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Old 03-24-2011, 02:15 AM   #1066
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Hey TryHard

with cutting the motor mount why is it that only cut the center out? why not cut it all the way to the edge making it clean (so it would look like the mount from the 416x).

id think by keeping the little extruded parts on the mounts, you would be actually limiting the total amount of flex that is possible. Thus you may not get a "true" representation of its handling effects.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Brad.
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:02 AM   #1067
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
Hey TryHard

with cutting the motor mount why is it that only cut the center out? why not cut it all the way to the edge making it clean (so it would look like the mount from the 416x).

id think by keeping the little extruded parts on the mounts, you would be actually limiting the total amount of flex that is possible. Thus you may not get a "true" representation of its handling effects.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Brad.
The section you cut isnt actually mounted hard against the chassis Brad. its like 1mm or so off the deck. I can see what your saying but don't think it will make a difference.

I'm running split blocks in the back of the car for the first time this w.e, dont know if it will make much of difference..
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Old 03-24-2011, 03:06 AM   #1068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
Hey TryHard

with cutting the motor mount why is it that only cut the center out? why not cut it all the way to the edge making it clean (so it would look like the mount from the 416x).

id think by keeping the little extruded parts on the mounts, you would be actually limiting the total amount of flex that is possible. Thus you may not get a "true" representation of its handling effects.

Just my thoughts on the subject.

Brad.
I cut it in a hurry... and haven't bothered to go back to it yet (my dremel is a few thousand miles away! ).

As Jack2 says, the centre part of the mount is actually raised above the chassis, so the centre parts don't touch.

HiH
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Old 03-24-2011, 08:37 AM   #1069
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my dremel is a few thousand miles away!
and dremels aren't sold in China, wahahaha (sry, my smart-ass is creeping out )
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:16 AM   #1070
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What size spur gears are people using for 17.5 boosted? and 13.5 boosted racing? Rubber tire and carpet racing. Medium to large sized tracks.

I know Tamiya sells the 111 & 113, should I be looking for different sized spurs, if so what brands are people using? (PRS, Xenon etc)

Thanks Greg G
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:38 AM   #1071
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Hey, might pickup a 417 real soon.

any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?

what upgrades should i order?

what spares should i order with the kit?

thanks!
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:56 AM   #1072
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Originally Posted by Swampracer View Post
What size spur gears are people using for 17.5 boosted? and 13.5 boosted racing? Rubber tire and carpet racing. Medium to large sized tracks.

I know Tamiya sells the 111 & 113, should I be looking for different sized spurs, if so what brands are people using? (PRS, Xenon etc)

Thanks Greg G

Xenon are the best, try to aim for spur sizes 98-105 teeth...
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:15 AM   #1073
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Hey, might pickup a 417 real soon.

any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?

what upgrades should i order?

what spares should i order with the kit?

thanks!
Hi,

I recommend using longer screws then what the manual indicates when screwing down the suspension mounts. It helps to keep them from bending when you accidently hit a barrier. Also, when assembling the front/rear axles note that there are 2 different sized shafts.

BB15 (9805776) is 2X9.8mm -> shaft that connects the wheel axle and swing shaft; also used to connect the direct cup to the spool
BC13 (50594) is 2X10mm -> shaft that sets the wheel hubs to the axle

Lastly, ensure that the proper shims are used when building the steering linkage.

I posted this a couple of pages back. The upgrade/modification items help to strength the front end and the car in general.

The usual plastic items (ie. hub carrier, front/rear uprights, direct cup, arms, etc) and spare suspension blocks are a good start for spares. Tamiya has a great article on the supsension blocks (click here).

Maybe we can convice Min to start stocking some of these parts at the store.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:18 AM   #1074
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Originally Posted by poochy View Post
Hey, might pickup a 417 real soon.

any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?

what upgrades should i order?

what spares should i order with the kit?

thanks!
any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?
- Might have to sand the arms in the rear hub area to allow for freer movement
- Make sure when the instructions call to use an 0.5 or an 0.7 shim that you are using the correct shim.
- May have to shim the spur assembly more than instructed

what upgrades should i order?
- Gear Diff
- 44mm steel bones for front
- Possibly the 1X/1XA split blocks to gain more rear traction
- Titanium turnbuckles for steering and camber
- HPI springs for asphalt racing

what spares should i order with the kit?
- A-arms front and rear
- Front C hubs
- Steering spindles/Rear hubs
- Belts
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:26 AM   #1075
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Originally Posted by Apex View Post
any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?
- Might have to sand the arms in the rear hub area to allow for freer movement
- Make sure when the instructions call to use an 0.5 or an 0.7 shim that you are using the correct shim.
- May have to shim the spur assembly more than instructed

what upgrades should i order?
- Gear Diff
- 44mm steel bones for front
- Possibly the 1X/1XA split blocks to gain more rear traction
- Titanium turnbuckles for steering and camber
- HPI springs for asphalt racing

what spares should i order with the kit?
- A-arms front and rear
- Front C hubs
- Steering spindles/Rear hubs
- Belts
Thanks Apex!!!!
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:36 AM   #1076
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If you plan to run the spool, get the 46mm steel bones for the front. Order some spare spool inserts, too.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:42 AM   #1077
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Originally Posted by poochy View Post
Thanks Apex!!!!
No problem. One more thing, when cutting\slicing tops of the ball cups for the sway bar use a fresh x-acto blade. It will leave a real clean cut.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:48 AM   #1078
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Originally Posted by poochy View Post
Hey, might pickup a 417 real soon.

any problems that i may encounter when assembling it out of the box?

what upgrades should i order?

what spares should i order with the kit?

thanks!
Problems:

- differentiating between the various size spacers/washers

Upgrades:

- I ordered the Tamiya Air Duct (Tamiya 3454480) because it provides a solid flat surface for mounting my ESC. Not a necessity, but it helps.

- I use ceramic diff balls for a smoother diff

General building tip:

- Step 4: part "K1" - I like to place a dab of liquid white out (or white paint) in the position indicator holes. Makes it much easier to tell where the pointer's located. See Below:
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Tamiya TRF417-417.jpg  
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:53 AM   #1079
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geppetto View Post
Problems:

- differentiating between the various size spacers/washers

Upgrades:

- I ordered the Tamiya Air Duct (Tamiya 3454480) because it provides a solid flat surface for mounting my ESC. Not a necessity, but it helps.

- I use ceramic diff balls for a smoother diff
And it's BLUE so can't go wrong there. Are you also using ceramic balls for the thrust bearing?
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:59 AM   #1080
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Originally Posted by double_green View Post
And it's BLUE so can't go wrong there. Are you also using ceramic balls for the thrust bearing?

I was going to, but Victor suggested that ceramic in the thrust wouldn't add much in terms of performance.
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