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Old 10-02-2013, 08:08 AM   #6061
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418
Of course, if you got 600+ to blow.....
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:57 AM   #6062
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Does everyone here use the stock Body mount posts for the 417 or are there other options available that offer easier adjustments for different bodies? Or is the option to have multiple sets of body posts for the different bodies one has?
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Old 10-06-2013, 11:28 PM   #6063
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Narcokits & craig thanks for the help amd time. The car was much better this week compared to last week.


Last weeks results were. .

27 laps in 7:11 best lap 15.8 compared to this weeks
28 laps in 7:06 best lap 15.2 (tq and won main)

I stayed late to make sure it wasn't the fact we changed from night racing to daytime, but the car had even more grip at night than last week with same layout in 70* weather using 36 sorex vs 28 from last week.

Now my next question is. What are the differences in "feel" between the arm hole 1&2 front viseversa in rear as well? I've looked at this years and last years setups list on petite rc and they all vary with #1 front being common and #2 rear. Some are at #2 front and #1 rear.just looking for a more detailed explanation between them two as I would like to try it for next weeks layout
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Old 10-07-2013, 12:48 AM   #6064
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Narcokits & craig thanks for the help amd time. The car was much better this week compared to last week.


Last weeks results were. .

27 laps in 7:11 best lap 15.8 compared to this weeks
28 laps in 7:06 best lap 15.2 (tq and won main)

I stayed late to make sure it wasn't the fact we changed from night racing to daytime, but the car had even more grip at night than last week with same layout in 70* weather using 36 sorex vs 28 from last week.

Now my next question is. What are the differences in "feel" between the arm hole 1&2 front viseversa in rear as well? I've looked at this years and last years setups list on petite rc and they all vary with #1 front being common and #2 rear. Some are at #2 front and #1 rear.just looking for a more detailed explanation between them two as I would like to try it for next weeks layout
No worries man
You do need to keep consistent with the tyres you use though, as changing compounds will change the way the car feels. You generally need to stiffen things up (harder springs and shock oil) when using softer tyres, and soften things up (thinner oil and softer springs) these are the bigger changes between tyres but other changes may be necessary.
Hole 2 on the arm (closer to centre of car) makes the shock action softer. it's like lowering your shocks in on the shock tower. Basically gives more steering/front grip but can sometimes make the car push if it starts to overload the front tyres too much, in this case hole 1 would give more front grip/steering. Hole 1 is further out from the centre of the car and makes the front shock action stiffer. Pretty much opposite effects of hole 2.
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:37 AM   #6065
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Does anyone know where get a tamiya 417v5 in Australia? Or order the 418
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Old 10-07-2013, 06:13 AM   #6066
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418
Craig! How you been man?
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Old 10-07-2013, 07:15 AM   #6067
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George I think we both made progress on our cars. George is selling himself short he had one of the best races last week I gave him all I had we were 3 ft apart for most of the race an he ended up with a 3 second win. Great job lets do that again .
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Narcokits & craig thanks for the help amd time. The car was much better this week compared to last week.


Last weeks results were. .

27 laps in 7:11 best lap 15.8 compared to this weeks
28 laps in 7:06 best lap 15.2 (tq and won main)

I stayed late to make sure it wasn't the fact we changed from night racing to daytime, but the car had even more grip at night than last week with same layout in 70* weather using 36 sorex vs 28 from last week.

Now my next question is. What are the differences in "feel" between the arm hole 1&2 front viseversa in rear as well? I've looked at this years and last years setups list on petite rc and they all vary with #1 front being common and #2 rear. Some are at #2 front and #1 rear.just looking for a more detailed explanation between them two as I would like to try it for next weeks layout
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Old 10-07-2013, 10:06 AM   #6068
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In step 7 of the manual the directions say to cut off the ends of the Direct Cups (BB26) but this means the Direct Coupling (BB25) can just slide off and onto the Swing Shaft. Does this mean you don't use the coupling or do they actually stay in place without the ends?
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Old 10-07-2013, 11:48 AM   #6069
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Nope, dont remove the ends until you want to take them off to replace new ones. As you mention the BB25 part will fall off otherwise.

There will be a new direct coupling out soon for TA06/417/418 which will just fit on and allow you to use the swing shaft protectors.
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Old 10-07-2013, 04:17 PM   #6070
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Craig! How you been man?
Hey Sean! Been awesome, I'll email you
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Old 10-07-2013, 05:02 PM   #6071
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Nope, dont remove the ends until you want to take them off to replace new ones. As you mention the BB25 part will fall off otherwise.

There will be a new direct coupling out soon for TA06/417/418 which will just fit on and allow you to use the swing shaft protectors.
Figures! I tore my car apart Saturday night to give it a good cleaning and replace a bunch of missing screws when I saw the instruction to cut the ends off.

Oh well lesson #2 learned.

Is it okay to run the car without the Direct Coupling sleeves in place or is this a really bad idea? I have new Direct Cups on order, so no big deal if this is a bad idea.

BTW lesson #1 was to take the car off the track every 30 minutes or so and tighten all the screws on the bottom of the deck. I had the local track to myself Saturday morning and was getting in some good practice when after about 90 minutes the whole front end collapsed. I had lost 5 screws!
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Old 10-07-2013, 09:25 PM   #6072
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No worries man
You do need to keep consistent with the tyres you use though, as changing compounds will change the way the car feels. You generally need to stiffen things up (harder springs and shock oil) when using softer tyres, and soften things up (thinner oil and softer springs) these are the bigger changes between tyres but other changes may be necessary.
Hole 2 on the arm (closer to centre of car) makes the shock action softer. it's like lowering your shocks in on the shock tower. Basically gives more steering/front grip but can sometimes make the car push if it starts to overload the front tyres too much, in this case hole 1 would give more front grip/steering. Hole 1 is further out from the centre of the car and makes the front shock action stiffer. Pretty much opposite effects of hole 2.
Got some reading to do!!

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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
George I think we both made progress on our cars. George is selling himself short he had one of the best races last week I gave him all I had we were 3 ft apart for most of the race an he ended up with a 3 second win. Great job lets do that again .
That was an amazing race to watch I bet. I had tears when we were all done with the main. I felt as if I blinked I would have made a mistake.!! That risky moves we made through traffic were crazy

I was contemplating running gt2 this weekend and see how it does. Or if heats are far apart swap motors each heat and mains



Jeff loctite man! !
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:27 AM   #6073
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Tired of losing the 1.5mm spacers between topdeck and bulkheads when using the (SRP or raceberry) conversion set? SRP offers 1.5mm spacers blocks that can be glued on the bulkheads, it can also be used without glue and prevent a tweaked chassis.
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Old 10-08-2013, 09:38 AM   #6074
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Jeff loctite man! !
LOL thanks, I do have some, guess I'll put it to use.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:14 AM   #6075
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LOL thanks, I do have some, guess I'll put it to use.
I use the crap out of it with stock and titanium screws, however I don't use with my aluminum screws as I learned the hard way with my associated. I recheck them every heat.

Tqrcracing.com has all you need
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