CraigM

iTrader: (34)

4200 is not enough for mod on anything but a tiny track

Skiddins

Standard T3'11 Kit
Low profile servo
Black Diamond ESC (certainly not the smallest)
Spektrum Micro Receiver
Thunder Power Lipo's (around 300-305g)

With this lot and a standard body mine weighs 1360g

I don't use motor fans etc as they are a waste of time during a race.

Skiddins

RobS

It should be fairly easy to make the 1380 weight. I also run the standard T3'11 kit with a KO 2413 servo, micro Spektrum RX, Tekin RS, Epic D3 with a Speedmind 4 fin heat sink and an Orion 6500 LiPo. I still had to add 28 grams to make 1380 minimum.

HarryLeach

Same here, I'm running an RC4 PT, Full size JR servo, Tekin RS, Spektrum micro DSM2 Rx [mainly due to lack of real estate], D3 motor, and a 2s1p 5000mah battery.

It balances out great, all of my weight is directly under the front belt, had to add 49g to hit 1382 with a regular weight body.

It's really not difficult at all to get down to minimum weight, without going crazy on light weight electronics.

Tire/insert choice has the single biggest difference in weight on my car. I've been playing around with the lightest weight inserts I can find to reduce rotating/unsprung mass in favor of sprung mass.

MattFromSooke

T3'11 Kit
KO 2.4
MRT iPt
KO Low-pro servo
ORCA Vitra TC spec
LRP X12
ORCA 6000Mah 60c
Proline LW MazdaSpeed6
and im at 1385 (perfect balance with no added weight)

RSCosworth

I don't use a fan either. What i have done is, instead of turning the servo round 90degrees i've moved it forwards 5mm by using the extra hole motor side of the servo and drilling another hole bumper side of the servo. i can now fit my reciever on the chassis.

yokemad

Dual Servo Saver
Do you think Its a good upgrade over single and what are the advantages you felt on Track?
Cheers

M-Technic

iTrader: (15)

How so? I use 5600mAh packs but when I run mod on a huge nitro track I only use 1,200-1,800 mAh. On a medium size, more technical track I use 1,100-1,500 mAh.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Of course turn selection, driving style, car setup and grip level are all factors in battery usage. For a true mod motor 4200 is not enough runtime. I typically use between 2K to 3k mah running a TP 4.0 geared between 9.0 and 8.3.

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

Steering is more linear, more natural steering and car seems to track in a straight line easier and it doesn't lose the setting as much as a single bell crank system.

yokemad

Thanx Fred ...
I think I should try the new steering Ive checked few setups and noticed that on many of them steering not connected to the top deck that's why I'm thinking about to keep my t3 top deck or should I buy t3 2011 top deck? Also want to mount servo like trf way...
Cheers

Fred Hubbard

iTrader: (6)

You're welcome mate, you will be pleasantly surprised at how much easier the car steers and thus easier to drive.

Nilks

I run mod on a medium-sized open track, with a boosted 4.5T, and I use more than 3300mah on a 7min run.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Yikes 7 mins! We were using over 4000mah in 5 mins at our state titles last month, most were running 4t with a bit of boost, the track had a 50m straight

hanulec

iTrader: (28)

Side Piece Racing Nikita Outdrives are starting to get some adoption in under 1 month of availability. At the 2011 ROAR Paved On-Road Nats there were a bunch of XRays from the 17.5T blinky TC (Steve Sohl) to 13.5T & Modified TC (Randy Bernard) successfully running these new outdrives. I haven't heard of a single broken blade yet...

I just got a picture from Haywood of them installed into his car: