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Old 11-11-2011, 07:07 PM   #91
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Just bought my son and I one of these for vta class. Anyone got a good starting ratio for 21.5 and 17.5 non boost class? Can't beat the price for sure...picked up a third for a parts car.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:16 PM   #92
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It depends on a lot of things, track size, speed controller, motor, motor timing etc... I'd say the best place to ask would be motor forum for the motors your running, or at the track you planning on running at. The other racers should be able to give you a good idea.

What type of surface are you running on? I had some reliability issues with my Mi1 on parking lot type tracks. The Mi1 has no space under the diffs for rock clearance, so I was going through at least a set of pulley fences per meet if I was lucky. If I was unlucky you could add a set of belts and pulleys to that as well.

If your on carpet, your all set.
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:29 PM   #93
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Do they offer alum pulleys?
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Old 11-11-2011, 09:34 PM   #94
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Only for the layshaft. Otherwise you can get a CNC rear pulley, but the front CNC is an overdrive pulley for the one way setup.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:17 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Herc Driver View Post
Just bought my son and I one of these for vta class. Anyone got a good starting ratio for 21.5 and 17.5 non boost class? Can't beat the price for sure...picked up a third for a parts car.
86 spur 30 pinion
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:38 AM   #96
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86 spur 30 pinion
Thats the exact combo I use on one of our tracks with a 17.5 boosted to all hell. About 40deg boost and 20deg turbo.

FDR is track dependant.
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Old 11-12-2011, 12:58 PM   #97
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Wow that's a big ratio? I drove 22/stock when I tested the car and I want more snap in the bottom. Timing was 10 on my motor (17.5T speedpassion) and 40 timing with 40 turbo. Top speed was good, but the bottom end felt really soft. I'm driving indoors on carpet btw.

And is there a trick to losen the rear belt? It's really tight on my car.
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Last edited by morgoth; 11-12-2011 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 11-12-2011, 02:26 PM   #98
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Yeah it's big, but the track that's for is designed to accommodate 1:5 scale cars. I use 0deg motor timing to help torque out of the slower corners.

40 + 40 seems like alot, I thought you weren't meant to go past 65* total? Because more then that was actually retarding the timing...

As for the belt tension, my car had the same thing when it was stock. Since going to the alloy layshaft mount it's a lot better. I'm also running the modified belts now as well (the black ones). It gets better with use. Once the belt has a few runs on it it will loosen up. But check to make sure the tiny hole in the layshaft mount is facing the right way.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:18 AM   #99
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Yeah it's big, but the track that's for is designed to accommodate 1:5 scale cars. I use 0deg motor timing to help torque out of the slower corners.

40 + 40 seems like alot, I thought you weren't meant to go past 65* total? Because more then that was actually retarding the timing...

As for the belt tension, my car had the same thing when it was stock. Since going to the alloy layshaft mount it's a lot better. I'm also running the modified belts now as well (the black ones). It gets better with use. Once the belt has a few runs on it it will loosen up. But check to make sure the tiny hole in the layshaft mount is facing the right way.
Honestly I don't know a lot about onroad racing I race 1/8 scale nitro and E and those ESC's don't have turbo etc.
A friend of mine did setup my ESC (speedpassion LFP). I looked in the manual of my car and 22/86 seems like a very high ratio. 24-26/86 looks better. Altough I want more bottom end. But maybe it's just me because I'm used to offroad cars?

The only upgrades I have on the car is a spool and metal axles in the front and a black rear belt. The layshaft mount is plastic, but holes are facing the right way (forward). Is the alloy one adjustable?
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Last edited by morgoth; 11-13-2011 at 05:30 AM.
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Old 11-13-2011, 05:27 AM   #100
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Is the alloy one adjustable?

Nup, but it sure does feel freer with that then the plastic one. I noticed it, because I upgraded the layshaft mount after I did the alloy diff housings and the cnc rear pulley and alloy layshaft pulley. I only did it so it would match the diff housings . But straight away I noticed the rear belt was freer.
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Old 11-13-2011, 08:03 AM   #101
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Mhhh, I bought this car for 90 bucks of a friend with the spool, black rear belt and front steel axles. He only drove it 4 afternoons and bought a second hand T3. I can't say that the car drives bad, but it's a crappy car to wrench on. Actually, the car drove shitty when I drove it for the first time, but after getting the setup dialed out it was pretty consistent and fast.

I bought it to drive a few times this winter since I don't have a lot of time because of my studies so I'm not going to buy any upgrades for it except bearings. I'm graduating this year so school is my first priority at the moment
If I like touring car, I'll probably get an Xray T3 for the next winter season since the biggest onroad class we have in Belgium is 17.5T boosted. I can't wait to get my first pay slip
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:36 PM   #102
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I can't say that the car drives bad, but it's a crappy car to wrench on.
Sure is. I gave mine a full hex conversion because of that. I hated the torx screws. The alloy diff housings and layshaft mount really speed up getting the top deck and stuff off so you can get to the diffs... I dont want to think about how much money I've spent on my Mi1...
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Old 11-18-2011, 03:25 PM   #103
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I race mine on both Carpet and Parking lot, as I said above in 17.5 Boosted. What would you like to know?

It handles pretty good, but I haven't quite got it nailed, but we run on astro turf thats worn down, so low grip carpet. I run sway bars all around for this, and schumacher white springs, with 40wt oil. The main thing I've found is if you want to run foam you have to cut anything but 26mm fronts. 30mm rears, and even 28mm jaco's need to be cut down to 26mm.

On rubber I got sweep 30 exp's to hook up better then the foams on the same setup, didnt even change the ride height for going to rubber. Fastest lap and consistency both dropped. I actually beat a TC6 running mod in that race. To be fair, it was a very close battle most of the race, then he got infront about 3 laps to go, i kept with him but dropped back about 5-6 secs on the last lap. Something broke on his car and handed me the win . But it was close the whole race.

I plan on trying sweep QTS 28s at the next race, and will be tuning the setup for them.
thanks for reply. still unsure on what to do. getting back to rc after a few years out, on a budget. quite fancy a micro off roader (cheap to get into, but hardly anyone racing them around here) or the mi1 (more expensive, but 3 clubs within easy travelling)

keep your mi1 experiences coming, you may just convince me!
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Old 11-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #104
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So, officially retired the Mi1 as my stock car, replaced it with a Sakura XI. The Mi1 will now be setup for silvercan racing, so we'll see how that goes. The sweep QTS 28s were better then the exp30s, but overall I'm going to have to run foams I think as the track is extremely dusty, so the rubbers just won't hook up properly.

For the Mi1, if you run foams, you need to cut anything that's not 26mm. Nothing else will fit.

If your looking at the Mi1, the car is very tough. I never broke a c hub, arm, or knuckle. The cf version is even better. Since doing that nothing has broken on the car, I've had slight delamination of the cf after evening rear ended by another tc doing about 40km/h with my car stopped, but nothing some CA couldn't fix.

One thing you do want to do if you run in areas with a lot of small stones, is cut away the chassis under the diff to let rocks out. After doing that I had one of the most reliable cars on the track. Before it was probably the least reliable.
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Old 11-19-2011, 12:12 AM   #105
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will be indoor if i return, so stones aren't a problem

need to revisit my old club, see if everyone is still on foams.
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