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Old 10-09-2013, 07:07 PM   #6091
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I'm looking at getting a second hand 417 for VTA/Vintage Touring racing.

I did a Google search for 417 front gear diff but only getting results for the rear gear diffs.

What is the part number for the front gear diff?
The same gear diff works in both front and rear.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:54 PM   #6092
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Originally Posted by Burlap View Post
I'm looking at getting a second hand 417 for VTA/Vintage Touring racing.

I did a Google search for 417 front gear diff but only getting results for the rear gear diffs.

What is the part number for the front gear diff?
#42197
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=1865

You'll want this too
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=5751
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:32 PM   #6093
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and steel gears too!!!
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:05 PM   #6094
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burlap View Post
I'm looking at getting a second hand 417 for VTA/Vintage Touring racing.

I did a Google search for 417 front gear diff but only getting results for the rear gear diffs.

What is the part number for the front gear diff?
TRF417 Gear Diff II part number 42197, surely it can be used in the front like the rear.

edit. must be a 1 hr delay?? did not see responses above
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Last edited by bobbyvegas; 10-09-2013 at 09:08 PM. Reason: weird delay
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Old 10-10-2013, 01:21 AM   #6095
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Thanks for the info. I didn't know you could run the same diff front and rear, I've been too used to running the 415 where the pulley was right in the middle at the front.
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Old 10-10-2013, 04:44 AM   #6096
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
Not much I put a small amount in the idler gears teeth.
That's nowhere near enough, you need to pack it fairly tight or it will diff out on power

To pack mine I put the sun gear in, put some putty in, then put the planetary gears in and press down, then pull bits of putty and stab them in with a driver. A little more putty on top and close the diff

It should not be possible to turn the outdrives by hand, but if you put wheels on the car or put drivers through the outdrive you should be able to turn them. For the first few laps it will feel like a spool on track, then the putty will warm up and it will gain grip and steering - the car doesn't feel super consistent during the run but IMO on asphalt it's better than a spool
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Old 10-10-2013, 06:29 AM   #6097
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Race Berry Stuff still available!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...s-sellout.html
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Old 10-12-2013, 12:00 PM   #6098
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Hi,

Quick "greener" question :-). thx for the comments in advance.

1. how much "spacer" should it put under front pivot block not to have anti-dive if I replace split mount with fix in the front-rear (1Xb to B). As a kit set up, there is 0.5-0.5m.

2. If you run on very high grip carpet - using front: white, rear blue tamiya springs - what oil would you use to "loose" some grip since car is oversteering can roll over :-(. I used 450#. front dampers in the 3rd hole, rear in the 5th..... I felt my car too soft.

Thanks
Marton
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Old 10-12-2013, 06:22 PM   #6099
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Originally Posted by Marcika View Post
Hi,

Quick "greener" question :-). thx for the comments in advance.

1. how much "spacer" should it put under front pivot block not to have anti-dive if I replace split mount with fix in the front-rear (1Xb to B). As a kit set up, there is 0.5-0.5m.

2. If you run on very high grip carpet - using front: white, rear blue tamiya springs - what oil would you use to "loose" some grip since car is oversteering can roll over :-(. I used 450#. front dampers in the 3rd hole, rear in the 5th..... I felt my car too soft.

Thanks
Marton
with a solid in the front inner block position, 3mm would equate to no shim under a split block. Adding 0.5 (total of 3.5mm) would be like 0.5 under a split block.

The over steer and over roll will be caused by your shock positions...
Stand your front shocks up to hole 5 , and lay your rear shocks down to hole 4. If that doesn't fix the over steer then go up in shock oil to 500.
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Old 10-12-2013, 07:56 PM   #6100
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Today I got the chance to run with the smokem V7 chassis and have to say I was really impressed. The car ended up being unsettling when making quick adjustments at high speeds, the infamous kink at Tamiya America track. I found that putting grub screws in both the upper and lower front motor mount through the chassis and top deck fixed the problem. I also ended using DCJs in the rear today for the first time and really liked how they helped the car with rotational speed it seemed like the car liked to carry more speed around the long bends the track has.

In short I have to say I strongly recommend this upgrade kit for people that aren't jumping for the raceberry.
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Old 10-12-2013, 09:27 PM   #6101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcika View Post
Hi,

Quick "greener" question :-). thx for the comments in advance.

1. how much "spacer" should it put under front pivot block not to have anti-dive if I replace split mount with fix in the front-rear (1Xb to B). As a kit set up, there is 0.5-0.5m.

2. If you run on very high grip carpet - using front: white, rear blue tamiya springs - what oil would you use to "loose" some grip since car is oversteering can roll over :-(. I used 450#. front dampers in the 3rd hole, rear in the 5th..... I felt my car too soft.

Thanks
Marton
ok if there is high traction and you're grip rolling run C-C front witj 0.5 mm under the block both solid block the softest sway bar go to 400 cst oil and the shocks down to second last hole from the bottom and run 1 or 1.5 mm shims on the wheels also in the rear same oil same shock position and XA-E and soft swaybar and no shims in the wheel the whole idea is to make car soft so it can roll around the corners and not traction roll hope it helps.and also you add the wheel shims to make the cae wider so its not edgey for the tires to grip and make you traction roll.
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Old 10-12-2013, 11:02 PM   #6102
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Narcotics - thanks. stock position were given from the top to bottom, I might confuse you. So I think I was close to your advise. stock was assembled as jill tip (piston fully up). I will try to go up in oil (holes 3).

NGO8 - thanks, very interesting theory. I will try next time. however I do feel the softer my car the more traction it has. As I can read you make wider the front and narrower the rear? What camber would you suggest?

the motor is 12T brushless, so speed is quite high. camber front 1.5, rear 2. toe 2, gear diff - 70 putty front, 2000 oil rear, sway bar - hard fron, soft rear. I found gear diff in front is better than solid.
BTW - i put cement on the outer edge of the front tyres and improved a lot - no traction roll -, but I felt still I can gain some speed if car would be more hard...

thanks the tips, keep hearing it :-)!
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Old 10-13-2013, 12:55 AM   #6103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcika View Post
Narcotics - thanks. stock position were given from the top to bottom, I might confuse you. So I think I was close to your advise. stock was assembled as jill tip (piston fully up). I will try to go up in oil (holes 3).

NGO8 - thanks, very interesting theory. I will try next time. however I do feel the softer my car the more traction it has. As I can read you make wider the front and narrower the rear? What camber would you suggest?

the motor is 12T brushless, so speed is quite high. camber front 1.5, rear 2. toe 2, gear diff - 70 putty front, 2000 oil rear, sway bar - hard fron, soft rear. I found gear diff in front is better than solid.
BTW - i put cement on the outer edge of the front tyres and improved a lot - no traction roll -, but I felt still I can gain some speed if car would be more hard...

thanks the tips, keep hearing it :-)!
i always start with camber 1.5 front 2 rear when traction is lower when it gets higher i go to 2F 2.5R ..also with wheel shims one skinny and fat one in front and one skinny one rear ...and if you run hard swaybar you're suspension will not roll enough and catch an edge and traction roll this was explained to me couple years back at a race i went to where i was traction rolling like crazy and making the car harder didnt help also one little trick is sauce youre rear tires first wait 10 minutes and then do the front inside only.... again i race carpet only and these are things to make my car work on high bite carpet .
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Old 10-13-2013, 08:36 AM   #6104
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Can anyone give me a hand on how to fix my issue. Took shocks off car, put droop identical side to side then attached the shocks. When I lift the back end one wheel picks up 1/4 inch than the other. Same with the front but not as much.

Sway bars are equal
I changed from trf shocks to the v5 ones

What's the trick to fixing this or adjust with the opposite front shock?
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Old 10-13-2013, 09:21 AM   #6105
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Can anyone give me a hand on how to fix my issue. Took shocks off car, put droop identical side to side then attached the shocks. When I lift the back end one wheel picks up 1/4 inch than the other. Same with the front but not as much.

Sway bars are equal
I changed from trf shocks to the v5 ones

What's the trick to fixing this or adjust with the opposite front shock?
Double check to make sure you shocks are equal length.

Also you need to make sure the compression on your shocks is equal. If a wheel is raising faster than another you should tighten the shock collar that is diagonally across from it to try to balance it out. For instance is the left rear tire is raising faster than the right rear you should tighten the shock collar on the right front shock and loosen the left front shock collar the same amount. You usually only want to do this type of adjustment by 1/4 turns as you don't want this to affect your ride height.
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