4LikesTamiya TRF417
02-07-2011, 07:31 AM
#676
Cheers for the reply, I will defenetly try that for sunday.
Another question, on the sterring crank, the dual thingy, when I tighten the 2 screws holding the rotating part, my steering will get stuck :-( so I have to unscrew them abit and its a litle lose, is this normal ?
Finally, is anyone using weights on the side of their lipo battery the balance ?
I remember on my cyclone, even with weights on the batt side, the car woupd stillean on t motor side, but on the 417, can I remover the weights ?
Thanks alot :-)
Another question, on the sterring crank, the dual thingy, when I tighten the 2 screws holding the rotating part, my steering will get stuck :-( so I have to unscrew them abit and its a litle lose, is this normal ?
Finally, is anyone using weights on the side of their lipo battery the balance ?
I remember on my cyclone, even with weights on the batt side, the car woupd stillean on t motor side, but on the 417, can I remover the weights ?
Thanks alot :-)
As for the weight, pretty much is dependent on the electronics and so on used. I know with mine I need to add a little on the front right to balance it up.
HiH
Ed
02-07-2011, 07:59 AM
#677
I had the same problem with the steering on my 417 
In step #8 of the manual I just doubled up on the shims. I put the shims in as directed, but also put the same set of shims (BB13 & BB10) on the screw (BA1) before I passed it through the bearings in the block (BB20).
Works free and smooth... although I could not figure out why I needed to do this.
In step #8 of the manual I just doubled up on the shims. I put the shims in as directed, but also put the same set of shims (BB13 & BB10) on the screw (BA1) before I passed it through the bearings in the block (BB20).
Works free and smooth... although I could not figure out why I needed to do this.
02-07-2011, 09:00 AM
#678
For 17.5T, would Spool/gear diff works better or Gear diff front and back?
02-07-2011, 09:22 AM
#679
Do the following;
Build as kit, except
put the white (F) and blue (R) springs on the car.
Droop to 6/5 on a gauge (I think is about 2mm/3mm over ride height, dependent on tyre dia).
Fill the shocks with 450-500wt oil, remove the red foam from the top of the shock cap.
Put on the track and drive...
Seriously, that'll be a very good starting point on carpet. It's hard to suggest absolute settings, but that should give a good starting point for sure.
HiH
Ed
Build as kit, except
put the white (F) and blue (R) springs on the car.
Droop to 6/5 on a gauge (I think is about 2mm/3mm over ride height, dependent on tyre dia).
Fill the shocks with 450-500wt oil, remove the red foam from the top of the shock cap.
Put on the track and drive...
Seriously, that'll be a very good starting point on carpet. It's hard to suggest absolute settings, but that should give a good starting point for sure.
HiH
Ed
I'm interested in learning more about the cause and effect of removing the red foam from the shock cap. I've always ran it on my previous Tamiya TCs and was wondering what change I'll see in the overall car and/or shock handling characteristics.
Thanks.
02-07-2011, 10:08 AM
#680
02-09-2011, 01:02 PM
#681
Spur Gear Issues
Just bought a bunch of Yeah Racing 64 pitch spur gears for my 417 and the noise coming from the gear is horrid. I've set the mesh properly, checked the pinion and spur wasn't rubbing the top deck all is fine.. Yet it still continues this noise.. Any one encounter such issues? Also I tried putting graphite grease on the gears to reduce the noise.
Cheers,
Edward
Cheers,
Edward
02-09-2011, 03:10 PM
#682
Just bought a bunch of Yeah Racing 64 pitch spur gears for my 417 and the noise coming from the gear is horrid. I've set the mesh properly, checked the pinion and spur wasn't rubbing the top deck all is fine.. Yet it still continues this noise.. Any one encounter such issues? Also I tried putting graphite grease on the gears to reduce the noise.
Cheers,
Edward
Cheers,
Edward
the buys at the local track run 48 as the small stones etc apparently destroy the 64p too quickly
02-10-2011, 12:01 AM
#689
Personally, I never run the foam any more, and switch between sealed and drilled top caps, depending on the affect and feel I'm after.
Give it a try, you might be suprised at the results.
Regards
Ed
02-10-2011, 12:05 AM
#690
Basically, removing the foam removes a lot of the pack from the shocks, and makes the car much smoother to drive. Coupled with drilling a hole in the top of the shock cap (to let out the compressed air), and you can dramitically change the feeling of the car, and also better set the rebound level.
Personally, I never run the foam any more, and switch between sealed and drilled top caps, depending on the affect and feel I'm after.
Give it a try, you might be suprised at the results.
Regards
Ed
Personally, I never run the foam any more, and switch between sealed and drilled top caps, depending on the affect and feel I'm after.
Give it a try, you might be suprised at the results.
Regards
Ed
This method works best on high grip track. Back home where the grip is low, I don't quite like the feel. A lil inconsistent