Originally Posted by narcotiks

Could you fill out a setup sheet? They are available on petit rc.
Do you mean corner entry understeer? Also, are is this on carpet or asphalt?

Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO

Put shims in or take out

Originally Posted by dizope

How can I get my car to have more initial steering, if that is the proper description? My car pushes on corner entry when on power. And it pushes on corner exit when on power as well.

417v5
Sorex 32
TRF dampers with 32.5
HPI silver springs
5.5 ride height
4.5 droop measured with under the arm
.5 under suspension blocks
b/split b (front)
xb/c rear (2.5 rear toe in)
.5 front toe in per side
roughly 25 degrees of steering throw
Tamiya aluminum servo saver horn using kit springs (link)
shocks are in hole 4
-1.5 front camber
-2.0 rear camber
no wheel spacers
stock sway bars
3k diff oil
front spool
3mm shim under inside front camber link
All other settings per the manual

Airtronics MT-4 with 92524
Tekin 17.5 Gen2 blinky
Tekin RS Gen2

Things I've tried with no real success:
- changed Savox 1251 to 1258
- took sway bars off
- turned the steering expo all the way up
- v5 shocks with Tamiya springs (front 32.5/white) (rear 25/white/yellow)
- stood front shocks up to hole 6
- removed 4 screws (inside) from the top deck
- drag brake between 0 and 30%

A friend has a v5 that has incredible steering with a mostly stock setup (no sway bars) but for the life of me, I can't get mine to turn like his does. I even put his RX in and tried it with his TX (different brand).

The strange thing is I rebuilt the car and went to Tamiya in LA 2 weeks ago for the Speedtech race and the car ran awesome. Ran the next week at home on our sealed parking lot track and it was back to usual; push monster.

Originally Posted by CraigM

Why so narrow? B/B XB/C with no wheel shims is too narrow. C/C XA/E with 0.5mm wheel shims should be the starting setup for all tracks. You've also got about 1mm too much front droop which also causes push on power

Originally Posted by dizope

In this case, would it be okay to make both changes at once (widen and reduce droop)?

Originally Posted by CraigM

Increasing the camber link angle (at either end) increases camber gain which provides more traction grip as the car rolls. It's most noticeable from mid corner to exit when the car is rolling the most.

I think the effect of the roll centre change is negligible when we're talking about 0.5mm-1mm difference on the camber link. If I want to change RC I always use shims under the suspension blocks.

Originally Posted by CraigM

Yep I'd try both changes and tune from there

Originally Posted by CraigM

You can either take shims out of the front bulkhead or add shims to the c-hub


Why so narrow? B/B XB/C with no wheel shims is too narrow. C/C XA/E with 0.5mm wheel shims should be the starting setup for all tracks. You've also got about 1mm too much front droop which also causes push on power

Originally Posted by ittjv

dizope,
Toe that sucker out too if you want more initial steering. That's probably what you're missing.

Originally Posted by dizope

To how much? I'll try that one next.

Originally Posted by ittjv

Most setup guides say no more than 1 degree in either direction. I would start by going to 0 at each wheel, then .5 and then 1 degree. Good luck.

Originally Posted by CraigM

Question for people: would it help if I post a base set up along with some tuning tips? if so, what 417 version are most people running?

Originally Posted by ATLASCOPCO

Craig
Sorry to be a pain in the ass
So you are saying that it's best to reduce shim size from under the block ???
I do have a 1mm under the. F/f & f/r

Originally Posted by dizope

Sounds good, I'll swap things around tonight. I have 1XA in 1-piece and separate, which would you recommend?

Originally Posted by CraigM

I always run split because it's easier to drive. 1pc can give a bit more rotation/corner speed