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Old 06-05-2012, 08:31 PM   #1636
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Originally Posted by oceanhighz View Post
Okay, so I'm going to ask several questions here and the answers are relatively important (yes I have read most of the thread, just double checking and making it easy to search for in the thread for myself). I am going to be testing one of these cars for our carpet track locally, to have another "entry level"/moderate price range chassis to get people racing this fall. In our area many people are not willing to drop $400 for a TC6 etc and then electronics etc etc, before they know they like it. From everything I have read, these kits are great kits and can compete with their Tc6 and Xray counterparts.

I will be testing the car as built from the kit to start (so I know what to expect and how it runs, when advising people on the kit). Then I will be getting parts that I hear are very helpful/necessary. Here are the things I know that I should try: 19t Pulley, aluminum spur gear adapter, and the vertical motor mount.

Some other parts I want to have for setups, are 1mil shims, different springs etc.

Our track is approximately 80x36, maybe slightly smaller, CRC carpet. The track will go from a "green" track to a track with a nice dark groove over the period of a few weeks nights or sometimes one weekend race day.

What springs would be good to use that 3racing offers for their mini shock? I will also be trying regular TC shocks with Tamiya shocks later, but want to try out what most people will have/ be able to get easily.

As far as Xi arms, these are supposedly harder and therefore break more easily? Is this correct?

I know there will be more, but for now this is a good start. I want to try to order a kit soon, build and start testing, so when carpet season rolls back around I'm ready to go. I'll probably be upgrading mine with carbon/graphite chassis' and others parts down the road, but I'll get that info down the road.

Thanks in advance.
What motor will you be running? I ask because my set up changed a lot from vta to usgt. The amount of weight shift will play a role in your spring choices.


Some people think the xi arms give more traction. I do not believe they are necessary. I have only used the zero arms and have always been able to tune for a stable rear end. The hard arms seem more durable then the standard.

The kit set up works well as a very solid starting point. You will probably need to lower the rear roll center a little and put on slightly softer rear springs. If you have a lot of weight shift you will need to stiffen the front springs. Using a thick front diff oil and a thin rear oil will help too. I am using 80wt shock oil in the rear diff and it feels pretty good. This should go a long way to having a very raceable chassis.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:35 PM   #1637
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Initially I'm going to test with a 17.5, but the idea for the class is to start with 21.5. Sounds like I'll need to just see what it does when I get it here. I will use the arms that come with the kit to test it, then maybe I'll try the Xi's to see what happens or if I notice a difference.

Thanks.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:42 PM   #1638
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Initially I'm going to test with a 17.5, but the idea for the class is to start with 21.5. Sounds like I'll need to just see what it does when I get it here. I will use the arms that come with the kit to test it, then maybe I'll try the Xi's to see what happens or if I notice a difference.

Thanks.
If you're using a 17.5 go with 40-60 wt shock oil with 3 hole dampers and use the 4.5 springs up front. Probably 6.0 springs infuriated rear. Dial some brake out of the speed control and you may want to add .5 to .75 mm of anti dive. This will help keep the rear under control under braking and corner entry. I have found that this car can be a little tail happy under decel if it is not tuned. Otherwise it is pretty stable. .5 mm of pro squat will help with on power traction too.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:48 PM   #1639
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Default Aftermarket turnbuckles?

Hey there everyone,
Have been working on my Zero S build, and was wondering if anyone has replaced/substituted the stock turnbuckles with any other company's turnbuckles? I have searched the thread, and haven't found any definative answers. I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions? If not I guess I will go with the titanium ones.

BTW I want to thank you all. I look forward to reading this thread for any new info or suggestions. I can't wait to get this baby on the carpet track. Oh, also, do you all seal the chassis with a thin layer of ca glue or something like that around the edge? Have read in a few places that some people do, to help prevent the chassis from cracking during a severe hit.

Thanks again everyone
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Old 06-05-2012, 09:08 PM   #1640
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Originally Posted by NewRCSim View Post
Hey there everyone,
Have been working on my Zero S build, and was wondering if anyone has replaced/substituted the stock turnbuckles with any other company's turnbuckles? I have searched the thread, and haven't found any definative answers. I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions? If not I guess I will go with the titanium ones.

BTW I want to thank you all. I look forward to reading this thread for any new info or suggestions. I can't wait to get this baby on the carpet track. Oh, also, do you all seal the chassis with a thin layer of ca glue or something like that around the edge? Have read in a few places that some people do, to help prevent the chassis from cracking during a severe hit.

Thanks again everyone
i used the 3mm 3racing turnbuckles
they work good i know the X-ray and tamiya ones will work to
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Old 06-06-2012, 07:55 AM   #1641
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Originally Posted by NewRCSim View Post
Hey there everyone,
Have been working on my Zero S build, and was wondering if anyone has replaced/substituted the stock turnbuckles with any other company's turnbuckles? I have searched the thread, and haven't found any definative answers. I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions? If not I guess I will go with the titanium ones.

BTW I want to thank you all. I look forward to reading this thread for any new info or suggestions. I can't wait to get this baby on the carpet track. Oh, also, do you all seal the chassis with a thin layer of ca glue or something like that around the edge? Have read in a few places that some people do, to help prevent the chassis from cracking during a severe hit.

Thanks again everyone
The sealing the edge is only relevent with carbon fiber parts and it's optional then. FRP doesn't need to be sealed.
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Old 06-06-2012, 08:09 AM   #1642
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Can someone please tell me what springs the kit comes with? And has anyone figured out the spring rates for their springs? It looks like their description of a spring tells the wire size, length, and number of turns, but not any sort of force/distance ratio.
They are rated 4.25, 4.50, 4.75, up to 6.50
Not sure how that compares to other brands.
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Old 06-07-2012, 07:38 AM   #1643
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Originally Posted by Kevin Marcy View Post
Can someone please tell me what springs the kit comes with? And has anyone figured out the spring rates for their springs? It looks like their description of a spring tells the wire size, length, and number of turns, but not any sort of force/distance ratio.
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Originally Posted by rm25x
They are rated 4.25, 4.50, 4.75, up to 6.50
Not sure how that compares to other brands.
Someone a while back posted the numbers they have gotten from testing. But I dont think that they are right any more. I recently changed to HPI springs on full sized dampers, and by feel matched the springs I had on the car in the shorter form.

I was running 5.75 and 6.0, which I replaced with Gold and silver. Which means 5.75 was about 19lb/in and 6.0 was 16.9lb/in. The testing data started the 6.5 (softest) at about 19lb/in. I have no means of testing it properly, I just simply placed the springs end to end and squashed them. Watching how they compared and felt when pressed. I also haven't had a chance to test that on track yet.

To be honest, just buy the box of springs and tune from there. The kit has 5.5 all round.
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Old 06-07-2012, 08:09 AM   #1644
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Originally Posted by NewRCSim View Post
Hey there everyone,
Oh, also, do you all seal the chassis with a thin layer of ca glue or something like that around the edge? Have read in a few places that some people do, to help prevent the chassis from cracking during a severe hit.

Thanks again everyone
I sanded the edges on my chassis parts and applied CA to seal. It eliminated the sharp edges and looks good in the process.
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Old 06-07-2012, 10:18 AM   #1645
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... To be honest, just buy the box of springs and tune from there. The kit has 5.5 all round.
I ordered the box with the 9 different springs in it. When it arrives, I'll do some testing and post what I find out.
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:26 PM   #1646
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Will the Yeah racing 64P spur gears work on Sakura S zero?
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:07 AM   #1647
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Will the Yeah racing 64P spur gears work on Sakura S zero?
most spur gears does, just make sure they have outer 4 holes in the correct place(most does), and the holes are round, not hexagon.
the holes are to fit the pulley.
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Old 06-10-2012, 02:33 AM   #1648
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what the best gear size setup Spur & Pinion . for a Hobbywing Xrun 21.5 Just stock system.

I want it fast as possible without cooking the motor.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:47 AM   #1649
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what the best gear size setup Spur & Pinion . for a Hobbywing Xrun 21.5 Just stock system.

I want it fast as possible without cooking the motor.
I'm running a revtech 21.5 with a dual cooling fan on a 88 spur and a 46 pinion and my temps are 140-160 after 8 minutes. The track you are on will also have a lot to do with gearing. If it is long and flowing you could probably use a larger pinion. We are tight and technical at our track. Spend some time freeing up the drive train and use a good oil in the bearings. Less resistance means lower temps.
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Old 06-10-2012, 08:52 AM   #1650
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Hey All,

Currently I run with a Sakura Zero with a cheap servo. I was thinking about upgrading my servo with a Savox SC-1251MG low profile digital that retails for about $63. Thoughts on this servo?
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