mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

Can anyone help me out - I'm having no luck getting any sort of direct steering and grip in the front end. Entry, mid and exit. Rear seems fairly locked in.

Have basically been running the kit setup since new and always had this problem. At first it was good cause easy to drive, but I'm getting people turn under me on every corner.

Setup is all screws on the top deck, 5 and 5.5mm rear ride height, 1.5mm camber all round, 0.5 and 3mm shims on the outside camber arms (had to drop as was getting rub action on the inside of wheel rims..), hav increased droop to 5 and 4mm in rear.

Anyone hav a suggestion on where to start???

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

You need to go back to 4 or 5mm shims on the outside of the rear camber link, which will really help free up the back end. Use a pipe reamer to clearance the inside of your rims so it won't rub on the link. Also, use the lower inner camber link mounting position.

I'd also try 3mm droop (over ride height) all the way around, and do you have any ackerman or bump steer shims?

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

What tires are you running and what surface? There are so many setups on the xray site it's helpful to download a bunch and look for similarities. It could be as simple as running one step softer springs all around, or running less rear toe.

mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

I have added an extra 1mm under the steering knuckles (outside of steering link arms) for a total of 3mm I think.

Running on rubber / asphalt, small to medium track size, medium grip. Front is 2 degrees toe out. Using Ride 28's, have tried 32's, muchmore 32's etc, most others having good success with all of these tyres.

Essentially, it feels like I'm pushing lubed up front wheels around the track.

I'll try raising the outside rear camber links and maybe lowering the inside. Should I do this for front and rear of the car? Also, what effect does reducing rear toe have?

Someone else also suggested softer springs so might get some to try and see if that helps.

elee32

iTrader: (18)

Try less front toe out, .5 or 1 degree. Flipping the l1 and l2 to the lower inner hole should help too

rdlkgliders

iTrader: (21)

Hi Guys.
I posted this reply in the t3 12 thread also as I am not sure where it fits, once I am more clear on the propper thread I will only post in that thread (sorry)
I purhased a t311 with the vbc flex chassis kit which includes the E/W servo mount and I also have the more traditonal rollcenter mounts like the tamiya or serpent.
Anyway I need a begining setup for the car. It will be raced by my 8 year old son, we race outdoor asphalt low traction and very tight.
Thanks
Don

MikeXray

iTrader: (73)

If the setup feels that bad, I would usually go with a complete setup change. If the front isn't biting at all, I'm going to guess it isn't rolling enough. What is your droop set too? You may have to just try setups in 2 different directions until you figure out what works.

rshair

iTrader: (1)

assume you are running spool front? for me spool tends to understeer. i am also running on asphalt, low-medium grip and medium track outdoors. without buying anything you can:
1. run kit setup 350 cst with 3 holes front and rear unless you are running that already. you can try 4 holes to get more roll but too soft shocks leads to overheating tires then there is no grip
2. run short camber link in the front to increase the camber rise. static camber should be 1.5 deg all round. or adjust as you please.
3. run the -0.75 suspension arm holders to give more roll (front and rear), not a favorite but you will get more roll.
4. run the diffs in lower position
5. remove some of the screws from the top deck, you can try removing 2 from the rear first (the motor bulk heads) and then 2 from the front and see how it goes. more flex should give some grip
6. with some elbow grease you can cut the rear bit of the top deck and joins together near the motor end, there was a posting of this somewhere in this forum. worked for me.
7. reduce the wheelbase of the car on the rear, should get some better turn in. you can push in the rear anti roll bar so that it sticks out by 2 mm and push in the front anti roll bar as much as possible. some say it is better to reduce the wheelbase from the front rather than rear.
8. you can reduce the track width in the front a little but you need to experiment and find that balance. you may get something but you lose others.

if you plan to remove that spool, try a gear diff in the front, 150 k diff oil and adjust as you see fit. if you plan to buy then you can get the rear diff as well, get some springs, anti roll bars.

you can try soft inserts (even low profiles) to give you with more air gap.

MrRolla

iTrader: (30)

Is it better to adjust front track widith via shims or -0.75 wheel hexes? Looking to try this change next meet. Will the hexes cause the rims to rub on the camber link?

Also had a look at the standard rubber setup sheet on the Xray site and noticed it says to use 2mm shim under the steering knuckle to counteract bump steer. im not running these (got the car like that) but if i add these what change can i expect from the car?

Cheers

MrRolla

iTrader: (30)

Can anyone help please??

barnacle

iTrader: (9)

Using the hexes will be easier to change, plus you have to be careful when reducing with the shims to not pinch the blades on the diff under suspension compression if you reduce it to much. Using the shims will also change the roll characteristics since your moving the hingepin location.

If the tires rub, get a pipe reamer from the hardware store in plumbing department and remove the plastic inside the rim.

The 2mm shim on the knuckle/steering link reduces the bumpsteer to almost none. If you use less than 2mm your outside tire that is receiving the weight transfer will toe out under compression and reduce your steering arc. If you use more it will bump in and get more aggressive under load.



Hope that helps.

Jerz616

iTrader: (49)

Get the new hexes. If you put a shim on the outside between the hex and the wheel you won't have as much hex inside the wheel which can make it a tad weaker. With the new hex the outside of the hex will be flush with the wheel again.

MrRolla

iTrader: (30)

Thanks guys!!!

mrjeremyaaron

iTrader: (9)

Thanks all for your comments.

I solvd the problem by making the move from 21.5 blinky to 17.5 boosted class and returning the setup to kit. The new software had 10% drag brake as std, which suddenly gave the front the perfect amount of grip. Problem solved.

Looks like my power starved trigger finger was the issue all along.

aceinthesky

iTrader: (43)

what size ball joint pliers do i need for the xray t3 2011. i want the best one available so the tips of the pliers do not bend.