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Old 08-13-2013, 04:24 PM   #5776
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Actually you bent shims and then stripped the sun gear. The issue is the shims Use 0.3mm shims (like TDX) and always use metal gears with putty. You can shim the outside of the outdrive to get the play nice
Do you use .3 shims on both sides? I'm rebuilding my rear gear diff and it doesn't feel smooth, it feels a bit gritty. Using plastic gears
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:18 AM   #5777
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Do you use .3 shims on both sides? I'm rebuilding my rear gear diff and it doesn't feel smooth, it feels a bit gritty. Using plastic gears
Yep .3 each side. Plastic gears need to be sanded down a bit, normally I sand them until the 4 dots on the back of the sun gears are completely gone. Metal gears fit perfect every time
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:00 PM   #5778
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Actually you bent shims and then stripped the sun gear. The issue is the shims Use 0.3mm shims (like TDX) and always use metal gears with putty. You can shim the outside of the outdrive to get the play nice
So the shims coned, caused more clearance then the sun gear spun on the pin?

I ordered steel gears, blades and .1 shims. TQ was out of stock on .3 shims. Am I going to waste my time with the .1's again, even with steel gears? I can only find the TDX shims at rcfunny.com but that place looks a little shady. Do you know where else they can be purchased from? What about a local hardware store.

Will shimming the outside help with the inside shim coning?
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:19 PM   #5779
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I would recomendgettig that Tamiya puddy from me it works just fine in the 3 cars I have it in. I have plastic gears in my diff. My car drove really good last week qhen you can lap chris and steve the car worked good! I am making no changes thisweek i got a setup station an my car was off on toe an camber. So we will see if that makes the car drive better.
Thanks Brian but I'll try the Ride stuff one more time.

Yep, your car is working well again.

As poorly as my car was handling, I was only .25 second slower than your fast lap and 1 lap down from Steve and Chris in Expert as well as finished 2nd in Intermediate. I'm looking forward to this weekend.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:11 PM   #5780
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Default v5 battery mounts

guys
im after the part numbers for the v5 battery mounts and dose any know where I can purchase some from
many thanks
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:41 PM   #5781
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guys
im after the part numbers for the v5 battery mounts and dose any know where I can purchase some from
many thanks
(2) K2 from K plastic tree
(2) 3x1mm spacer
(1) 3x2mm spacer
(1) 3x3mm spacer
(3) 3x8mm countersunk screw
(1) 3x10mm countersunk screw

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4801
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=621
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Tamiya TRF417-v5batterymounts.jpg  
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:03 PM   #5782
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Dizope my car was .10 off steve's and .4 off chris's fastlaps now that i have a car i can drive i will work on my motors. There was no point in having speed if you can't get the car to hook it up to the track.i talk to Chris an i motor supplier and he made some suggestions i will try this week and if that doesn't work it will be time to put a D3.5. I might do that anyway! See ya Saturday.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:30 PM   #5783
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So the shims coned, caused more clearance then the sun gear spun on the pin?

I ordered steel gears, blades and .1 shims. TQ was out of stock on .3 shims. Am I going to waste my time with the .1's again, even with steel gears? I can only find the TDX shims at rcfunny.com but that place looks a little shady. Do you know where else they can be purchased from? What about a local hardware store.

Will shimming the outside help with the inside shim coning?
Correct, I don't think you should bother with the 0.1mm shims. You can use any .3mm shims, I actually used to use .5 for extra strength but since I use TDX I haven't had to go to such extreme lengths to stop the shims coning

Here's how to put 0.5mm shims in:
http://tchub.wordpress.com/2012/04/1...f-a-la-mcphee/

Shimming the outside just stops the gears from binding under load

p.s. I'm pretty sure the tamiya putty and ride putty are exactly the same, just different stickers
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:31 PM   #5784
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(2) K2 from K plastic tree
(2) 3x1mm spacer
(1) 3x2mm spacer
(1) 3x3mm spacer
(3) 3x8mm countersunk screw
(1) 3x10mm countersunk screw

http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ....asp?p_id=4801
http://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/produ...w.asp?p_id=621
Thanks very much for the fast response
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:38 PM   #5785
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Thanks very much for the fast response
You're welcome.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:51 PM   #5786
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could someone list out each 417 genaration with product year? thanks! I only know the oldest is 417, and the latest is the 417v5.
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:59 PM   #5787
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could someone list out each 417 genaration with product year? thanks! I only know the oldest is 417, and the latest is the 417v5.
42184 TRF417 - December 2010
(42200 TRF417 w Gear Diff - June 2011)
42205 TRF417X - December 2011
(42235 TRF417X Reedy Race - July 2012)
42240 TRF417 V5 - December 2012

The 42200 & 42235 kits were just the same cars as the TRF417 & TRF417X with some option parts included in the box.
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Old 08-15-2013, 04:29 AM   #5788
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Thanks Brian but I'll try the Ride stuff one more time.

Yep, your car is working well again.

As poorly as my car was handling, I was only .25 second slower than your fast lap and 1 lap down from Steve and Chris in Expert as well as finished 2nd in Intermediate. I'm looking forward to this weekend.
have tried using 2.5million in diff as it seems to work well plus tdx shins will be in stock soon
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:35 PM   #5789
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Does someone have a link for recommended titanium and aluminum screws for a v5?
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:35 PM   #5790
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Does someone have a link for recommended titanium and aluminum screws for a v5?
Justin ask me about titanium screws today for my new car I'm building he was about to order titanuim screws and I asked him to order so alluminum screws too.Ask justin tomorrow about some they have most of the titanium screws in stock. He is order the alluminums asap.
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Last edited by vivo quevas; 08-15-2013 at 08:50 PM.
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