2LikesXray T3 2011
05-09-2011, 05:44 PM
#2147
Haha of course!
Part 1!
Get yourself the following:
33 5050 1 NT1 Rear Gear Diff
33 5081 1 aluminum hardcoated pins
33 5072 1 LW rear diff outdrives
RCA88102 1 LW gears
30 5058 1 38 tooth diff pulley
2-56 cap head screws x 4
small shim washers that just fit over the 2-56 screws ... you will need about 2.5 mm spacing per screw.
chuck the steel gears/pins
Dremel off the pulley on the gear diff... some people have creatively used a tire truer or drill press, but it can be done with a dremel.
Be careful to just take the actual teeth off the case... leave that center spline as intact as possible.
Next, dremel out the inside of the tc diff gear so that it just barely fits over the closed side of the diff housing. I would recommend using some small, high speed bits for this process.
Work slowly and take off small bits at a time until the fit is relatively snug... if you dremel off too much it can be difficult getting the gear to sit true on the diff housing.
TO BE CONTINUED!!
Part 1!
Get yourself the following:
33 5050 1 NT1 Rear Gear Diff
33 5081 1 aluminum hardcoated pins
33 5072 1 LW rear diff outdrives
RCA88102 1 LW gears
30 5058 1 38 tooth diff pulley
2-56 cap head screws x 4
small shim washers that just fit over the 2-56 screws ... you will need about 2.5 mm spacing per screw.
chuck the steel gears/pins
Dremel off the pulley on the gear diff... some people have creatively used a tire truer or drill press, but it can be done with a dremel.
Be careful to just take the actual teeth off the case... leave that center spline as intact as possible.
Next, dremel out the inside of the tc diff gear so that it just barely fits over the closed side of the diff housing. I would recommend using some small, high speed bits for this process.
Work slowly and take off small bits at a time until the fit is relatively snug... if you dremel off too much it can be difficult getting the gear to sit true on the diff housing.
TO BE CONTINUED!!
05-09-2011, 06:09 PM
#2148
Tech Regular
iTrader: (11)
Here is what I see when trying to adjust the rear motor screw. The button head screw will not fit through the the large hole on the 96 spur gear and I don't have enough room to insert the driver to adjust the rear screw either.
light
05-09-2011, 08:10 PM
#2150
05-09-2011, 09:21 PM
#2151
NT1 gear diff conversion.
Pics as requested, no glue with this setup.
Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-24-2011 at 09:36 AM.
05-09-2011, 09:23 PM
#2152
More pics
Diff pics.
Last edited by Johnny Wishbone; 09-24-2011 at 09:36 AM.
05-09-2011, 09:40 PM
#2153
05-09-2011, 10:44 PM
#2155
05-10-2011, 12:23 AM
#2156
Tech Addict
Its a pain. I race silvercan(stock) & I even needed to file down the motor
mount to get a silvercans endbell to fit.
The lower ratio pully option also makes things alot easier, you then use a bigger spur , that helps push the motor over a bit for easier access to that
%*&%$ screw
05-10-2011, 12:26 AM
#2157
Try and get a ball driver with a thin shaft, not one that tapers down to 2mm. Every bit helps
Its a pain. I race silvercan(stock) & I even needed to file down the motor
mount to get a silvercans endbell to fit.
The lower ratio pully option also makes things alot easier, you then use a bigger spur , that helps push the motor over a bit for easier access to that
%*&%$ screw
Its a pain. I race silvercan(stock) & I even needed to file down the motor
mount to get a silvercans endbell to fit.
The lower ratio pully option also makes things alot easier, you then use a bigger spur , that helps push the motor over a bit for easier access to that
%*&%$ screw
05-10-2011, 12:27 AM
#2158
Hey Phil,
Regarding the comparison between the converted NT1 and spec R gear diff:
I have run both, and I do believe that the NT1 conversion is better for the following reasons: much higher quality finish/parts fit, smoother intial build and subsequent consistant action after breaking in, less tendancy of leaking.
The spec r costs less and is more of a "finished product" ... the conversion costs quite a bit more and will take some careful hand finishing of parts.
So, if you like dremeling/hand finishing parts, and the cost isn't prohibbitive for you, I'd say the nt1 conversion is a good direction to go... if you just want something cheap and easy to just drop in your car and go ... go with the Spec R.
If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!
Regarding the comparison between the converted NT1 and spec R gear diff:
I have run both, and I do believe that the NT1 conversion is better for the following reasons: much higher quality finish/parts fit, smoother intial build and subsequent consistant action after breaking in, less tendancy of leaking.
The spec r costs less and is more of a "finished product" ... the conversion costs quite a bit more and will take some careful hand finishing of parts.
So, if you like dremeling/hand finishing parts, and the cost isn't prohibbitive for you, I'd say the nt1 conversion is a good direction to go... if you just want something cheap and easy to just drop in your car and go ... go with the Spec R.
If you have any more specific questions feel free to let me know!
05-10-2011, 12:55 AM
#2159
so is this pretty much the same diff you can buy at rcmarket?
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139
http://rcmarket.com.hk/product_info....ducts_id=10139