Qatmix

I use the square 416 bumper guard on my car (tight indoor carpet track). Its pretty good at stopping and breakages at the front end.

The ta05 plastic hubs are ok if you are running 13.5t or below you just wont get the speed necessary to incur flex. I have used both and not noticed any difference in lap times.

TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Absolutely! at least I know there flexing ... whereas with the alloy, I have had it before where it's been bloody difficult to see any bend until stripping them off the car.
At least with a plastic, if it's broke, you know about it

Having said that, never tried the Parma T2 bumper solution, although the carbon c-hubs are a lot more beefy than they used to be as well, so probably the bumper would be fine.

Anyway, on another point, I've finally got round to updating the 417 things to know list on my massively neglected site... I promise I'm going to try and keep it a bit more updated, I've got plenty of setups I need to put up there as well! If anyone's got any other tips, feel free to add them in!

Regards
Ed

Jack2

iTrader: (1)

earlier in this thread i posted up my findings running EVO hub carriers, which are made from a less fragile plastic, but much beefier in design so they dont flex.

i had to remove .7mm of material at the top under side and run the king pin/spacer different to factory to correct roll centre.

the EVO hubs are like 3 bux and are very durable. i modded 3 pairs but have yet to go thru the first pair. I also ran them with modded 416 knuckles, i had to dremel them out to accept the 417 clip pin cvd's. ended up with a cheap as chips setup that doesnt flex and carry on and its tuff.

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

417 w/gear diffs back in stock!

stitchy

iTrader: (13)

417 gear diff pulley cases and outdrives too....

TheZoof

Thank you for posting this however it seems the setup doesn't include all the information? Shocks and such aren't filled out?

transplantlife

iTrader: (47)

+1

Toon

The linked pdf does seem strange, you have to click on some areas to dislpay the hidden text. I would instead go to http://www.teamtrf.com/index.php/set...gory/34-trf417 and select the 5th one down 'TRF417_JGroskamp Snowbirds'.

Qatmix

Hi all

When servicing my car I noticed the end of the pulley plate (blue disc) had become detached from the pulley and was just wobbling around on the layshaft.

When I built the car I did shim it differently to the instructions(the pulleys rubbed on the top deck if I did that) anyone else had this problem? Or not shimmed the pulleys like the instructions.

Cheers

kedal

Hi just had the same "problem" on last saturday. I built the car like the instruction said.

I just rebuilt the blue pulley for now, I see if it's enough during the next sunday as I have a race.

Qatmix

thanks for that, hopefully our fixes will work

I reheated the disc over a stove and then fitted it back on the pulley so it contracted against the pulley.

Its wierd as the rest of the car looks almost new including the drive shaft protectors as we are running 13.5 blinky at our club now.

the greek

please can someone tell me if the first generation 417(ball diff gen) uses 46 or 44mm driveshafts? i started building a second gen 417 and it has 44mm driveshafts. i thought that gen 1 has 46mm.

Toon

The '1st release' 417 comes with 44mm shafts front & rear.

If using the front spool, 46mm steel shafts are a recommended upgrade, but I found that 46mm shafts are bit tight when using a gear diff (front or rear), so use 44mm.

eComet

iTrader: (69)

TRF417 uses all 44mm driveshafts. Only the older TRF416 uses 46mm driveshafts.

FunkyDunky

+1

I always use 46mm on the front with a spool, much more reliable