Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Not my make of car, but we use a similar system, something that will also help the bind issue, is to put a small dab of the tamiya silver grease on the ball, so it doesn't bind in the cup of the brace, the lube will let it float a little better and center itself to the angle of the toe setting so it should free up the arms a little bit.

redbones

the grease does help. But aren't you supposed to ream the arms out so it pivots freely there instead of the sus ball?

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

A reduction in shim thickness should be used to float the pin.The greased ball is to help in the final assembly as the steel ball can seize in the aluminum mount and if off slightly can put slightly more pressure on the arms shims and then the arms won't drop correctly. The free movement of the arms should be checked on final assembly without anything else mounted to them, they should free drop, the slightest bind can make the car act erratic, its very important, and thats for any car out there.

kentech

iTrader: (6)

This is totally wrong.
The TRF is designed so that the arm do not move around the pin, but the pin is solid in the arm and the only pivot points are the pin inside the suspension balls. This gives much less friction (especially under load) and more precision compared to if the whole arm pivoted around the pin, like on some other cars. This is one important feature which stands out on the leading TC's (same system used by Yokomo and HB for example).

Steffanchr

To remove arm binding replace a 0.5 shim with 0.3 from the 3mm shim set. Then it will have a little play.

This method is comparable to jilles's build method, of replacing a 1mm shim with a 0.75mm (the one from the c hub).

Do not ream the arms like kentech states, that is totally wrong and gives too much play (sideways).

BR, Steffan

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I stand corrected. Edited mis-information.

artwork

iTrader: (88)

It takes some time to get the arms to rotate freely and also takes some patience. Jilles method is really good and works very well, but a little trial and error goes a long way. I constantly have to readjust the blocks to ensure that they are not bound up, but also to ensure there is not too much play. On the Tamiya...you never reem the arms out like Kentech posted.

Everything on the car should rotate or move freely and if it is not the car will be inconsistent. when I am unsure if I have a problem I take everything off the chassis and start my build over. This ensures that everything is straight and moving freely.

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

Thanks for all the advice guys, I seem to have figured it out, some tuning tweaking and jilles on YouTube helped a lot. These separate blocks need more fine tuning than the one piece that's defnately something I've found.

First race outing in ten years coming up on Sunday. Things have changed since my P2K powered TC3 and when 2800mah nimhs were massive!

I'm only 26, making myself sound old.

Thanks again gents

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

I have my 417x on order, and am excited to get back onto the tarmac... but, I am a little worried about parts. I thought I would have no problems, but I think being new to the brand is confusing me a bit... I was planning on doing all my parts shopping at speedtechrc, but a) 75% of their parts are out of stock for this car, of parts that show up under a search are actually for a different car (example, TB03 arms show up for the 417).

Could you guys point me towards the following? Im looking for spare:

front/rear suspension arms
c-hub carriers
steering blocks
rear hubs
spur gears

thanks for the info guys!

-Cpt.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

Build items
Tamiya TRF417x (TAM42205)
Tamiya Aluminum Horn (TAM54121)
Tamiya Air Duct (TAM3454480)
Tamiya Double Cardan Joint Shaft Kit (TAM32216)
Tamiya TA05 V2 Separate Suspension Mount 1A/1XA (TAM54172)
Tamiya TA05 V2 Separate Suspension Mount 1C/1XC (TAM54174)
Parma/PSE T2 Ultimate bumper

Spares/tuning items
Tamiya 5x9 Ball Hex Connector (TAM9804381)
Tamiya 4.5x4.7 Flanged Tube (TAM9804396)
Tamiya 4.5x3.5 Flanged Tube (TAM9804382)
Tamiya 3x0.7mm spacer (TAM9805645)
Tamiya TRF416 Derlin Direct Cup (TAM9804388)
Tamiya TRF416 Front Uprights (TAM51332)
Tamiya TRF416 Rear Uprights (TAM51333)
Tamiya TRF416 Front C-Hubs (TAM54031)
Tamiya Short Reversible Suspension Arm X2 (TAM53928)
Tamiya 46mm Titanium Coated Suspension Shaft (TAM53851)
Tamiya 416TB03 Alum Suspension Mount 1E (TAM54073)
Tamiya TRF Damper Large Diameter Retainer (TAM42192)
HPI Option Springs (Blue) X2 (HP6542)
HPI Option Springs (Silver) X2 (HP6543)

This spares/tuning list is a good starting point. Depending on your driving style, class, and track you may need additional spares/tuning items. If you don't go with the DCJs you'll want to pickup the 46mm steel shafts for the front.

John.C

iTrader: (37)

I'm currently using this spur gear.


I have these on order.


A third option from SpeedtechRC.

Cpt.America

iTrader: (52)

Thanks for the fantastic reply... much appreciated!!

tr1kstanc3

iTrader: (18)

Depending on the track you race at I would also look at the softer plastic C-hubs as they have more give to them.

TAM51293 Tamiya TA05-IFS F Parts (Hub Carrier, 4 degrees)

OI82lose

iTrader: (2)

I use green slime from Team Associated to seal my shocks and gear diffs.
Is this the same product as "Slime" which is green and sold to repair tires and tubes?
Any information would be great.

Thanks

silverhkswrx

iTrader: (10)

No. The one for tired solidifies.