mwoods

Think it will be better to kit out drives then

Skiddins where did u get ur upper clamps from if u can still
Buy them ?

Chubba

Hi there looking for a new servo for my T3 any suggestions and what are u guys using? If savox which is the best one?

Thanks

shrek54

Take a look at the Hitec HS-7775MG, used a lot in the UK

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Please Pm me if anyone knows who has a kit in stock! Most places are out! Thanks

Dane

iTrader: (26)

Another shock building question...

I followed the instructions below to build aluminum shocks. One thing I noticed is that after bleeding the shocks, the cap closes to a certain point but once the shock shaft is fully extended, the cap can screw on significantly. Once it's tightened, the shock does not move properly which is obviously undesirable.

Has anyone else found this to happen? Are you leaving it tightened to the initial cinch down (after bleeding while keeping the shock fully compressed) or am I doing something wrong in the building process?

TRESFR

iTrader: (3)

I need room for electronics and was wondering if anyone knows if the KO 2413 Low Profile Servo uses the front mounting holes. I don't want to cut the ear off and do not have room with my futaba servo because it uses the rear hole. If not what servo uses the front holes in the 2011 chassis

King of B Main

iTrader: (40)

Mark, I use the 2413 ko servo and I had to cut right side ear off.....

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Just cut the ear off, replacement cases are dirty cheap.

I actually cut both ears off mine and shoe goo'd it on, this lets you move it further forward and liberate some more room

eded1

Why you dont use the delrin outdrives from Litemodz?

Skiddins

They came from Hong Kong, but I believe they've stopped making them, so the new Xray items are the only ones available.

Have you read the Litemodz thread!
The company are unreliable, have crap quality control and seem to have trouble sending out any parts.

I also had problems when they were TiR.
Their driveshafts were great, when they weren't falling apart.

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Couple of questions

Why are many people running the Tamiya shocks over the Xray shocks?

I will be running non boosted 17.5 on carpet and I am looking for a starting set-up for running the correct weights of lube in the gear diffs?

Thanks

Korey Harbke

iTrader: (13)

Not sure. The plastic shocks work perfectly fine. They are a little more tricky to build, but when done correctly they aren't bad at all. I'm currently running the Xray aluminum shocks mainly because the threads on the body don't get all screwed up from dirt.

I would start with a spool up front and use either 1-2K diff oil in the rear diff. 1K will make the car rotate harder off power, while 2K will make the car feel smoother and more stable.

-Korey

haywood

iTrader: (49)

Thanks

alecladanga

iTrader: (5)

One of the reasons as well is that it is easier to get the equal rebound to all 4 shocks with the tamiya. Plus of course, it is sturdier than the plastic shocks and one complete set of 4 tamiya shocks is cheaper than buying 2 pairs of the xray alu versions.

I bought the tamiya black shocks since i always get my plastic ones broken because of my driving and when i decided to hop up the suspension, i chose for the cheaper alternative.

the tamiya shocks work great with the xray springs i must say and no regrets here.

+1 on the 2k oil for the geardiff, it's a good starting point and it runs smooth and has more push compared to the ball diff.

smitty2802

iTrader: (47)

I'm using a ko propo rsx servo and didn't have to cut any of my ears off... what are your electronics???

-DC-