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Old 10-18-2013, 07:59 PM   #6136
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Quick question. I'm upgrading my 417 to the split mount in the front rear only. The one piece block has a 3mm and a 0.7 shim under the block when upside down, on top of the 0.5shim for the block.do I need to add.anything else to make it equal where it was before?
Good question I put split blocks in F/R an took out my one piece and I have 2 of the thin shims in the F/F. What do you want Anti dive or Anti squat?
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Old 10-18-2013, 11:12 PM   #6137
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Good question I put split blocks in F/R an took out my one piece and I have 2 of the thin shims in the F/F. What do you want Anti dive or Anti squat?
Just roughly where the hinge level was before with the stock block
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Old 10-19-2013, 10:26 AM   #6138
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I decided to try the Aluminum Front Knuckle Arms from 3Racing for my 417 but noticed the standard Swing arm/Axle assembly does not fit as the clip that holds the pin in (the axle ring) rubs. Is there an axle set up I can switch to that does not have the axle ring that works with these. I found ones from Spec.R that look like they would work but didn't want to drop another $37 just to see if they would.
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Old 10-20-2013, 03:52 AM   #6139
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hi guys,

Do you run spool or gear diff in carpet for front? I tried both and found gear diff with 70 ride putty is more consistant but with spool I can achieve better one-lap time.

What is your opinion?

Thanks,
Marton
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Old 10-20-2013, 06:19 AM   #6140
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A spool hands down was faster at our track....... But we have been running on worn low to med grip carpet. Now with new ozite I'm not sure yet. In 2 weeks time the grip level came up so much it is already more than we had all last season. The grip is making the car feel very "darty" with the spool and consistency has gone down for me. Might have to try a gear diff again just to see how fast it is now and compare after I give it more time for me to get used to a spool on a high grip track.
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Old 10-20-2013, 10:46 AM   #6141
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SSLS1 - thanks. Please update if you have tried gear diff again. :-)

Two questions regarding shocks:
1. Do you use tamiya VG oil or silicon oil. anyone can tell what's the difference, if any? ( (I use VG oil and didnt experience any issue so far. I used it both for carpet and asphalt as well. Maybe I dont know what I have missed so far :-))

2. do you drill 1mm hole in the normal trf damper cap to let the air out? I have heart it can help to have minimum rebund, however I believe it can be very tricky if the holes are not the same. Jill pro tips video didnt say anything about it.

thanks
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PS: hope I dont ask too many :-)
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Old 10-20-2013, 12:20 PM   #6142
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Marton, personally I only use silicone shock oils as that is what I already have around for my off road vehicles. Nothing more than that.

We have a bumpy track so yes I/we do drill the standard TRF shock caps to vent the air above the shock bladders under compression. This does help with achieving zero or even negative rebound (assuming no foam plug is used above the shock bladder). This has helped give the cars more grip on the bumpy track.

The hole is just an air vent, not a piston hole that would affect dampening so not ultra critical IMO. Just use the same drill bit on all 4 shock caps and you should be good.
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Old 10-20-2013, 02:23 PM   #6143
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Could someone tell me what this shock rebound and drilling caps stuff do? Or Anything on shocks and the effects and why. I don't fully understand much of this. Any info is appreciated, thanks
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Old 10-20-2013, 08:00 PM   #6144
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I decided to try the Aluminum Front Knuckle Arms from 3Racing for my 417 but noticed the standard Swing arm/Axle assembly does not fit as the clip that holds the pin in (the axle ring) rubs. Is there an axle set up I can switch to that does not have the axle ring that works with these. I found ones from Spec.R that look like they would work but didn't want to drop another $37 just to see if they would.
Not the answer you want to hear but drop the aluminum knuckles and keep the Tamiya axles as they are the best (most durable) IMO. Seen too many problems with aftermarket axles that I will only run the Tamiya pieces. If you must run the aluminum knuckles then clearance them with a Dremel to work with the stock Tamiya axles and you will likely not have any axle reliability issues.
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Old 10-20-2013, 09:27 PM   #6145
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hi guys,

Do you run spool or gear diff in carpet for front? I tried both and found gear diff with 70 ride putty is more consistant but with spool I can achieve better one-lap time.

What is your opinion?

Thanks,
Marton
I prefer the gear diff 100 times better. Our track is outdoors and bumpy with medium-high traction. With the spool and manual setup it would slightly push no matter what. Dropped the gear diff with 3racinf 600k and I gained a ton of steering and more consistency. As far as lap times goes I went from 15.50ish range to 14.90s. I'm gonna take a small portion out and add a small of portion of 1million mixed with the 600k and see how that goes.

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Old 10-21-2013, 02:48 AM   #6146
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Originally Posted by nolo148 View Post
Could someone tell me what this shock rebound and drilling caps stuff do? Or Anything on shocks and the effects and why. I don't fully understand much of this. Any info is appreciated, thanks
Less rebound increases grip especially at low speed, but takes away corner speed and change of direction. The drilled cap makes the shock really dead, like even less rebound
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Old 10-21-2013, 09:08 AM   #6147
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Not the answer you want to hear but drop the aluminum knuckles and keep the Tamiya axles as they are the best (most durable) IMO. Seen too many problems with aftermarket axles that I will only run the Tamiya pieces. If you must run the aluminum knuckles then clearance them with a Dremel to work with the stock Tamiya axles and you will likely not have any axle reliability issues.
Thanks that's actually the answer I was expecting. As the aluminum knuckles were only $14 I'd rather not spend another $37 on the Spec.R axles hoping they fit. I like the Dremel idea and I may try it for future use (if I ever break the Tamiya knuckle and need a replacement in a pinch).
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:04 AM   #6148
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Thanks that's actually the answer I was expecting. As the aluminum knuckles were only $14 I'd rather not spend another $37 on the Spec.R axles hoping they fit. I like the Dremel idea and I may try it for future use (if I ever break the Tamiya knuckle and need a replacement in a pinch).

Are you talking about the c-clip around the axle to hold the pin in? I think the stock ones have a higher profile than the spec-r. I can double check tonight as I run the spec-r dual joints front and rear although I have stock c-hubs and knuckles. You'll likely never break a knuckle, c-hub most likely. ill post pics when I get time tonight.
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Old 10-21-2013, 11:25 AM   #6149
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Hi all

Despite the 417 being really good, I decided to try out the Sepes Racing conversion set to see if it takes the car to the next level. I have to admit I'm pretty impressed with the results. The car is transformed on carpet, much more consistent and the direction change is sharper.

here is a link to the review on my blog.

http://www.thercracer.com/2013/10/se...rsion-set.html
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Old 10-21-2013, 12:18 PM   #6150
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CraigM - so you dont suggest to drill the hole? :-) The new aeration damper has more negative rebound than the old one - I felt they are "dead". If the result by drilling normal TRF damper was very similar, definitely I wont try it for carpet, since aeration didnt work for me last time. :-( I assembled it as per manual w/o drill the hole, result 100% negative pressure. Normal TRF shock worked way better with 450 oil, 3 holes.
What do you think about Tamiya VG oils vs silicion oil?

Mr.Juarez - did you try ride putty? I have 40 and 70. What do you think would be similar in oil?

SS LS1 - thanks. I will try silicion oil as well. drilling - still considering to try or not :-). I have found a link in petitrc - trf 416 setings, which says to drill a hole in regular damper, but in the pro video he doesnt say anything. however in the link he suggest to have some rebound in carpet (5mm).....

thanks
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