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Old 02-22-2014, 01:41 AM   #6346
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I've been playing around with my two Futaba servos this weekend, and notice both (9550 & 9551) have tons of travel going left, but not the same going right. To fix this I have pulled back the steering travel to the left. I have tried both aluminium servo horns and servo savers.

Now I think I have read in this thread about people having similar issues with Futaba servos and the 417. Is there a better brand of servo that gives more even travel than the Futabas?
Have you adjusted the sub trim(centre position) on your radio? If you're using a futaba radio, the manual goes through a way to set up channel mixing that gives the servo more throw in the desired direction. I've got my bls551 getting equal throw left and right using this method.
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Old 02-22-2014, 02:57 AM   #6347
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Have you adjusted the sub trim(centre position) on your radio? If you're using a futaba radio, the manual goes through a way to set up channel mixing that gives the servo more throw in the desired direction. I've got my bls551 getting equal throw left and right using this method.
I've got a Spektrum DX3R Pro, and have had a look at sub trim, but not mixing. I'll see what is required to do that with that controller. Thanks for the tip!
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:52 AM   #6348
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I've got a Spektrum DX3R Pro, and have had a look at sub trim, but not mixing. I'll see what is required to do that with that controller. Thanks for the tip!
I setup my steering servo as follows
Mount servo in the car and make sure all radio settings (sub trim and trim are on 0).
Turn the car on, and mount the servo horn on the servo so it is angled in towards the centre of the car (see 417 manual).
Make sure steering links are the same length and then put the car on the setup station, adjusting the subtrim until the toe is equal left and right.
Now the steering is centred and and the car should track in a straight line with 0 steering trim.
Adjust the steering throw on the radio to get equal left and right throw on the setup station.
Most of the time the car will track straight if it isn't tweaked, if it isn't tracking straight in the warm up before a race, adjust the steering trim to make it track straight for the race, and check for tweak after the race.

Using a longer servo horn will also give you more left and right throw.
Hope this helps
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Old 02-22-2014, 04:31 PM   #6349
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Rather than adjusting subtrim to get center, you can also adjust the center link if you are close. This way the servo remains at true center and max physical travel is not affected left or right.
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Old 02-23-2014, 01:44 AM   #6350
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I've done a mix channel, as narcotiks suggested. I guess I should read the manual sometime! That's probably where I have got it wrong. Thank you for the extra information narcotiks, I will play around with that a bit more.
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:13 PM   #6351
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Loving my 417x on carpet ..... but in breaking c-hubs like crazy .... what's the fix ? More flexible ta05 c-hubs? Or aluminum
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Old 02-23-2014, 08:10 PM   #6352
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Loving my 417x on carpet ..... but in breaking c-hubs like crazy .... what's the fix ? More flexible ta05 c-hubs? Or aluminum
I've always preferred the softer plastic ones, they're not indestructable, but they can take more hits than the harder ones.....
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:28 AM   #6353
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Loving my 417x on carpet ..... but in breaking c-hubs like crazy .... what's the fix ? More flexible ta05 c-hubs? Or aluminum
Best fix would be to hit stuff less
The softer non carbon re enforced c hubs might take a few more hits but will still break in hard hits and could potentially make you traction roll from the increased traction (on carpet).
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Old 02-24-2014, 07:20 AM   #6354
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I also had the issue of breaking c-hubs. Other than improving my driving...which will take some time...was to buy a full width front foam bumper to replace the stock one. It has to be full width so it is as wide as the outside of the front tires. Once I did this, breaking c-hubs has not happened in over a month.
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:58 PM   #6355
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Talking new C-hubs

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I also had the issue of breaking c-hubs. Other than improving my driving...which will take some time...was to buy a full width front foam bumper to replace the stock one. It has to be full width so it is as wide as the outside of the front tires. Once I did this, breaking c-hubs has not happened in over a month.
Tamiya is coming out with a new C-hub, it's appears to be thicker and wider to compensate for the DJ axles. Not sure when they will make it to the hobby stores, but is coming soon!
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Old 02-24-2014, 01:59 PM   #6356
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Tamiya is coming out with a new C-hub, it's appears to be thicker and wider to compensate for the DJ axles. Not sure when they will make it to the hobby stores, but is coming soon!
Thanks, I didn't realize they had a new design in the works! Good to know
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Old 02-24-2014, 04:21 PM   #6357
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Best fix would be to hit stuff less
The softer non carbon re enforced c hubs might take a few more hits but will still break in hard hits and could potentially make you traction roll from the increased traction (on carpet).
I barely even tapped the pipes !
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:04 AM   #6358
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I barely even tapped the pipes !
...that's what they all say...
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Old 02-25-2014, 08:33 AM   #6359
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Tamiya is coming out with a new C-hub, it's appears to be thicker and wider to compensate for the DJ axles. Not sure when they will make it to the hobby stores, but is coming soon!
Says in the description "carbon reinforced" so I doubt it will lead to fewer broken hubs but I agree it will make the changing/cleaning of the axles easier. The 418 has the same hubs and I've already broken one of those so I switched to the more flexible TA05 C hubs (51293).
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Old 02-26-2014, 01:39 PM   #6360
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Just received a first generation 417 in a trade. Does the gear diff II drop right in or are there other parts I need to purchase to swap out the ball diff? Car looks pretty much stock, any upgrades I need to buy to go asphalt racing on a low grip track?
Thanks in advance!
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