RCAmerica/Xray,Hudy
11-30-2010, 05:50 PM
#527
Only thing I can think of is to make sure the rear diff is in the up position?
11-30-2010, 07:40 PM
#529
Yes thanks heaps your input helped greatly.thanks
11-30-2010, 07:46 PM
#530
[QUOTE=Besercoe;8280020]
Hi yes they are 3 racing and you save about 7grams by using them and to open them up I had got a mate to machine them out but you can do it with a hand drill but only open it up slowly as the alloy is soft and the drill bit will bite.
here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.
QUOTE]
Nice, are those the 3racing outdrives?
Looks like you machined inside the outdrive to fit the bigger Xray balls, how did you do it?
QUOTE]
Nice, are those the 3racing outdrives?
Looks like you machined inside the outdrive to fit the bigger Xray balls, how did you do it?
11-30-2010, 08:37 PM
#531
Yeah I'm using the suggested shims in the rear per instructions. The diff is in the high postion. I guess I can shim it wider. I just hope I can keep my tires in the rear under the car body. Front with the same shims has about 2mm of room.
Last edited by RCknight; 12-01-2010 at 01:19 AM.
11-30-2010, 09:21 PM
#532
Suspended
12-01-2010, 01:16 AM
#533
can you take a picture of the diffoutdrive and the driveshaft so I/we can se how far the driveshaft goes in the diffoutdrive ?
12-01-2010, 01:18 AM
#534
Yeah I'll take a pic and post it soon.
12-01-2010, 03:47 AM
#535
I had the same problem with my T3R (diff up, 2.5 deg. camber)! Swaped to 50mm shafts and every thing works fine.
I'm running the spacers per the instructions.
12-01-2010, 03:58 AM
#536
I'm sure the bearings are seated in the hub so that's not an issue. I'll check to see if it has too much neg camber. lol I've not set it up on the board yet, but I measured the camber links per the instructions. I'll check again. I checked it and it's not the camber links.
I think I figured it out. The inner toe block option is shorter than the separate toe blocks. It leaves much less room for the cvds and binds up the drive train. Nice...I'll have to shim it some more, but I can't say that I'm happy. Be prepared to buy new 50mm cvds if you use the optional toe block and desire to keep the stock width. Are the T3 arms longer than the old 008? I'm trying to get an idea if my wheels will be under the body.
I think I figured it out. The inner toe block option is shorter than the separate toe blocks. It leaves much less room for the cvds and binds up the drive train. Nice...I'll have to shim it some more, but I can't say that I'm happy. Be prepared to buy new 50mm cvds if you use the optional toe block and desire to keep the stock width. Are the T3 arms longer than the old 008? I'm trying to get an idea if my wheels will be under the body.
Last edited by RCknight; 12-01-2010 at 06:01 AM.
12-01-2010, 04:28 AM
#537
here is my DIY nt1 diff to me it looks a good job.I done slight mods so i could fit lighter out drive in as is very heavy with stock out drive the weight came in at 30gr with metal gears so i think that's as best you can get it without Capricorn gears.
Attachment 673818
Attachment 673819
Attachment 673831
Attachment 673832
Attachment 673818
Attachment 673819
Attachment 673831
Attachment 673832
you may also want to try putting the pulley on the other side of the diff and use a good epoxy to fix it. way so much better in looks factor. i'll try to grab a snapshot of what i mean by "way looks better"
12-01-2010, 08:50 AM
#539
not sure what epoxy was used on the diff i saw built that way...
on my build, was thinking of devcon... dunno if it will hold.. will see
on my build, was thinking of devcon... dunno if it will hold.. will see
12-01-2010, 11:13 AM
#540
If you put the gear on the other side it has nothing to key off of to center the gear. When your making the gear to attach to the center section, as your removing material, the gear will actually key into the bumps from the internal gears of the center section, to the point that it self centers and has very little run out. On the other side you could also have issues with lining up with the idler pulley.