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Old 03-11-2011, 01:09 AM   #976
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Originally Posted by Electro-MAX RC View Post
Hi, sorry if this has already been asked, but for the servo saver, are you running the link hole off center (I think the manual says 15 degrees off center).

Also if you are using the center hole where the link mounts to the bridge that connects the arms, how may spacers, if any do you use?
Hi.

I think, it's only 5 degr. off center, and yes, I do so. I use 3 mm spacer on the servo horn, and I use a 3 mm spacer on the bridge. But I don't use the center hole on the bridge. I use the right hole, where the bridge and arms are connected.
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Old 03-11-2011, 01:55 PM   #977
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Default Changing spurs!!

Hoping someone would know a lesser physical way to using Stanley knives to separate the direct shaft from the pulley holder when changing spurs? It's on pretty tight.

Also is the spacer necessary. Ive tried 3 types of gears and i cannot put the pin on the end with the spacer because the groove doesn't come up high enough with the spacer.

And to be honest even without it, it's hard to put on.

I'm sure I've followed the simple instructions of plug and click to the letter but it all seems like something doesn't feel right?
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:35 PM   #978
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Originally Posted by emerge View Post
Hoping someone would know a lesser physical way to using Stanley knives to separate the direct shaft from the pulley holder when changing spurs? It's on pretty tight.

Also is the spacer necessary. Ive tried 3 types of gears and i cannot put the pin on the end with the spacer because the groove doesn't come up high enough with the spacer.

And to be honest even without it, it's hard to put on.

I'm sure I've followed the simple instructions of plug and click to the letter but it all seems like something doesn't feel right?
Just put the assembly on the table and push down on the spur and you'll split the assembly.
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Old 03-11-2011, 03:53 PM   #979
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Default Spur gear

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Originally Posted by ittjv View Post
Just put the assembly on the table and push down on the spur and you'll split the assembly.
I'm sorry but I don't understand the "splitting" of assembly. You mean break?
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Old 03-12-2011, 10:17 PM   #980
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Default Gears

I'm sure this would have come up already by now but how do you tighten the motor using standard non tamiya spurs? Ive tried looking at the screw position to try and see if I can drill out a hole but it's right on the thread!
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:47 AM   #981
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Can I check that the trf417 diff uses 3mm balls? I assume so as the manual says so but someone on here says they dont fit.

Cheers
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:32 PM   #982
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Originally Posted by Qatmix View Post
Can I check that the trf417 diff uses 3mm balls? I assume so as the manual says so but someone on here says they dont fit.

Cheers
Yesm it's using 3mm balls but the thurst bearing is different compared to 416s.
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Old 03-13-2011, 12:56 PM   #983
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The Tamiya Gear Diff is said to be a copy/re-packaged of the Spec-R. Can anyone tell me if there are any external Tamiya labels/brand name/symbols on the Tamiya Gear Diff?

thx....
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Old 03-13-2011, 01:19 PM   #984
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Yesm it's using 3mm balls but the thurst bearing is different compared to 416s.
Cheers Bud I assumed it would be
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Old 03-13-2011, 01:45 PM   #985
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Originally Posted by 2-Bad View Post
The Tamiya Gear Diff is said to be a copy/re-packaged of the Spec-R. Can anyone tell me if there are any external Tamiya labels/brand name/symbols on the Tamiya Gear Diff?

thx....
The tamiya gear diff has spec-r molded into the plastic. The only thing that has the tamiya name is the packaging.
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Old 03-13-2011, 01:47 PM   #986
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The tamiya gear diff has spec-r molded into the plastic. The only thing that has the tamiya name is the packaging.
and the price tag
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Old 03-13-2011, 10:00 PM   #987
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Default Out-drive replacement

I'm having a heck of a time replacing the front spool drive cups, any special techniques used to 'pinch' the out-drives in order to slide the blue aluminum sleeve off?

Cheers

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Old 03-14-2011, 06:05 AM   #988
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I'm having a heck of a time replacing the front spool drive cups, any special techniques used to 'pinch' the out-drives in order to slide the blue aluminum sleeve off?

Cheers

Edward
If your replacing them, do what I do... cut the lug off! simples
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Old 03-14-2011, 10:47 AM   #989
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Who has the largest parts list for the 417 (online shop and trust worthy). So many shops only have a few items in stock, argh...
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Old 03-14-2011, 11:17 AM   #990
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EDWARD2003....I use the cap from my exacto knife and squeesze it over the front causing it to close and it will slide out.

Try find something round and a bit smaller and press it over.

Recently I posted some pics on the www.Tamiyausa.com

about the plastic outdrive cups. I dremmeled the slots so 3mm plastic blades would slide and now I have the blades against the outdrive instead of the pin eating the plastic away.I ran all day Sunday testing with 4.5 and all looks good however the Tamiya blades are fragile due to the plastic and cracked. I then switched to XRAY ones which needed a bit of trimming but held up all day no problem. I will be updating the pics tonight on TamiyaUSA..
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