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Old 03-15-2011, 04:33 PM   #1006
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Originally Posted by eComet View Post
No, the bulkheads of 417 is narrower.
oh, thanks eComet
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:36 PM   #1007
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So far with the long links the car is easy to drive. I might try the short set up this weekend. When i first built the car with the short links it seemed faster on the infield.
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Old 03-15-2011, 06:05 PM   #1008
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Hi Ed,

Your still running a cut motor mount right? I've been tempted to cut mine a few times... My car seems to be very solid on carpet so I've held off. Carpet Nationals is next week and im very tempted to test it cut this weekend... Also I've been running long links with 5 and 4mm inner ball stud washers. Car seems good but I haven't tried shorter or longer with less shims... I guess if I make the front end more aggressive I might need more rear grip!

Were do you see most of the guys running there diffs? Low or high?

Thanks,
Kody
Yup, 4mmF, 3mm R, and still with the cut mount. I do also with 0.5/1 shims under the front blocks, and 1/1 under the rear, as I tend to run on a high speed track, so corner speed is king, and high rollcentre helps. Also, I'm hard on the brakes, so the anti-dive helps keep it stable.

For me, the long link/less shims combo always felt the best, and the laptimes back that up. I've tried a few times now switching between settings (Long link 5/4mm, short link 5/4mm, short link 4/3mm etc), and still keep coming back to that combo.

I found that with more shims under the link, the car rolls a bit too much for my liking, and is generally less-responsive. The shorter link makes the car too peaky for me, so the longer link helps keep it stable, and with less shims, seem to get a good comprimise between camber change and roll centre to get the reactiveness back. (remembering that the bulkheads on the 7 are 0.5mm higher than the 6 as well).

Theres one corner on our track, thats a continually tightening right-hander, and the car is always highloaded, and there's also quick switch back section that I really struggled with before. With the short rear link, I'd have to be really gentle on how I got it through that big turn, and then so gentle in the switch back to make sure the rear didn't step out. With the longer link/less shims, just feels like I can lean harder and longer on the rear tyres without them stepping out, meaning I can get on the gas harder, and generally be a bit more aggressive. It was a very noticeable change which I was quite suprised at really. Means I'm now more consistent, and lapping only a couple of tenths off the fastest guys round there (although it is more fun overtaking 1/8th gas cars on the in-field, and then creeping away on the straights )

My guess is that there just wasn't enough camber change in the suspension before (either with short link or more shims), so when loaded up the car would snap loose as the tyres suddenly reached their limits.
(if it helps, tyres are Sorex's, 28's or 32's)

Or to put it in a short manner, Long link+4mmF+3mmR = My base setting

I'm still running the cut mount too. Car has been a lot better for me since doing that. Haven't put it on the rug though, so it's possible that the stiffer rear might help there (see Jilles' result at the 'Birds after all!)

HiH
Ed
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Old 03-16-2011, 12:11 AM   #1009
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hey guys ive got a stupid question,

with the suspension mount spacers. ive seen setups that have these on it.

Front
F 0mm R 0.5mm
Rear
F 0.5mm R 0.5mm

does this mean you add those shims to the standard kit settings??

giving you a total shim, making it

Front
F 0mm R 4mm
Rear
F 1mm R 1mm

or have i got it all wrong, if someone could explain this please..
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:11 AM   #1010
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Originally Posted by TryHard View Post
Yup, 4mmF, 3mm R, and still with the cut mount. I do also with 0.5/1 shims under the front blocks, and 1/1 under the rear, as I tend to run on a high speed track, so corner speed is king, and high rollcentre helps. Also, I'm hard on the brakes, so the anti-dive helps keep it stable.

For me, the long link/less shims combo always felt the best, and the laptimes back that up. I've tried a few times now switching between settings (Long link 5/4mm, short link 5/4mm, short link 4/3mm etc), and still keep coming back to that combo.

I found that with more shims under the link, the car rolls a bit too much for my liking, and is generally less-responsive. The shorter link makes the car too peaky for me, so the longer link helps keep it stable, and with less shims, seem to get a good comprimise between camber change and roll centre to get the reactiveness back. (remembering that the bulkheads on the 7 are 0.5mm higher than the 6 as well).

Theres one corner on our track, thats a continually tightening right-hander, and the car is always highloaded, and there's also quick switch back section that I really struggled with before. With the short rear link, I'd have to be really gentle on how I got it through that big turn, and then so gentle in the switch back to make sure the rear didn't step out. With the longer link/less shims, just feels like I can lean harder and longer on the rear tyres without them stepping out, meaning I can get on the gas harder, and generally be a bit more aggressive. It was a very noticeable change which I was quite suprised at really. Means I'm now more consistent, and lapping only a couple of tenths off the fastest guys round there (although it is more fun overtaking 1/8th gas cars on the in-field, and then creeping away on the straights )

My guess is that there just wasn't enough camber change in the suspension before (either with short link or more shims), so when loaded up the car would snap loose as the tyres suddenly reached their limits.
(if it helps, tyres are Sorex's, 28's or 32's)

Or to put it in a short manner, Long link+4mmF+3mmR = My base setting

I'm still running the cut mount too. Car has been a lot better for me since doing that. Haven't put it on the rug though, so it's possible that the stiffer rear might help there (see Jilles' result at the 'Birds after all!)

HiH
Ed
Ed,

Is the track wide and with fast sweepers of opposite? I haven't cut the motor mount yet. Maybe will give it a try this weekend since I got a spare mount.

Thanks
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Old 03-16-2011, 01:25 AM   #1011
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Originally Posted by jonest View Post
Ed,

Is the track wide and with fast sweepers of opposite? I haven't cut the motor mount yet. Maybe will give it a try this weekend since I got a spare mount.

Thanks
If you mean the opposite of RC city, then yes It's pretty low traction too.
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Old 03-16-2011, 02:33 AM   #1012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
hey guys ive got a stupid question,

with the suspension mount spacers. ive seen setups that have these on it.

Front
F 0mm R 0.5mm
Rear
F 0.5mm R 0.5mm

does this mean you add those shims to the standard kit settings??

giving you a total shim, making it

Front
F 0mm R 4mm
Rear
F 1mm R 1mm

or have i got it all wrong, if someone could explain this please..
Hi brad, how are you dude

As far as I'm aware, its always total, never 'plus kit'

except, when you flip the front "rear" block, you must add 3mm to get it back to "zero" so sometimes on setup sheets that isnt counted, hence 0.5 & 0.5 etc when really its 0.5 & 3.5, kit spec example. so when you say 0 front 0.5 rear I would read that as 0 front 3.5mm rear.

hope that jiberish makes sense
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Old 03-16-2011, 04:20 AM   #1013
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ok, thanks jack.

i had gotten pretty confused there, they should make a better note of that on setup sheets, i know when i do setups for m-chassis i try to include extra memo's of things that don't make sense.

cheers
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:16 AM   #1014
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Hi.

Regarding links - shims/spacers on the bulkhead - no rear grip.

On low grip carpet I've used this:

Still long links. Go up to 4 or even 4,5 mm spacer outside on the rear uprights instead of 3 mm. Use only 3 mm spacer on the bulkhead mount. The link is then more angled than kit set up. Camber about 1,0 to 1,5 degr. The car will now produce more camber in turn ins.

Use also the inner holes on the suspension arms to mount the damper. I then use HPI silver instead of Tamiya blue springs, because the HPI springs are a tick lower.

It helps a lot.

Last edited by BCDK; 03-16-2011 at 08:51 AM.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:14 PM   #1015
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anyone running mod parking lot? If so, what set ups seem to work best?
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:39 PM   #1016
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hi everybody, i'm from france, i try to find a good setup to my 417 because in france there a not many !
i drive on asphalt with low grip and fast speed.
someone has cut motor mount and try on asphalt ? ?
thank you for your help...
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:09 PM   #1017
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Can anyone confirm that 417 carbon steering brace fits the 416? As in the steering width hasn't changed?

Simply just asking, to know if it will fit my tcx

Ta in advance
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Old 03-17-2011, 05:56 PM   #1018
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Can anyone confirm that 417 carbon steering brace fits the 416? As in the steering width hasn't changed?

Simply just asking, to know if it will fit my tcx

Ta in advance
No. It doesn't fit.
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Old 03-17-2011, 11:37 PM   #1019
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I'm getting back into the hobby and I was wondering is there a big difference with the 416 to the 417 or should I stick with the 416WE

thanks David
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Old 03-18-2011, 05:12 AM   #1020
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For those of you who shop online, where do you buy your parts?
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