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Old 03-14-2011, 12:31 PM   #991
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003 View Post
I'm having a heck of a time replacing the front spool drive cups, any special techniques used to 'pinch' the out-drives in order to slide the blue aluminum sleeve off?

Cheers

Edward
Easiest way if you are trying to save the outdrive is take a big flathead and push the whole bearing/cam assembly. If you dont care about the outdrive, cut off the flange as ed says.
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Old 03-14-2011, 02:43 PM   #992
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Does anyone know the maximum size 48dp spur gear that will fit the 417??


Thanks

Mark
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Old 03-14-2011, 06:33 PM   #993
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Originally Posted by FERNANDO.G View Post
EDWARD2003....I use the cap from my exacto knife and squeesze it over the front causing it to close and it will slide out.

Try find something round and a bit smaller and press it over.

Recently I posted some pics on the www.Tamiyausa.com

about the plastic outdrive cups. I dremmeled the slots so 3mm plastic blades would slide and now I have the blades against the outdrive instead of the pin eating the plastic away.I ran all day Sunday testing with 4.5 and all looks good however the Tamiya blades are fragile due to the plastic and cracked. I then switched to XRAY ones which needed a bit of trimming but held up all day no problem. I will be updating the pics tonight on TamiyaUSA..

I use a similar technique, only I use a spare 15x10 bearing. Works like a charm!!!
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Old 03-14-2011, 08:15 PM   #994
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Does the 417 work better with shorter upper camber links? The kit set up has the short links. I'm aware of the effects of both long and short. I just was curious if the car design works better with short links. I'm running mod on med to low traction asphalt.
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:59 AM   #995
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Hey,

could anyone tell me what the Rebound Stroke in the setting sheet means? My friends and I have been arguing on this. And I think Rebound Stroke = Droop.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:14 AM   #996
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Hey,

could anyone tell me what the Rebound Stroke in the setting sheet means? My friends and I have been arguing on this. And I think Rebound Stroke = Droop.

Thanks in advance.
Shock bound means compression while rebound means extension. So reboud stroke means how much length in mm the shock shaft extends when fully compressed.

Assemble the shock to 61.5mm full length measuring from top of the shock ball end to the bottom end of the 5mm ball end connector. You can then measure rebound stroke by fully compress the shaft (stops by the lower ball end connector) and quickly release it. If the lower ball end connector stays fully compressed, you have 0 rebound. If it extends, the distance between the shock body and the lower ball end connector is the rebound stroke.

Most of the TRF guys runs little to no rebound. With the sponge piece in the shock cap, there will be some rebound. So to achieve little to no rebound, use no sponge and drill a small vent hole on the top ball end connector to relief air in the shock cap.

Droop is not rebound stroke. It is how much length you lift the end of the car before the tires of that end start to lift off the ground. This is affected by the downtravel of the suspension arms by adjusting the droop screws in the arms. To measure downtravel, you need a droop/downtravel gauge and measure from the bottom of the chassis to the lower end of the arms. A higher number means less droop as the arms will not lower more droop.

Check: http://www.competitionx.com/rc-tunin...-tuning-droop/
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:26 AM   #997
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Originally Posted by eComet View Post
Shock bound means compression while rebound means extension. So reboud stroke means how much length in mm the shock shaft extends when fully compressed.

Assemble the shock to 61.5mm full length measuring from top of the shock ball end to the bottom end of the 5mm ball end connector. You can then measure rebound stroke by fully compress the shaft (stops by the lower ball end connector) and quickly release it. If the lower ball end connector stays fully compressed, you have 0 rebound. If it extends, the distance between the shock body and the lower ball end connector is the rebound stroke.

Most of the TRF guys runs little to no rebound. With the sponge piece in the shock cap, there will be some rebound. So to achieve little to no rebound, use no sponge and drill a small vent hole on the top ball end connector to relief air in the shock cap.

Droop is not rebound stroke. It is how much length you lift the end of the car before the tires of that end start to lift off the ground. This is affected by the downtravel of the suspension arms by adjusting the droop screws in the arms. To measure downtravel, you need a droop/downtravel gauge and measure from the bottom of the chassis to the lower end of the arms. A higher number means less droop as the arms will not lower more droop.
Great appreciation ecomet! And could you explain how the rebound stroke affects the controlling?

Thanks.
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Old 03-15-2011, 02:47 AM   #998
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Great appreciation ecomet! And could you explain how the rebound stroke affects the controlling?

Thanks.
If you read through this thread, you'll find some information regarding rebound stroke.

Most people run little to zero because it's more consistent. On high traction surface like carpet, some run with rebound stroke by adding the sponge in the shock cap. Incidentally, rebound will add some stiffness to the spring.

Still, 80% runs without rebound because it is more consistent, that makes shock do only what it should be doing, to damp the movement.
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:24 AM   #999
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Originally Posted by eComet View Post
If you read through this thread, you'll find some information regarding rebound stroke.

Most people run little to zero because it's more consistent. On high traction surface like carpet, some run with rebound stroke by adding the sponge in the shock cap. Incidentally, rebound will add some stiffness to the spring.

Still, 80% runs without rebound because it is more consistent, that makes shock do only what it should be doing, to damp the movement.
Thank you eComet for the great help!
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Old 03-15-2011, 05:25 AM   #1000
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Originally Posted by M3dreamin2008 View Post
Does the 417 work better with shorter upper camber links? The kit set up has the short links. I'm aware of the effects of both long and short. I just was curious if the car design works better with short links. I'm running mod on med to low traction asphalt.
Actually, the kit positions on the 7 are very close to the inner most holes on the 6, because the bulkheads are closer together.
Having said that, I'm prefering the longest link now, with kit shims... seems to me that I can just lean on the car more in the corner, without the rear snapping.

HiH
Ed
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Old 03-15-2011, 09:23 AM   #1001
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Actually, the kit positions on the 7 are very close to the inner most holes on the 6, because the bulkheads are closer together.
Having said that, I'm prefering the longest link now, with kit shims... seems to me that I can just lean on the car more in the corner, without the rear snapping.

HiH
Ed
Kit shims? Meaning kit recommendation roll center shims on bulkhead and hub?
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Old 03-15-2011, 11:59 AM   #1002
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Hi Ed,

Your still running a cut motor mount right? I've been tempted to cut mine a few times... My car seems to be very solid on carpet so I've held off. Carpet Nationals is next week and im very tempted to test it cut this weekend... Also I've been running long links with 5 and 4mm inner ball stud washers. Car seems good but I haven't tried shorter or longer with less shims... I guess if I make the front end more aggressive I might need more rear grip!

Were do you see most of the guys running there diffs? Low or high?

Thanks,
Kody
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Old 03-15-2011, 01:37 PM   #1003
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Maybe experiment with taking screws out of the rear of the top deck before cutting the mount? It seemed to help with rear grip quite a bit in a challenging situation I encountered recently.

I've been neglecting my 417 to give 1/12 a try. At one point, I bumped the 417 off my table by accident and it fell into the trash can. I laughed. That was 2 weeks ago. It's still there.
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:05 PM   #1004
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does 417 upper deck compatible with 416x?
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Old 03-15-2011, 04:29 PM   #1005
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does 417 upper deck compatible with 416x?
No, the bulkheads of 417 is narrower.
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