2LikesXray T3 2011
01-07-2011, 02:25 PM
#1231
I think 100 would be prime, I've used 94 and 96 and have to change when going to boosted. Also ran 104 and had to change that when running to non-boosted, sssssoooooo, I think 100 would be about the best of both worlds, maybe fall short on each end of the gearing spectrum, but maybe a little less wrench time for the most part.
01-07-2011, 02:33 PM
#1233
Maybe try to get one from Korgae.
01-07-2011, 03:12 PM
#1234
Spurs
I'm running 64p RW "xray" spurs in a 92 and 94 with 45-49t pinions to get down as low as 3.4-ish. Boosted, I'd have to go back up to 100t spurs. Nexus has them in stock I believe
I am going to run the "non boosted" 17.5 class since it seems to be the most popular right now where I'm at. I have all the 64 pitch stuff but can't seem to find a combo that fits to get down to around 3.5-3.7 final drive. Am I to assume the only way to do this is to get some 48 pitch stuff? What pinion/spur combo fits good with the minimal motor adjustment? Thanks in advance for the help everyone.
01-07-2011, 03:28 PM
#1235
I got all the 64p xray spurs including the 100 so I will test and tune tonight and post the min & max pinion with the 100 spur. I have all the pinions from 22t - 44t but never got anything bigger because I never planned on running non-boost 
TQ Raceway in Chino has the bigger pinions, so stand by until this evening 
TQ Raceway in Chino has the bigger pinions, so stand by until this evening
01-07-2011, 05:27 PM
#1236
what shock oils do you guys recommed (Xray accours) to pick up, the car will be mainly ran on asphalt.
01-08-2011, 09:31 PM
#1240
Thanks Fred
01-09-2011, 11:21 AM
#1241
finished building my '11 mid december and have used it a 4 meetings now on carpet.
To begin with at the 2 larger tracks in our area i found it to be very inconsistent. However after breaking a drive shaft pin on my ecs driveshafts i decided to strip and rebuild the car. what i found was a sticky upper camber link on the L1 rear, with a replacement found from my spares movement was free and easy again. i then turned my diffs upside down, used the +0.75 roll centre's at the front and put ceramic bearings all round including the diff balls.i kept the rest to basic set up. Since then i have raced the car at 2 smaller tracks and taken tq at both and gone on to take both wins by over 2 laps. after sorting out the small niggle i'm very impressed with the new car and it is now better than my 009.
i have a big meeting this weekend and am looking forward to running the car again. i still use the 009 for 17.5 class which is still a very good car but can't wait to put the 13.5 '11 down even tho i'm 3rd out of 34 in the 17.5 class and only 10th out of 44 in the 13.5.
To begin with at the 2 larger tracks in our area i found it to be very inconsistent. However after breaking a drive shaft pin on my ecs driveshafts i decided to strip and rebuild the car. what i found was a sticky upper camber link on the L1 rear, with a replacement found from my spares movement was free and easy again. i then turned my diffs upside down, used the +0.75 roll centre's at the front and put ceramic bearings all round including the diff balls.i kept the rest to basic set up. Since then i have raced the car at 2 smaller tracks and taken tq at both and gone on to take both wins by over 2 laps. after sorting out the small niggle i'm very impressed with the new car and it is now better than my 009.
i have a big meeting this weekend and am looking forward to running the car again. i still use the 009 for 17.5 class which is still a very good car but can't wait to put the 13.5 '11 down even tho i'm 3rd out of 34 in the 17.5 class and only 10th out of 44 in the 13.5.
01-21-2011, 10:01 AM
#1244
Sorry Fred.
Picture is not up to snuff to allow me to determine what "these" are...LOL
Bill
Picture is not up to snuff to allow me to determine what "these" are...LOL
Bill
