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Old 03-07-2011, 02:40 PM   #931
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I am having the same issue with the Tamiya High-Torque Servo Saver. My car was running fine until I couldn't figure out why it wanted to pull one side after mildly hitting a corner (indoor carpet). I rechecked my camber, tweak and found no issue. Later I observed that my servo save has some play at the center.

I'll rebuild the servo saver and pinch the spring and see if that helps.

Thanks for the tip.
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Old 03-07-2011, 04:32 PM   #932
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Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
for the rear, most people have been using 1000wt oil.
Thanks mate - any particular brand? all I seem to be finding is HPI Baja
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Old 03-07-2011, 05:02 PM   #933
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Thanks mate - any particular brand? all I seem to be finding is HPI Baja
I am using the AE 1000wt oil with good results. 120 diff lock ofna in the front diff.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:16 PM   #934
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Thanks mate - any particular brand? all I seem to be finding is HPI Baja

there are a few, yes associated does one like what Jamison R said, theres also:
mugen
kyosho
mumeisha

which all do 1000 weight diff oil. im sure there are other also.
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Old 03-07-2011, 06:46 PM   #935
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Originally Posted by Jamison R View Post
I am using the AE 1000wt oil with good results. 120 diff lock ofna in the front diff.
Cheers, so am I to understand that you have 2 gear diffs i.l.o. spool to front and gear diff to rear?
Is there a performance difference with the two?
Has anyone tried out the 3racing gear diff? I have heard it suits the 416/417 and with almost half the price. not sure about quality though
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:11 PM   #936
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Don't use the 3R unless you like snapping belts and stripping the internal gears!

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The plastic hubs are a lot more durable, but also more inconsistent, IMO. Switching for the carbon reinforced ones will give a bit sharper steering, although more prone to breaking. Personally, I no longer bother running the plastics, and just run the risk of breaking a c-hub... does teach you not too try and hit as much stuff (not that I have mind! )
c'mon Ed the carbon c-hubs are about twice the size they were when we were snapping them like twigs with the original 416. I think I only broke one the whole time I ran the X, so feel free to hit as much stuff as you like with them

Quote:
Originally Posted by I)arkness View Post
for the rear, most people have been using 1000wt oil.
1000wt is popular because lighter oil leaks out of the spec R diff. People run much lighter (e.g. MM400 shock oil) in other diffs.

I've also heard you can use the xray NT1 big oring on the spec R to stop the leaking through the gasket. Haven't tried that tho
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:50 PM   #937
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emerge View Post
Cheers, so am I to understand that you have 2 gear diffs i.l.o. spool to front and gear diff to rear?
Is there a performance difference with the two?
Has anyone tried out the 3racing gear diff? I have heard it suits the 416/417 and with almost half the price. not sure about quality though
hi, im using 3racing gear diff. it perfectly fit both 416 n 417. quality is good also.
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Old 03-07-2011, 08:54 PM   #938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Don't use the 3R unless you like snapping belts and stripping the internal gears!
hi craig. im use 3R gear diff n i didn't have any problem on belts n internal gear.
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Old 03-07-2011, 10:31 PM   #939
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hi guys, just thought I'd share something. I am waiting on some alloy C hubs for my car, but I also discovered I had a few sets of evo4 C hubs in my old 415MS box from years ago. I paired them up against the 417/TA05IFS hubs, the are different, not as much distance for the knuckle to fit in, so I took about a 1mm or so maybe a touch more out of the hub with a small file, put the flanges in and the knuckle fits perfectly. Only difference is, now I didnt fit the small 0.7mm spacer between the top of the knuckle and the top flange, I put it on the top king pin to stop the screw going in too far and jamming up the CVD, also I thing that keep the roll centre the same. I'll take a pic later. very easy.

The Evo4 Hubs are 4 degrees, made from the less brittle plastic, but are very beefy, lots of extra material on them compared with the TA05IFS/417 C hubs. And Once fitted, I had one modded evo4 hub on one side and one stock 417/TA05IFS hub on the other, I dare say the evo 4 hub has less flex, due to the more rigid/beefy design. another good thing, No stuffing around fitting that spacer in between the knuckle and the flange while fitting the top king pin screw, and they are cheap!

I think I'd rather use them than alloy
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:07 AM   #940
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The first pic is a modded evo4 hub, left(in the pic), the middle is a stock evo4 hub and the right(in the pic) hub is a stock 417 hub.

The second pic is, top(furthest away) is modded evo4, middle is stock evo4 and closest(bottom) is a stock 417 hub.

the third pic is a stock 417 on the left, modded evo4 on the right.

The fourth pic is the modded Evo 4 hub on my 417.

The thickness of the top section of a stock evo4 hub is 3.95mm, to make the knuckle fit, with flanges (no spacer) you need to take it down to 3.25mm. so 0.7mm. To allow space for the 0.7mm spacer as per kit, you'd have to take out more, but I have fitted that spacer onto the top kingpin screw, to clear the CVD and I'm pretty sure it gives factory height/roll centre.

I know most people prob dont want to stuff around modding stuff. But for those who do, its easy, maybe 5 mins per hub. evo4 hubs are like $3.50 and with alloy knuckles, should be pretty strong. I also fitted some .2mm spacers between the hub on the outer suspension pins, between the c hub and the arms. just reduced some play, yet no binding.

Cheers, Jack
Attached Thumbnails
Tamiya TRF417-c-hubs-1.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-c-hubs-2.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-c-hubs-3.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-c-hubs-4.1.jpg  
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:25 AM   #941
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Arrowmax released option parts for TRF416/417 ...
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Old 03-08-2011, 07:53 AM   #942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack2 View Post
The first pic is a modded evo4 hub, left(in the pic), the middle is a stock evo4 hub and the right(in the pic) hub is a stock 417 hub.

The second pic is, top(furthest away) is modded evo4, middle is stock evo4 and closest(bottom) is a stock 417 hub.

the third pic is a stock 417 on the left, modded evo4 on the right.

The fourth pic is the modded Evo 4 hub on my 417.

The thickness of the top section of a stock evo4 hub is 3.95mm, to make the knuckle fit, with flanges (no spacer) you need to take it down to 3.25mm. so 0.7mm. To allow space for the 0.7mm spacer as per kit, you'd have to take out more, but I have fitted that spacer onto the top kingpin screw, to clear the CVD and I'm pretty sure it gives factory height/roll centre.

I know most people prob dont want to stuff around modding stuff. But for those who do, its easy, maybe 5 mins per hub. evo4 hubs are like $3.50 and with alloy knuckles, should be pretty strong. I also fitted some .2mm spacers between the hub on the outer suspension pins, between the c hub and the arms. just reduced some play, yet no binding.

Cheers, Jack
Have you screwed the steering knucle also EvoIV style? or the original style?
What about the "nose" at the steering knuckle when you go to maximum steering angle. does it match the C-Hub the same way as it matches the original? I other words do you gain the same steering?

Greetings Rainer
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Old 03-08-2011, 12:13 PM   #943
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Originally Posted by Blueman Austria View Post
Have you screwed the steering knucle also EvoIV style? or the original style?
What about the "nose" at the steering knuckle when you go to maximum steering angle. does it match the C-Hub the same way as it matches the original? I other words do you gain the same steering?

Greetings Rainer
The knuckles do touch the C hub, but way fast where I have my full lock. so I dont think its a problem. I will post a pic later of the amount of lock.

regarding the screws, it the same as the 417, except for the 0.7mm spacer, which now goes on the top kingpin screw rather than on top of the knuckle, between the flange.

hope this helps
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:22 AM   #944
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Default Spur and pinion

Does anyone know the min and max number of teeth you can run on the 417 (ie spur + pinion)? I think the minimum may be 103, also does anyone know the largest spur you can fit on the car, all these questions are 48dp specific
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Old 03-09-2011, 01:01 AM   #945
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this is the lock with the modded Evo4 hubs. the servo saver is touching, and the knuckles are just touching the hubs, but this is way past my full lock.
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Tamiya TRF417-lock-417.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-417-lock-2.jpg   Tamiya TRF417-417-lock-3.jpg  
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