Skiddins

The 'shim under the shock' bit means putting shims between the upper shock pivot ball and the shock tower.

The wheelbase settings are simple. Each box has several numders that can be ticked, these refer to the thickness of shim that is placed either; in front of the front wishbone, or in front of the rear wishbone.

If you look closely there is an arrow from the tick boxes which points to just in front of the wishbones at either end

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Got it, so you will never add spacers to the rear of the wishbones? This is confusing me. It seems like if I add a 1mm to the front of the front wishbone that there would be a gap then at the rear of the front wishbone.

How come some spacers are metel and others are not?

If we look at this setup sheet it looks like they are calling for no spacers in the front and a 2mm spacer in the rear, correct. Nothing is done to the rear of either of these arms correct?


Also to clarify, the spacer under the shock is for both the top and bottom of the shock ball links? On the above sheet it is calling for a 1.5mm spacer on the top and bottom of the front shock ball links correct?

Also on that sheet the front suspension holder is needing a 1.5mm shim while the rear of the front arm is calling for nothing? Wouldn't this put the arm into an angle towards the rear of the car?

And finally, the inboard toe. This is referring to the shims placed between the suspension arms and the holders correct? They have weird values like 1.9, 1.15, etc... Where do these numbers come from as my shims all are in increments of 1mm.

Sorry for all the questions!

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

Yes you will.

The front arms/wishbones have 2 spacers which are 1mm each. The setup sheet denotes which ones go in the front of the arm. The remaining shims go to the back of the arm.

The rear arms/wishbones have 2 spacers which are 1mm and 2mm. The setup sheet denotes which ones go in the front of the arm. The remaining shims go to the back of the arm.

Probably to save money. I use all metal spacers.

If you are referring to the basic setup sheet, it reads like this:

Front Arms: 0mm in front of the arm, 2mm (1mm + 1mm) in the back of the arm.
Rear Arms: 2mm shim in front of the arm, 1mm shim in the back of the arm.

Shim under shock, refers to the top ball link. It is mainly used, to make the shocks stand as straight as possible. Otherwise you would not be doing anything really by shiming out both top and bottom.

Yes it would. It's been a while since I saw the "Basic" setup sheet, because that is odd to me. I don't believe it use to be like that. I shim out the front by 2.25mm equally front/rear.

Yes. The rear of the holders. The kit should come with the 3x7.5x1.5mm shims, or at least it use to.

The values correspond to xray options parts,
303131 - 0.4
303132 - 0.75
303133 - 1.15
303134 - 1.5
1.9 = 1.5 shim + 0.4 shim

No problem.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

What are the benefits of the shim under the shock pivot ball? I think I remember Martin Hudy saying it gave more grip or steering in a forum somewhere but it was alll a little vague from memory

Skiddins

I seem to recall that the further foward the shock was, the smoother the steering.
A lot of people use the shims to make the shock vertical when looking from the side of your car.

Skiddins

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

It's to keep the shocks vertical (when looking from the side of the chassis) when you move the arms fore-aft to change the wheelbase.

Emil

From the manual:

Tech Tip :
To make the car more stable and easier to drive, move the rear shocks rearward. Stability increases mainly in chicanes. Note that the car will have less steering into corners.

• Upper mount (shock tower): Add a plastic nut and use a longer screw 3x8mm (NOT INCLUDED) to space the upper end of the shock away from the shock tower.
• Lower mount (lower arm): Add shims and use a longer setscrew 3x10mm (NOT INCLUDED) on the lower arms to space the lower end of the shock away from the arm.

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Thanks to you all! ByteStream, you are my hero as that explaination is what I needed to clear some very unclear thinking on my part.

My only remaining point of confusion (at least for now) is the shock shim thing. Two opposing points have been made. The manual looks to say shim both the top and bottom while others say just the top. I guess it really comes down to personal setup choices but I tend to think of things in black and white. One must be right or is my world about to come down?

Seriously, thanks everyone for being patient with me here! This is so much different than just bashin' in the part!

Side note, if you ownload some setup sheets from the xray site it appears that the setup sheets there do point to the top of the shock.

Side side note, being that I just purchased this car I hope they don't change too much in the next release!

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Your shock angle will change forward bite of the car, so not only are you trying to get it level with the lower arm when you change your wheelbase setting but you can also use it to fine tune for a little bite. The easiest way to think about what that adjustment does, is to think about what it does when you adjust shock angle on the shock tower, up or down, now turn that adjustment 90* and you're now adjusting the forward/back of the shock. The only thing to take note of is don't go past 3mm of shim adjustment as after that it really doesn't do anything, and in the lower arm it begins to flex on hard down travel.

The other nice thing about doing the shock spacing is it frees the shock a little to allow it to rock on the tower. If you secure your upper shock mount directly to the tower and try to wiggle the shock it will probably be little to no movement, but with a spacer you have some.

Don't be afraid to ask questions on here, there are lots of guys with great ideas and suggestions to help you out.

ByteStream

iTrader: (2)

JW explains it well. If your just starting with this car then IMO, I would not worry about this adjustment all that much. I use a 1mm shim just to make the shock a little more 'free', stick with what the basic setup sheet says, then when you have some spare time, try it for yourself and see if you can feel the difference. Compared to all the adjustments on the car, this one is the one I hardly ever touch.

I would expect a new chassis and topdeck, allowing a 90 degree servo postion, 'maybe' a gear diff in the kit cause it is about the same price as a ball diff. I doubt they would put the new roll center clamps in the new kit because they make a ton of money selling those seperately (figure a new kit is $500, the clamps are $100 - that is like 20% of the kit cost if bought seperately, I doubt they would give that up). I am crossing my fingers, but it won't happen - a new shock design that is just a little nicer to build.

RC295

Want to buy new lipo battery but didnt know which one to buy. afraid it didnt fit in or to heavy for touring. which one is better for touring??

INTELLECT Lipo Battery Pack 60c 7.4v 6200mah Hardcase
Pack Dimension (LxWxH) : 137.5 x 46.9 x 25.1mm
Weight : Approx 315g

OR

INTELLECT Lipo Battery Pack 60c 7.4v 5800mah Hardcase
Pack Dimension (LxWxH) : 137.3 x 46.3 x 23.5mm
Weight : Approx 288g



Which one?? to get more capacity or to get lighter/lower height??

Skiddins

Get the one that's 23mm tall, it will easily clear the top deck and allow the chassis to flex. The difference in capacity will not make any difference at all.

Skiddins

Meradin

iTrader: (19)

Agreed there. I use a cheap Gens Ace battery ($33) from hobby partz. It is a 5000mAh 40C battery and I rarely put more than 700mah in after the race. The extra capacity wont help too much and the weight savings could be a huge advantage.

kinga

iTrader: (15)

The two IP batteries, 5800 and 6200 60c batts are the two I use. I inherited a couple of 6200s with my new car, I wouldnt buy them over the 5800 for stock racing, I notice no difference. They wil both clear the top deck without worry. I cant get the top deck to flex enough to hit the battery.
Dont know about 700mah per race, I use at least 1500-2000 per race though
I do notice the difference between my old 50c pack and the new 60c packs, but there is no difference at all between the 5800 and 6200 packs in performance.

Nilks

700mah?
I put in over 3500mah after a 7min modified heat, and easily over 2000mah in after a 5min superstock heat (17.5T boosted).