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Old 01-22-2013, 10:13 PM   #1636
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Ofna gtp2
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:48 PM   #1637
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Ofna gtp2
Very nice. I initially installed the window decals but eventually took them off. For some reason, it looked toyish. But after seeing yours, I'm thinking I should have left them on. Great looking GTP you have there. Plain and simple.

I finally completed my GTP2-E. Just wanted to share some pictures:






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Old 01-22-2013, 11:28 PM   #1638
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I want to lower the ride height and would like to ask for your assistance. Well, if I stiffen up the springs by adjusting the collar, the ride height increases right?

What I am supposed to do? Should I buy stiffer springs? Which one?

Or do I just move the lower shock mount to the outer holes and the upper mount to the inner holes?
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:10 AM   #1639
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put a picture that shows on each arm is a screw that can be set using the height to body
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:18 AM   #1640
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Originally Posted by ducatiti View Post
I want to lower the ride height and would like to ask for your assistance. Well, if I stiffen up the springs by adjusting the collar, the ride height increases right?

What I am supposed to do? Should I buy stiffer springs? Which one?

Or do I just move the lower shock mount to the outer holes and the upper mount to the inner holes?
put a picture that shows on each arm is a screw that can be set using the height to body
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:38 AM   #1641
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Basic problem with those cars is that they are "buggy based" design. That means they do use the suspensionparts and their link points given in the original buggy design beeing optimised for a good ride height.

So if you look at the equivilant buggy you will see the lower arms pointing something like 10 to 15 ° down. The ride height will be 40 to 50 mm.

The GT lower arms are normaly nearly horizontal or slightly upwards, still having a ride height of around 25 - 30 mm.

To get it down to something like 6 - 8 mm front and 8 - 10 mm rear is difficult to achive with the parts out of the box. You might need other springs and or mounting points to do so.

One easy way to get 5 mm is using other tires. Donīt know what the outer diameter of the OFNA one is, supose it is 106 mm like the others from same manfacturer.

As an exaple PMT (Italy) and Kyosho ones are only 96 mm, just FYI.
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Old 01-23-2013, 06:54 AM   #1642
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Take a peek at the specs on the Associated SC8. i run one on my ERBE-gt. Might be able to finesse the wheel wells to work.

Might be a touch too long though.

*** no way will it fit. tried it once i got home. Not a chance. Forget i ever mentioned it ****
Yeah, the SC8s are skinny truggys, and most the the true 1/8 scale SCTs are 350mm or so... The Blitz body is close. It would leave maybe a 1/16th to an 1/8th of the tire out in front. Pretty sure that redcat body will work, but it's not the best looking truck body out there. Body mounts came in so I can start playing with some different ones... Some of the 2wd slashes have huge front wheel arches... might be an option.



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Originally Posted by ducatiti View Post
Very nice. I initially installed the window decals but eventually took them off. For some reason, it looked toyish.
Use night shades... it's tint for tail lights. Will make the windows look tinted, and better than the stickers.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ducatiti View Post
I want to lower the ride height and would like to ask for your assistance. Well, if I stiffen up the springs by adjusting the collar, the ride height increases right?

What I am supposed to do? Should I buy stiffer springs? Which one?

Or do I just move the lower shock mount to the outer holes and the upper mount to the inner holes?
Lower the body.
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:58 AM   #1643
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put a picture that shows on each arm is a screw that can be set using the height to body
Isn't that the adjustment for camber?
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Old 01-23-2013, 08:59 AM   #1644
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Yeah, the SC8s are skinny truggys, and most the the true 1/8 scale SCTs are 350mm or so... The Blitz body is close. It would leave maybe a 1/16th to an 1/8th of the tire out in front. Pretty sure that redcat body will work, but it's not the best looking truck body out there. Body mounts came in so I can start playing with some different ones... Some of the 2wd slashes have huge front wheel arches... might be an option.





Use night shades... it's tint for tail lights. Will make the windows look tinted, and better than the stickers.



Lower the body.
Can't get ant lower. Body already hitting the shock tower on the rear.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:03 AM   #1645
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Isn't that the adjustment for camber?
What he is talking about are droop screws. They limit the down travel of the suspension, which would make the car lower. But limiting droop on these cars will add a lot of preload to the springs and make them way more stiff, which will make the car a little unpredictable... Too stiff in the rear and you have a ton of over steer. Too stiff in the front and you will push... too stiff front and rear and the car will be hard to control at all, especially with a center spool.

Converting my spool to diff, btw. Car is too twitchy for me with the spool. And our track is too dusty.

All that said, I didn't notice droop screws on my car.

Edit: Looked at the manual, there are indeed droop screws.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:09 AM   #1646
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Can't get ant lower. Body already hitting the shock tower on the rear.
Ahhh... didn't think of that. derp. So yeah, just crank the droop screws down. That will make it lower. That is what I do to my short course truck when I run it on road. But they already have way soft springs compared to these so the extra preload doesn't hurt. But for just cruising around, and speed runs, it will be fine.
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Old 01-23-2013, 09:10 AM   #1647
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Quote:
Can't get ant lower. Body already hitting the shock tower on the rear.
What is the ride height you currently have ?

Measured between surface and chassis rear and front.
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Old 01-24-2013, 08:20 PM   #1648
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So I installed my new Hobbywing Xerun 150a and Tenshock 2100kv 6pole motor.

Upon a very light tap of the throttle, it makes this stuttering sound as seen on the video.

Again, this can be neglible if I don't press the trigger this lightly. Is this normal?



Also, at the end of the video, you will see slop on the front end on full throttle. Is this normal and what can be done? What and how do I shim?

Thank you in advance.
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Old 01-25-2013, 12:52 AM   #1649
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The balooning of the tire does look frightening. Would not try to go for a speedrun with those.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:44 AM   #1650
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So I installed my new Hobbywing Xerun 150a and Tenshock 2100kv 6pole motor.

Upon a very light tap of the throttle, it makes this stuttering sound as seen on the video.

Yes. Normal for unsensored. And you will most likely never have an issue with it when the car is on the ground. If you switch to a sensored motor, that will go away.

I'd leave it the way it is. IMO, unsensored is more reliable, runs cooler, and longer... It just doesn't work with every setup.

As for the slop, without even watching the rest of the video, I'm guessing it's on the upper control arms. Almost looks like there could be another shim on the hinge pin. You would need to file the upper arm to fit one in, I think.

That said, a little bit of slop is good, especially for a high speed car. You don't want the steering to be too twitchy, which is what will happen if that little amount of slop was gone.

Edit: Your servo horn is moving. That's not slop. Nothing should make the servo move except the input from the controller. Something going on there for sure. What servo is it? Is the horn tight?
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