blade072

iTrader: (98)

quick question for those using the alu shocks....are you using the standard membranes and foam or the new low profile ones???

RC295

So, it better to use 5800mah for stock and 6200mah for mod race??
Anyone who already use 6200mah can tell if there any different in handling/performance bcs of extra height/weight than the 5800mah in stock/mod race. Can anyone advice me what i need to do to the kits if i buy the 6200mah lipo battery...

If you use 5800mah, need to use ballast to reach minimum weight.. What if i use 6200mah. no need to add ballast to reach minimum weight or it already overweight and need to rebalance it left/right weight?? Minimum weight for touring race in my place around 1400g. (sory for my english )

HarryLeach

You may need less ballast with a heavier battery, but on my car, all of my ballast is centered in the car, under the front belt. This makes adjusting the weight a lot easier (if the track scale shows very different from my scales), without changing the side-side percentages.

EAMotorsports

iTrader: (79)

http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/new...3531e77bd3ab97

Some more info on 2012. Looks like everyone is getting what they want except alumn shocks. All other stuff looks to be a welcome change!

EA

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

Even comes with a gear diff... awesome. Looking forward to getting the new kit.

Emil

From Hagberg:

Be sure to soak the o-rings in silicone oil when assembling the shocks. You must check them frequently so they don't break as well. The shocks will collect air inside after some time, this is normal.
I use the drilled top cap for both asphalt and carpet . I use the old membrane (big one). For carpet I recommend a rebound of 3 - 5mm as a starting point. For asphalt 0 - 3mm, unless the track has very high traction, then you might want to use slightly more. Also depends if its bumpy or not as less rebound always helps the car to drive better over bumps. There are many factors which will influence the choice of shock oil. Normally 400-500 CST is a good starting point for carpet. I never use the foam on top of the membrane since I feel that it simply takes away traction.

Emil

+1

kinga

iTrader: (15)

I run the alu shocks, No Foam and Low profile membranes. Would be difficult to get 0 rebound with the larger membranes I would think. Rebuilt them a few times and they are magic to rebuild, no pushy-pushy 500 times opening this and closing that to get the thing to 0 rebound. Set just as you would the tamiya shocks. Nice and simple

blade072

iTrader: (98)

thanks kinga and emil.....have started to build.....they are very nice and you also get the composite ones
and do you use the standard shock tops or the ones with the hole??

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

I'm actually coming back to the kit plastics, they seem to give more grip & I don't have trouble building them since Fred (I think) posted the tip about not tightening the caps too much - good tip!

kinga

iTrader: (15)

Its a fine line between not tightening the caps too much and having them so loose as when you adjust ride height it breaks free at the top of the shock and lets air in!
As has been said, once you have tried the alu and the composite shocks there are positives and negatives on both, and in performance, not alot. I find once the bladders swell they tend to "pop" into the alu shocks easier than the composites without dragging air in so can work around the fact that the xray bladders swell. I am enjoying the Alu shocks atm as they seem easier to build and have all the native xray mounting hardware.
I drill the hole in the shock top too

Skiddins

Perhaps there is a suitable shim somewhere which would act as a washer for the shock cap. So you can have the perfect sized gap to stop the bladder being pinched and yet be able to tighten the shock cap so it doesn't come undone when bits of grit ect get into the adjuster threads (this is always more of a problem when running on asphalt.

rx7ttlm

iTrader: (30)

No need for shims. Just don't gorilla torque the shock cap. I have yet to cut a bladder in several years...

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

It really, really helps if you sand or flat file the top of the shock body so its smooth and flat. If you look there is the smallest mold line still there when they are made and I think that the combination of that and over tightening of the top cap is the cause of the cutting of the bladders. I file the tops till the edge gives me the widest base for the bladder lip to sit/seat on.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

If you're wanting to do this, perhaps a larger "o" ring between the lip and the top cap would work.