turd ferguson

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys. Just to let everyone know. Tamiya is releasing a new chassis and upperdeck for the TRF417x. They are meant for high bite. The part #s will be loaded to the TamiyaUSA site in a few weeks with parts scheduled to arrive in July. Here is the info I recieved:

Items:
42232 RC TRF417X Lower Deck 2.5mm Thick
42233 RC TRF417X Upper Deck 2.5mm Thick

Happy Racing

A_Smith

Is there a 48 dp spur that will fit directly onto 417 without having to cut the 2 lugs off.

Thanks Andrew

Qatmix

Cool, The car is too flexible for high bite (especially the X, thats why at our club we still buy the 417 as its stiffer.

I'm tempted to get the Exotech hard chassis, but I might get the tamiya one now.

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

The serpent S411 one's fit.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Panaracer too

maxepower

iTrader: (1)

You can easily drill through the delrin spurs . Use a body reemer to make a mark on center using the pully itself then drill away. If the hole is oversized a little it doesn't matter you still have two holes that center the spur. That's all you need! Easy! The only issue is some spur gears are thicker than the Tamiya ones and fitting the spacer can be a problem. But, that can be fixed also!

Just my 2$

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

I've seen some people complaining about various issues with the gear diff II unit... i.e. the gear diff shims failing. However, I haven't been able to track down exactly what issues racers are experiencing. What exactly are the issues and are there any solutions? I just bought a gear diff II unit and would like to avoid any issues if possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers.

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

Use search, it has been covered at length

A_Smith

Thanks alot.

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

The kit diff shims external diameter are too narrow and in my experience eventually cone in towards the cavity of the o-ring in the diff housing. This causes the diff to become notchy and tight.
You need to find shims with the same internal diameter, but a larger external diameter, as this will allow the shim to be more supported against the housing and not cone into the o-ring space.
Then it's just a matter is sanding the gears and/or shiming to get the smoothest feeling diff. Too tight or loose its notchy...

Hope this helps...

Obsidian

iTrader: (10)

Thanks everyone for the info on the gear diff.

Q...where can I purchase the Roche steel outdrives for the gear diff II unit?

Thanx

svndayNZ

iTrader: (20)

I read Wilcks blog where he said he uses 3x shims on the long and 2x shims on the short. I just built my diff last night using this method. Though i hear its commom but does this issue still occur using this setup?

2-Bad

iTrader: (24)

IMO, it really doesn't matter how many shims you use as long as you get the diff feeling smooth (trial and error). Regarding the shim, I think from memory the standard shims are around 8mm externally. I would suggest getting some shims that are over 10mm external diameter (11mm, 12mm, 13mm better), as this allows the shim to be better supported agains the diff housing and not against the o-ring (like the standard ones do).

CraigM

iTrader: (34)

It depends how much power you put through it. Wilck's method is the same as what Kiyo told me at TITC, and in mod I still had coning after only a couple runs. My friend though runs 17.5 boost and so far his diff is fine.

On the O-ring front check out kyosho part # ORG05. They fit straight in and come in a pack of 10 and will stop the leaks.

I still find it a bit hard to believe that the team put up with a diff this shoddy. They only need to change the orings and the length of the pin to have the best diff on the market

bjspinner

iTrader: (22)

Try these
http://http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1576_699/products_id/188800/n/ProTek-R-C-5x115x02mm-Differential-Gear-Washer-10