Originally Posted by buckeye dan
I just put my zero on carpet track for first practice. All i can say is love it,sold my Corally rdx thank god i did. Zero seemed very balanced have 125k in front diff 5 k in rear diff. Track owner seems a lil skeptible says he thinks it could be odd ball . lol well maybe i will have to be my own hobby store but heck i can buy extra car for parts.
wonder how people will feel when i beat them with 120 dollar car lol..
only thing i noticed was a slight push on corner entry but it sure did dig hard coming out of corner.
i am trying to learn more onsway bars and how and when to use them . any ideas?
Glad you like the sakura. Its not an odd ball they all work great
Some people get upset but most will ask you more about the car. You will probably see a few more pop up. This chassis has done tons to bring in people that cant afford a new xray. They can spend less and be just as fast. It is a great car.
I always recommend that people learn to tune what you have first. Get a solid understanding of the rest of the suspension, how it works, and how changes affect the car. If you add sway bars right away they can make the learning curve steeper and more confusing.
Sway bars are a quick way to increase or decrease traction at either end of the car. The changes are not as apparent as a spring change though. They are meant for finer tuning. Instead of changing the springs and shock oil you can go a step harder or softer on the sway bar. If you have a decent car but you want a little more steering then you can either soften the front bar or stiffen the rear bar. What you do to one end will affect the other. The sway bars basically tie the right side of the car to the left side of the car. When you turn and compress the outside suspension the other side of the bar will pull the inside arm up thus lowering the inside of the chassis thus changing the traction characteristics by keeping the center of gravity lower and controlling the chassis roll. The stiffer the bar the more the inside arm is pulled up and the less the chassis rolls.
The sway bars will be affected by springs shock oil ride height and droop. You really need to understand now these things work before you add the bars.
Probably not the best explanation of how they work but I hope it helps a little. They do work extremely well. For example I needed more center turn steering tonight. I had a very stiff front sway bar on the car. I went from the #5 bar to the #4 and finally to the #2 and I ended up with the steering I wanted without messing with the shocks.
As a general rule that occasionally gets broken I try to keep my front bar equal to or stiffer than the rear. A softer front usually ends up with some funky handling characteristics.