2LikesXray T3 2011
11-15-2010, 07:05 AM
#811
You just drill a 1mm hole through the cap.
by drilling a hole in it is much easier to obtain 0% rebound.
by drilling a hole in it is much easier to obtain 0% rebound.
11-15-2010, 08:06 AM
#813
Anyone tried a kimbrough servo saver on the t3'11?
11-15-2010, 11:56 AM
#814
I find that after initial assembly, I'll run the shocks a couple of times just checking for squish noise, if they sound alright I'll run them a few more times and then re-do them. I think that there could be some trapped air that no matter what only comes out after using them a bit. So I would agree with you.
11-15-2010, 12:03 PM
#815
11-15-2010, 12:13 PM
#816
Just wondering if you guys had to file the top deck for motor clearence issues, and thats why the top decks are more fragile?
11-15-2010, 12:27 PM
#817
Thanks for the tip mate 
Yep, was easy to get even on every shock too
The orings also need to swell and then bed in and that takes a couple of days/runs. I found the first time I built them I couldn't get them air free with the shock pump, but it wasn't an issue second time around.
Yep, was easy to get even on every shock too
I find that after initial assembly, I'll run the shocks a couple of times just checking for squish noise, if they sound alright I'll run them a few more times and then re-do them. I think that there could be some trapped air that no matter what only comes out after using them a bit. So I would agree with you.
11-15-2010, 12:32 PM
#818
I haven't tried it yet, decided to give the kit saver one more go, but I lined the two up next to each other and the key dimensions are almost identical so it should fit straight on. Some people say the kimbrough is too soft but I don't think it is any softer than the kit one, and the kimbrough's always centre properly!
11-15-2010, 02:08 PM
#819
Tech Apprentice
Hi, I'm a newbie to RC touring cars. I just bought an T3R to start with. I've a few 'beginners' questions:
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed).
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet).
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue.
Thx for helping me out.
Serge (Belgium)
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed).
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet).
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue.
Thx for helping me out.
Serge (Belgium)
11-15-2010, 02:37 PM
#820
Hi, I'm a newbie to RC touring cars. I just bought an T3R to start with. I've a few 'beginners' questions:
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed). Usually the diff is pre-built so no need to do anything at the moment. When the time comes you can prep the diff rings with wet/dry sandpaper.
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet). The syringe is diff grease.
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'. They are suppose to be pre-i=oiled but I still redo mine to be safe.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue. The ring should snap into place, no glue is necessary.
Thx for helping me out.
Serge (Belgium)
1) I've read somewhere that the diff washers need to be rubbed on sandpaper to be perfectly flat (is this needed). Usually the diff is pre-built so no need to do anything at the moment. When the time comes you can prep the diff rings with wet/dry sandpaper.
2) silicone oil is included in the kit and a syringe with ... diff grease or bearing oil (I just didn't open it yet). The syringe is diff grease.
3) do we need to oil the bearings or are they supposed to be 'factory oiled'. They feel a little 'gritty'. They are suppose to be pre-i=oiled but I still redo mine to be safe.
4) composite front solid axle : do we just press the ring onto the ring pulley or do we use some CA-glue. The ring should snap into place, no glue is necessary.
Thx for helping me out.
Serge (Belgium)
11-15-2010, 05:13 PM
#821
I haven't tried it yet, decided to give the kit saver one more go, but I lined the two up next to each other and the key dimensions are almost identical so it should fit straight on. Some people say the kimbrough is too soft but I don't think it is any softer than the kit one, and the kimbrough's always centre properly!
11-15-2010, 06:58 PM
#823
The only problem I can expect is the screwing on of the ball end. As the xray's servo saver is thick, it only needs to be screwed in. However, I would suspect one would need to tie a nut to the other side of the ball end to secure the ball end to the kimbrough servo saver. What will then happen is the nut might hit the upper deck. Hmm...
11-15-2010, 07:50 PM
#824
The only problem I can expect is the screwing on of the ball end. As the xray's servo saver is thick, it only needs to be screwed in. However, I would suspect one would need to tie a nut to the other side of the ball end to secure the ball end to the kimbrough servo saver. What will then happen is the nut might hit the upper deck. Hmm...
11-15-2010, 09:52 PM
#825
Yup! Thanks Johnny. Actually, I disassembled my car to do a further diagnosis of what happened. I realized I wrongly blamed the servo saver. It was not the fault of the servo saver that gave me centering issues.
What actually happened was that one of the collars for the steering knuckle actually got a little out of shape. I am guessing that probably I did a bad job during assembly of the steering knuckle when I was rushing and did not check that it was moving smoothly. Maybe there was some binding and continuously, it made the collar go out of shape and caused an even worse binding issue.
Now I am wondering how much faster I can go with the steering issues fixed but I am waiting on my new upper deck. I am inclined to still think the upper deck failure was an unfortunate one but I think we can all conclude that the upper deck near the recess area is really thin and that one really stresses the upper deck a lot when running super soft flex setting. I will be aware of that and run medium soft next time.
What actually happened was that one of the collars for the steering knuckle actually got a little out of shape. I am guessing that probably I did a bad job during assembly of the steering knuckle when I was rushing and did not check that it was moving smoothly. Maybe there was some binding and continuously, it made the collar go out of shape and caused an even worse binding issue.
Now I am wondering how much faster I can go with the steering issues fixed but I am waiting on my new upper deck. I am inclined to still think the upper deck failure was an unfortunate one but I think we can all conclude that the upper deck near the recess area is really thin and that one really stresses the upper deck a lot when running super soft flex setting. I will be aware of that and run medium soft next time.