2LikesXray T3 2011
12-13-2011, 01:41 PM
#3841
Its kind of one of those deals with the new speed controls and brushless motors so many people are concerned with gearing for a temp or for the maximum fdr that they can get into a car. Your track looks pretty short and the car seems to want to keep accelerating at the end of the straight. If you dropped one tooth you'd get a little more squirt out of the corners and come on the power a little sooner without the big surge at the end. The other bonus is in most cases the whole deal will run cooler too. One tooth may not be enough could be two, but ideally you want the car done accelerating 3/4 of the straight. This will also make it feel more stable in braking zone and entry of corner. A good example of this is trying to run fast with a boosted setup where the boost is still spooling when your in the brake zone, just makes a mess of the corner, usually over shooting or slowing too soon and having a more unstable car.
Just don't get caught in that number trap and you'll be ok. BTW your driving looks better every video I see.
Your VTA looks pretty good too but thats a totally different chassis tuning deal.
Just don't get caught in that number trap and you'll be ok. BTW your driving looks better every video I see.
Your VTA looks pretty good too but thats a totally different chassis tuning deal.
12-13-2011, 02:39 PM
#3842
Mera'din,
It actually looked to me like your TC needed more rear-end grip, or less front. It was rotating around the front wheels, and looked loose, but also oddly understeery at points (under power maybe?), too.
I'll refrain from trying to give setup advice, since I don't drive XRay, and I'm not very good with setup, anyway. :P
Although, I will say... with VTA, when faced with a loose car on entry, I've found that actually reducing rear toe can help a little. Also, moving weight forward a bit can help, too. For example, I went to a larger spur / pinion on my Mi4LP to move the motor a couple millimeters forward.
Honestly, though, I've found the single most important thing for VTA is to make sure your tires are well cleaned, and well sauced.
-Mike
It actually looked to me like your TC needed more rear-end grip, or less front. It was rotating around the front wheels, and looked loose, but also oddly understeery at points (under power maybe?), too.
I'll refrain from trying to give setup advice, since I don't drive XRay, and I'm not very good with setup, anyway. :P
Although, I will say... with VTA, when faced with a loose car on entry, I've found that actually reducing rear toe can help a little. Also, moving weight forward a bit can help, too. For example, I went to a larger spur / pinion on my Mi4LP to move the motor a couple millimeters forward.
Honestly, though, I've found the single most important thing for VTA is to make sure your tires are well cleaned, and well sauced.
-Mike
12-13-2011, 06:31 PM
#3844
Mera'din,
It actually looked to me like your TC needed more rear-end grip, or less front. It was rotating around the front wheels, and looked loose, but also oddly understeery at points (under power maybe?), too.
I'll refrain from trying to give setup advice, since I don't drive XRay, and I'm not very good with setup, anyway. :P
Although, I will say... with VTA, when faced with a loose car on entry, I've found that actually reducing rear toe can help a little. Also, moving weight forward a bit can help, too. For example, I went to a larger spur / pinion on my Mi4LP to move the motor a couple millimeters forward.
Honestly, though, I've found the single most important thing for VTA is to make sure your tires are well cleaned, and well sauced.
-Mike
It actually looked to me like your TC needed more rear-end grip, or less front. It was rotating around the front wheels, and looked loose, but also oddly understeery at points (under power maybe?), too.
I'll refrain from trying to give setup advice, since I don't drive XRay, and I'm not very good with setup, anyway. :P
Although, I will say... with VTA, when faced with a loose car on entry, I've found that actually reducing rear toe can help a little. Also, moving weight forward a bit can help, too. For example, I went to a larger spur / pinion on my Mi4LP to move the motor a couple millimeters forward.
Honestly, though, I've found the single most important thing for VTA is to make sure your tires are well cleaned, and well sauced.
-Mike
As far as the handling goes, I would say that both cars turn around the front. Any setup for that? I may keep the kit setups and just drive the snot out of them. then readjust.
Or, would going to the lower roll center in the rear help? As far as traction roll goes I think I can drive around that as it only really happended when I over drove the car and I also think evening out the EPA will help with that.
On the hudy quick reference table (I know, I know...it is junk) it lists changing the roll bars as the number onw thing to change in almost every situation. If I were to make a roll bar change, it looks like going with a softer rear would help with the over steer.
Would this add to the the traction roll problem though?
Last edited by Meradin; 12-14-2011 at 07:49 AM.
12-14-2011, 07:59 AM
#3845
Thanks, I appreciate all the help. Getting the car setup helps a lot too and I have racers like you and all the others that have helped a good deal of thanks!
Gonna try and drop a pinion size for Friday. Kinda forgot about the top speed at 3/4 straight advice I read. It was funny, I had a huge pinion in there for the large track I sometimes race at and dropped from a 45 to a 38. I was really worried about the speed and not being able to keep up. Guess I was wrong. In the video I was at a 5.2 FDR. Gonna try a 5.3.
If I like the smaller gear I may get a larger spur/smaller pinion to move the motor forward a bit as it is creaping back the smaller I go.
12-14-2011, 08:02 AM
#3846
P.S. The only reason I seem to be hung up on the roll bar change is that it is easy. I only need to change the roll bar. If I change the roll center blocks I need to go through and redo my entire setup. Practice time and setup time is really limited for me.
One thing I need to address, either by a driving adjustment, or a setup adjustment is coming out of the turns, especially the last turn before the straight.
When you watch the video you can see that I am on power as I come under the gate and then accelerate from there. After I round the corner the car seems to be pointing towards the inner wall, like I have turned too far. This happens on botht he VTA and TC.
Is this a driving mistake, staying in the turn too long and not accelerating soon enough?
Or is the a handling thing where the car hasn't rolled back fast enough and still wants to be in the turn; i.e., weight on the outside tires?
One thing I need to address, either by a driving adjustment, or a setup adjustment is coming out of the turns, especially the last turn before the straight.
When you watch the video you can see that I am on power as I come under the gate and then accelerate from there. After I round the corner the car seems to be pointing towards the inner wall, like I have turned too far. This happens on botht he VTA and TC.
Is this a driving mistake, staying in the turn too long and not accelerating soon enough?
Or is the a handling thing where the car hasn't rolled back fast enough and still wants to be in the turn; i.e., weight on the outside tires?
12-14-2011, 11:29 AM
#3848
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12-15-2011, 01:51 AM
#3849
P.S. The only reason I seem to be hung up on the roll bar change is that it is easy. I only need to change the roll bar. If I change the roll center blocks I need to go through and redo my entire setup. Practice time and setup time is really limited for me.
One thing I need to address, either by a driving adjustment, or a setup adjustment is coming out of the turns, especially the last turn before the straight.
When you watch the video you can see that I am on power as I come under the gate and then accelerate from there. After I round the corner the car seems to be pointing towards the inner wall, like I have turned too far. This happens on botht he VTA and TC.
Is this a driving mistake, staying in the turn too long and not accelerating soon enough?
Or is the a handling thing where the car hasn't rolled back fast enough and still wants to be in the turn; i.e., weight on the outside tires?
One thing I need to address, either by a driving adjustment, or a setup adjustment is coming out of the turns, especially the last turn before the straight.
When you watch the video you can see that I am on power as I come under the gate and then accelerate from there. After I round the corner the car seems to be pointing towards the inner wall, like I have turned too far. This happens on botht he VTA and TC.
Is this a driving mistake, staying in the turn too long and not accelerating soon enough?
Or is the a handling thing where the car hasn't rolled back fast enough and still wants to be in the turn; i.e., weight on the outside tires?
12-15-2011, 02:10 AM
#3850
Not sure why you would pay $25 for chassis balancing weights when you can get the same thing from a local car garage or tyre place for free or a couple of dollars. I have honestly never seen anyone use these weights, everyone I know uses the car wheel balancing weights
12-15-2011, 03:24 AM
#3851
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Hello can one of the Xray enthusiast please answer my question?
I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?
Many thanks in advance...!
I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?
Many thanks in advance...!
12-15-2011, 07:42 AM
#3852
Hello can one of the Xray enthusiast please answer my question?
I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?
Many thanks in advance...!
I purchased some custom painted bodies and was intending on running them on a x ray t2 008 that i never ended up getting. I want to sell the custom painted bodies but I want to make sure that what I put in my description is correct. Can someone tell me if all of the xray bodies hole patters line up all of the T-2 and T-3 also will this hole pattern fit on any other chassis from another brand like the TRF 416 or 417?
Many thanks in advance...!
It is close enough to run the body with holes for one on the other but it will involve bending the posts slightly to make it fit.
No idea about other manufactures.
12-18-2011, 01:17 PM
#3854
Hi Guys,
I finally managed to get some test time with my T3 2011. I tried short and long camber link in the front with the L1+L2 blocks.
The long link made the car very responsive/twitchy and I had a lot of steering. The short link was actually even more responsive but less agressive/twitchy and the steering was reduced. I felt that I should be in the middle... I don't feel like upgrading my second 2011 with the 2012 bulkheads to be able to use the middle holes. I wonder how the H1 and H2 blocks compare to the L1 and L2 blocks in the front?
I was quite fast with the setup, but it's too sensitive for small mistakes. The rear end spins out too quickly when I make a little mistake. Although there was not a single 17.5T at the track that could keep up with me
This was my 3rd time that I drove onroad so I ordered a 10.5T motor to make it a bit more challenging. The biggest class over here is 17.5T boosted, but I like a bit more bottom end. I'll practice with the 10.5T and race with my 17.5T.
I finally managed to get some test time with my T3 2011. I tried short and long camber link in the front with the L1+L2 blocks.
The long link made the car very responsive/twitchy and I had a lot of steering. The short link was actually even more responsive but less agressive/twitchy and the steering was reduced. I felt that I should be in the middle... I don't feel like upgrading my second 2011 with the 2012 bulkheads to be able to use the middle holes. I wonder how the H1 and H2 blocks compare to the L1 and L2 blocks in the front?
I was quite fast with the setup, but it's too sensitive for small mistakes. The rear end spins out too quickly when I make a little mistake. Although there was not a single 17.5T at the track that could keep up with me
This was my 3rd time that I drove onroad so I ordered a 10.5T motor to make it a bit more challenging. The biggest class over here is 17.5T boosted, but I like a bit more bottom end. I'll practice with the 10.5T and race with my 17.5T.
12-18-2011, 02:20 PM
#3855
Hi Guys,
I finally managed to get some test time with my T3 2011. I tried short and long camber link in the front with the L1+L2 blocks.
The long link made the car very responsive/twitchy and I had a lot of steering. The short link was actually even more responsive but less agressive/twitchy and the steering was reduced. I felt that I should be in the middle... I don't feel like upgrading my second 2011 with the 2012 bulkheads to be able to use the middle holes. I wonder how the H1 and H2 blocks compare to the L1 and L2 blocks in the front?
I was quite fast with the setup, but it's too sensitive for small mistakes. The rear end spins out too quickly when I make a little mistake. Although there was not a single 17.5T at the track that could keep up with me
This was my 3rd time that I drove onroad so I ordered a 10.5T motor to make it a bit more challenging. The biggest class over here is 17.5T boosted, but I like a bit more bottom end. I'll practice with the 10.5T and race with my 17.5T.
I finally managed to get some test time with my T3 2011. I tried short and long camber link in the front with the L1+L2 blocks.
The long link made the car very responsive/twitchy and I had a lot of steering. The short link was actually even more responsive but less agressive/twitchy and the steering was reduced. I felt that I should be in the middle... I don't feel like upgrading my second 2011 with the 2012 bulkheads to be able to use the middle holes. I wonder how the H1 and H2 blocks compare to the L1 and L2 blocks in the front?
I was quite fast with the setup, but it's too sensitive for small mistakes. The rear end spins out too quickly when I make a little mistake. Although there was not a single 17.5T at the track that could keep up with me
This was my 3rd time that I drove onroad so I ordered a 10.5T motor to make it a bit more challenging. The biggest class over here is 17.5T boosted, but I like a bit more bottom end. I'll practice with the 10.5T and race with my 17.5T.
