-2012, 12:29 PM   #1772
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
Your in the ballpark for sure. But IIRC, the manual positions for the camber a way out.. you end up with like 5*. If you have it, put a weaker oil in the rear diff. I use 80wt shock oil at the moment. Ride height will depend on track surface, I run 5mm front and 5.5mm rear. If its bumpy go up to 5.5 and 6. Kit springs are pretty hard, but if you pick up a set of 5.75 for the rear its better then nothing. I would say 5.75 and 6.0 would be better, if you struggle for rear grip try 5.75 and 6.5.

I've run the 32s on top coat before, and they worked well. But it depends on if you have warmers and stuff. If its cold and top coat, then probably 28s. Ive been running sorex 36 here in the cold temps and after they come up to temp they work well. Its like a drift car till they do though so warmers are a must.

For iPhone/Android upload I've always used Photobucket. Its free, and its easy. Create the account on a PC, download the app, and start uploading. Then browse to the site and get the code "[IMG/]" then paste that in the post. Should work fine.
why harder rear spring can help rear grip?
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Old 07-11-2012, 03:23 PM   #1773
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why harder rear spring can help rear grip?
Higher number = softer spring for the 3 racing range. If your not sure, you can compare them by placing the two springs end to end, then compressing them in your fingers. The softer spring will compress more.

6.5 is the softest spring, and 4.25 is the hardest (I think that's the hardest they go anyway)
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Old 07-11-2012, 04:16 PM   #1774
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Originally Posted by wollow86 View Post
Higher number = softer spring for the 3 racing range. If your not sure, you can compare them by placing the two springs end to end, then compressing them in your fingers. The softer spring will compress more.

6.5 is the softest spring, and 4.25 is the hardest (I think that's the hardest they go anyway)
thanks, you are right. found this:

4.25T - 35.8 lb/in
4.5T - 31.7 lb/in
4.75T - 29.2 lb/in
5.0T - 26.2 lb/in
5.25T - 24.9 lb/in
5.50T - 22.9 lb/in
5.75T - 21.2 lb/in
6.0T - 20.0 lb/in
6.5T - 17.9 lb/in
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Old 07-11-2012, 05:23 PM   #1775
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Thanks wollow86.
Here's some pics of my new zero On photobucket.(hope the link works)
http://s1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/Davlind/
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:53 PM   #1776
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Nice looking zero
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:06 AM   #1777
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Originally Posted by nicholasxuu View Post
thanks, you are right. found this:

4.25T - 35.8 lb/in
4.5T - 31.7 lb/in
4.75T - 29.2 lb/in
5.0T - 26.2 lb/in
5.25T - 24.9 lb/in
5.50T - 22.9 lb/in
5.75T - 21.2 lb/in
6.0T - 20.0 lb/in
6.5T - 17.9 lb/in
I've seen that too, but i'm not sure the numbers are right though, because I've compared to the hpi full length pro4 springs I use on my XI DH with TRF shocks and the 5.75 was very close to Gold, which is 19lb/in, and the rear was 6.0 for 3racing and Silver for HPI (16.9lb/in)... Perhaps the length makes the springs rate differently?

Quote:
Originally Posted by davlind View Post
Thanks wollow86.
Here's some pics of my new zero On photobucket.(hope the link works)
http://s1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/Davlind/
No problems mate. Love the paint job on yours, what colours are they?

Also you can post individual photos too like this:

[IMG*]http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/Davlind/4634fc0d.jpg[/IMG*]

Without the * in the IMG part it does this

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Old 07-12-2012, 12:33 AM   #1778
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Smile Zero paint job

Thanks

Car colors are metallic green, metallic blue, some steel on the bottom and backed with white. All from a can too. I left the windows clear too.
I used a heat gun on it between coats and put the cans in warm water for a bit beforehand.
Need more ventilation next time I do it.

Where do you put a transponder? I haven't got one yet but on the m05 it comes with a mount to use the club units.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:54 AM   #1779
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I'm considering drilling a hole in the rear tower to use the club transponders. Otherwise put a hole in the windscreen.
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:59 AM   #1780
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I have seen the hole in the windscreen but I don't really want to drill into yet.
I'm thinking of making a bracket as well.
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Old 07-12-2012, 01:50 AM   #1781
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Hey Davlind, I noticed you have not used the screws that mount the top deck to the motor/spur mount. I tried that when I got my zero s. As I had changed the bulkheads and fitted the vertical motor mount, there wasnt the holes for those screws, about 2 laps into practice the top deck snapped in that area. With the material it is made of, it needs those screws to support the top deck. I have since changed to the carbon fibre top deck from the sakura zero.
Has anyone else had this problem.
I was running stock ( silvercan ) at the time.
Good choice in purchasing the sakura s. great car. I am currently running the sakura s with hobbywing 21.5, and running the sakura zero with hobbywing 13.5 or tekin rs pro/13.5.
Dave
ps. I race in New Zealand..... just over the ditch .

good luck with your racing.
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Old 07-12-2012, 02:26 AM   #1782
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Originally Posted by davenz View Post
Hey Davlind, I noticed you have not used the screws that mount the top deck to the motor/spur mount. I tried that when I got my zero s. As I had changed the bulkheads and fitted the vertical motor mount, there wasnt the holes for those screws, about 2 laps into practice the top deck snapped in that area. With the material it is made of, it needs those screws to support the top deck. I have since changed to the carbon fibre top deck from the sakura zero.
Has anyone else had this problem.
I was running stock ( silvercan ) at the time.
Good choice in purchasing the sakura s. great car. I am currently running the sakura s with hobbywing 21.5, and running the sakura zero with hobbywing 13.5 or tekin rs pro/13.5.
Dave
ps. I race in New Zealand..... just over the ditch .

good luck with your racing.
Hi Dave

I just checked that out. Your right. There's no threaded holes or even really any material to drill and tap out. Does the carbon deck not have any holes in this area?

ALso what FDR are you using on 21.5. I'm waiting on some pinions 32-38 to get the FDR down to between 3.6 -4. I'm using a 70t spur.
Thanks
Dave (another one)
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:28 AM   #1783
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davenz View Post
Hey Davlind, I noticed you have not used the screws that mount the top deck to the motor/spur mount. I tried that when I got my zero s. As I had changed the bulkheads and fitted the vertical motor mount, there wasnt the holes for those screws, about 2 laps into practice the top deck snapped in that area. With the material it is made of, it needs those screws to support the top deck. I have since changed to the carbon fibre top deck from the sakura zero.
Has anyone else had this problem.
I was running stock ( silvercan ) at the time.
Good choice in purchasing the sakura s. great car. I am currently running the sakura s with hobbywing 21.5, and running the sakura zero with hobbywing 13.5 or tekin rs pro/13.5.
Dave
ps. I race in New Zealand..... just over the ditch .

good luck with your racing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by davlind View Post
Hi Dave

I just checked that out. Your right. There's no threaded holes or even really any material to drill and tap out. Does the carbon deck not have any holes in this area?

ALso what FDR are you using on 21.5. I'm waiting on some pinions 32-38 to get the FDR down to between 3.6 -4. I'm using a 70t spur.
Thanks
Dave (another one)
The carbon deck doesnt connect to the layshaft mount or VMM. On my hybrid, the only part of the car that is left of a zero s is the layshaft mount. When I was rebuilding the car (got it 2nd hand) I noticed that the layshaft mount was slightly to high, and touching the deck (the VMM does not touch) even to the point of bending it out of shape. I sanded it down a little so there is now about a .5mm gap between the deck at the layshaft mount.

With the top deck, the more points its anchored to, the less flex the car will have. So I'm guessing that because the carbon deck is stiffer then the frp deck to begin with, it doesn't need the extra support. I run mine with an XI lower and a zero soft upper, no additional supports, both screws in the bulkheads at either end.

For the transponder I'm using a PT now. But when I was using club, I drilled a hole in the bonnet (for the space over the bumper, in front of the shock towers) then when I upgraded I just used a sticker to hide the hole
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Old 07-12-2012, 03:54 AM   #1784
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I'm unning the VMM with the standard top deck and no issues with cracking. Might have just been an odd thing perhaps?
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Old 07-12-2012, 12:41 PM   #1785
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Hey Dave, with my 21.5 I am running fdr 4.2 71/32*1.9.
As for the top deck mounts, I only use the most forward holes and the most rear holes. I do not use the screw that holds the steering to secure the top deck, so only 4 screws in total.. With the mounting of the steering ( on my zero ) i have screwed directly on the steering so it is under the top deck. With the 's' i am using the x1 steering system with my servo turned 90*.
Dave.
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