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Old 04-06-2011, 03:10 PM   #1186
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Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
i used the CRC 10mm spacers
Cheers for the info.
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Old 04-07-2011, 02:33 AM   #1187
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Old 04-07-2011, 04:16 PM   #1188
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Default Snowbird Setup

Has anyone tried Jilles Snowbirds setup?? Any thoughts on the longer camber links used in his setup?

Cheers.

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Old 04-08-2011, 01:13 AM   #1189
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Default Finally.....

After Pre-ording my 417 and recieving in late Dec '10 I have been enduring the wait till now while my 417 sat on the shelf at home while I worked overseas. After a long 3 months I have now built it and will be racing it this weekend (please don't rain, sob sob)....

Here are some pic's before I drive it in anger, hahaha



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Old 04-08-2011, 01:52 AM   #1190
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^^^ are you gonna put the split mounts in the back? I didnt like how car felt with only front split suspension mounts.jmo
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:40 AM   #1191
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Default 48 pitch

If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
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Old 04-08-2011, 04:52 AM   #1192
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If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
I'm running the older stly Xenon spur gears. They have the correct holes and spacing to fit the pulleys/spur holder. I just drilled a 6 or 6.5mm hole in the outer edge to allow for motor screw adjustment.
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Old 04-08-2011, 05:27 AM   #1193
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Default Inner Camber Link Height

HI All

Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;

1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal

I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)


Thanks

Mark
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:02 AM   #1194
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The Tamiya 64 pitch spurs are killa, we have been running nearly every weeekend on asphalt and have not gone through one yet.

Rhys


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Originally Posted by 67fastbk View Post
If anyone is looking to run a 48 pitch spur I have used an Xray spur and drilled two extra holes to fit the Tamyia spur holder and it fits like a charm. A must for racers racing on asphalt outdoors. If anybody has a 48pitch which fits without modification please let me know.
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:23 AM   #1195
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The Tamiya 64 pitch spurs are killa, we have been running nearly every weeekend on asphalt and have not gone through one yet.

Rhys
If you dont run a chassis protector, use a lil foil tape to cover the spur and pinion holes on bottom of chassis. This will also help keep gears from getting destroyed.

I agree Tamiya gears are very good!
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Old 04-08-2011, 08:28 AM   #1196
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Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
^^^ are you gonna put the split mounts in the back? I didnt like how car felt with only front split suspension mounts.jmo
On the 416 I never noticed any difference... but I have them if I need them.
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Old 04-08-2011, 01:12 PM   #1197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bony85 View Post
HI All

Just interested in understanding what changing the inner camber link height does, at that end of the car;

1. raising/lowering the front inner camber link - keeping all other bits equal
2. raising/lowering the rear camber link - keeping all other bits equal

I plan to fiddle with these settings next time I get a test day, ie change the front from 4-6mm over a couple of runs, and the rear from 3-5mm over a couple of runs and see if i can tie my findings back to what you think they should be (note i realise these changes are extreme, but i'm not good enough to feel the difference of a 0.5mm change but plan to at least have the learning there so i can make a minor change if needed at a big meeting)


Thanks

Mark
Raising or lowering the links will do two things;
1) change the amount camber change
2) change the roll centre

With the first, a more shims will make for a flatter link, which in turn will reduce the amount of camber change as the car rolls. Now, as your probably aware, it's a bit of a balancing act. You want camber change to maintain good amount of grip (i.e. keep the most amount of tyre in contact with the road as possible) as the car rolls, but too much, and the car will become snappy. This is because if the camber becomes too much, the tyre's will rapidly loose grip.
In effect, more camber change (less shims) should give you more grip, but a snappier car to drive, whilst less camber change (more shims) will give less overall grip, but a more progressive and consistent car.

However... this is balanced against lowering the rollcentre (more shims), which will naturally make that end of the car want to roll less, so less grip. Interestingly though, out of the three main alterations that affect the roll centre (inner lower pivot, outer upper pivot, and inner upper pivot), the inner camber link as the least effect on the roll centre placement.
As such, I tend to use the inner shims (and link placement) more as an alteration of the camber change than roll centre. If I want to adjust the roll-centre, first will be shims under the suspension blocks, then the outer hub. Last of all would be the inner camber link.

Don't forget as well that the link position has a big effect as well, to both the Roll centre and camber change. If you have time, it's worth trying different amount of shims along with different link positons, and see what works best for you.

Personally, I like the longest link with the kit shims. Seem to find the kit link a bit too nervous for my tastes, and more shims roll too much. But it's worth trying to see what suits you vest.

HiH
Ed
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Old 04-08-2011, 11:40 PM   #1198
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TryHard,

Have you ever tried the 417 indoors on carpet?? My q's is what C rating are you using on your batts>?
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Old 04-09-2011, 03:19 AM   #1199
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TryHard,

Have you ever tried the 417 indoors on carpet?? My q's is what C rating are you using on your batts>?
Never run the 7 on the rug, in fact haven't driven properly on carpet for over a year! To be honest, I'd just start with my outdoor setup, run a little less droop and different springs, and tune from there.
C rating on my batts, well, I use 5600mah 50C's, seem more than pokey enough!

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Old 04-09-2011, 02:40 PM   #1200
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Getting my 417 ready for next weekend new lids on the way for those that are looking for a really good painter send an email to deani111@verizon.net
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Tamiya TRF417-img_7185.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-img_7187.jpg  
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