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Old 10-01-2013, 03:51 AM   #6046
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By front kick up you mean the small .5 front spacer under the block? Yes car has ridiculously front grip even before the smokem parts.

I was running blues front and yellow rears, but someone suggested me to go softer that night so I did in hopes to solve the issue. (Which I didn't wash out as much but it could be that that traction came up a little bit too)

I'm not running sway bars at the moment.

Some also suggested me to try out david jun set up from tamiya as a start up, do you agree?
Yep kick up is that front spacer. I would never run that on our car, it increases weight transfer and castor. Normally we do the opposite by adding shims under the FR block to give anti-dive.

David Jun's setup is basiclaly kit, it should get around ok. I think you'll find just fixing the kick-up, running asphalt springs (HPI silver, ride red) and runnning sway bars will solve your problems
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Old 10-01-2013, 05:32 AM   #6047
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Heaps of parts for sale cheap!

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...s-sellout.html
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Old 10-01-2013, 12:26 PM   #6048
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in a used car deal i picked up a bunch of TC springs, can anyone help me identify them? the 4 sets top left are tamiya's, all the others i'm not sure

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Old 10-01-2013, 12:56 PM   #6049
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in a used car deal i picked up a bunch of TC springs, can anyone help me identify them? the 4 sets top left are tamiya's, all the others i'm not sure
The white springs with pink, blue, black, green, and orange look like Yokomo.

Not sure about the black ones. They don't look like HPI.

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Old 10-01-2013, 12:57 PM   #6050
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The bottom springs I believe they are RSD. You can check the spring rate on the RSD web site.
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Old 10-01-2013, 01:01 PM   #6051
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The bottom springs I believe they are RSD. You can check the spring rate on the RSD web site.
i think i read about someone using them on the 417's, thanks... off to google machine

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The white springs with pink, blue, black, green, and orange look like Yokomo.
ahhh. i've heard of people using the yoks.... from a quick rate search.... pink/front-blue/rear be about the same as white/blue tamiyas?
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:13 PM   #6052
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This should hopefully solve your loose problems. I remember you saying you ran on ashpault? This is an asphault setup so yeah.
Tamiya springs dont work well on ashpault and running no sway bars would have caused problems. I cant remember if I added the rear diff oil in the setup but run 2000.
Important to note: front shock mounting position in the arm to hole 1 (you need to flip the arm over)
Oh and upper link position front and rear in hole 1 (middle hole)
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Not having the fronts especially will make the car hook and unpredictable.
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Yep kick up is that front spacer. I would never run that on our car, it increases weight transfer and castor. Normally we do the opposite by adding shims under the FR block to give anti-dive.

David Jun's setup is basiclaly kit, it should get around ok. I think you'll find just fixing the kick-up, running asphalt springs (HPI silver, ride red) and runnning sway bars will solve your problems
I ordered the hpi silvers and some other stuff to try out, thanks for the input. Ill report back
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:02 PM   #6053
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I ordered the hpi silvers and some other stuff to try out, thanks for the input. Ill report back
Does this mean you will be building sway bars too???
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Old 10-01-2013, 04:40 PM   #6054
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Does this mean you will be building sway bars too???
Oh noo you didn't! !!!


Rofl!!!!
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:01 PM   #6055
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So I finally got to run my 417 today at the local track, in addition to my complete and total lack of driving skills the steering arm screw kept coming out. At one point I had to walk the track to find the screw but I lost the shim and the spacer. So my question is do you guys use Loctite on the steering arm screw and if so which strength do you use?
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Old 10-01-2013, 06:43 PM   #6056
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So I finally got to run my 417 today at the local track, in addition to my complete and total lack of driving skills the steering arm screw kept coming out. At one point I had to walk the track to find the screw but I lost the shim and the spacer. So my question is do you guys use Loctite on the steering arm screw and if so which strength do you use?
I did the same mistake.(lost 2 screws and shims) I accidentally put one of the shims that go in the hinge pin blocks instead of one thinner that was supposed to be. When I did that I couldn't tighten the screw all the way or it would bind. After we compared the car to another local one and shimmed it right I can tighten the screw all the way and it turns butter smooth. .



Its a 0.1 & a 0.7 I also added an extra .01 on the top between the arm and screw to get all the play out.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:23 PM   #6057
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Thanks, I must have had the wrong shims in. I'll need to get a new Micrometer as the one I have is having issues but I'll try some different combinations.
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Old 10-01-2013, 07:58 PM   #6058
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still running the 417x. Wondering if I should upgrade to a 418 or just use the smokem v7 motor mount. I can't see the 418 being that different other than the flex characteristics. What your guys take on it?
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Old 10-02-2013, 02:25 AM   #6059
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Old 10-02-2013, 03:40 AM   #6060
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still running the 417x. Wondering if I should upgrade to a 418 or just use the smokem v7 motor mount. I can't see the 418 being that different other than the flex characteristics. What your guys take on it?
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