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Old 08-12-2013, 03:00 PM   #5761
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Default picked up a new 417!

new to tamiya and happy to have finally jumped wagons from ae

been looking to some set ups, but not sure which one is the one that seems to work the best or which one everyone prefers.

i got the 417 with gear diff 2. i started building the car, but i havent gotten to the shocks yet. i put 2k diff oil in rear and went with the spool up front until i can get a gear diff for it or see if i like the spool.

track is mid-high grip outdoor asphalt and bumpy. was thinking of 37.5 front and 32.5 rear?
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Old 08-12-2013, 09:35 PM   #5762
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Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
new to tamiya and happy to have finally jumped wagons from ae

been looking to some set ups, but not sure which one is the one that seems to work the best or which one everyone prefers.

i got the 417 with gear diff 2. i started building the car, but i havent gotten to the shocks yet. i put 2k diff oil in rear and went with the spool up front until i can get a gear diff for it or see if i like the spool.

track is mid-high grip outdoor asphalt and bumpy. was thinking of 37.5 front and 32.5 rear?
I think 2k is too much for our track I recomend going 1k an I tried 35w in the front shocks and then Tim drove my car and said I should go 32.5w in fhe front and 30w in rear.
If I was you I would copy Justin's setup his 417x is so easy to drive fast. I copied it on my car and my car drove great in the main I was down on low and midrange power to chris and steve but the car drove really good! 417's drive so much better then my 6.1 you know I haven't got around the track with any speed since I bought a 6.1 3 month's ago!
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:54 PM   #5763
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
I think 2k is too much for our track I recomend going 1k an I tried 35w in the front shocks and then Tim drove my car and said I should go 32.5w in fhe front and 30w in rear.
If I was you I would copy Justin's setup his 417x is so easy to drive fast. I copied it on my car and my car drove great in the main I was down on low and midrange power to chris and steve but the car drove really good! 417's drive so much better then my 6.1 you know I haven't got around the track with any speed since I bought a 6.1 3 month's ago!
Where do I download it or I have to go in the shop and copy it? Do you know if they got 1k in the shop? My tc6.1 has 32.5 front and rears but I was thinking going a stiffer spring in back and #3 piston.

So from what I'm reading with the 417 go with.

35 front
30 rear
What piston?
Hpi silver (can't get them this week) so I got the tamiya with thw stiffer ones)

Whites fronts with blue rears?
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:10 PM   #5764
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so could anyone here tell me which is the best 417 out of the box for TCS GT1 Class legal?

is it the X or the V5

Thanks
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Old 08-12-2013, 11:45 PM   #5765
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Originally Posted by -jacob- View Post
so could anyone here tell me which is the best 417 out of the box for TCS GT1 Class legal?

is it the X or the V5

Thanks
V5. Easier to drive.
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:34 AM   #5766
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Default Alternative spool cups

Anyone know good alternative spool cups that can be used in the v5? Can't seem to locate any Tamiya ones in stock anywhere...
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:38 AM   #5767
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Anyone know good alternative spool cups that can be used in the v5? Can't seem to locate any Tamiya ones in stock anywhere...
Arena spool cups from rc market.
They have 4 slots on each outdrive so double value for money
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:48 AM   #5768
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roche im pretty sure make spool cups
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Old 08-13-2013, 08:57 AM   #5769
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George I would try the car with the stock springs. I just went to the shop an looked at justins car an asked him many questions. He doesn't run split blocks in the front i bought a solid c block to replace my split blocks an moved the solid b block to replace the split b blocks. My has .05' of arm sweep in it. Use the stock pistons an after you have a handle on the car make changes one at a time. Richard made too many changes last week and you see his car went from very driveable to loose!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.juarez View Post
Where do I download it or I have to go in the shop and copy it? Do you know if they got 1k in the shop? My tc6.1 has 32.5 front and rears but I was thinking going a stiffer spring in back and #3 piston.

So from what I'm reading with the 417 go with.

35 front
30 rear
What piston?
Hpi silver (can't get them this week) so I got the tamiya with thw stiffer ones)

Whites fronts with blue rears?
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:16 AM   #5770
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Yep, too many changes but it was a test night so no big deal, although, I do think a fresh set of tires would have helped. I may start putting on new ones every other race instead of when I think they are worn out.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:24 AM   #5771
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I stripped a side gear (pin side) and bent the shims in a brand new diff II using Ride 45 putty. Do I need metal gears for this putty or did I just overfill it?

Also, the long outdrive has a lot of play when only using the supplied 3 shims. The diff that came with the v5 kit didn't have this kind of play.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:40 AM   #5772
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I would recomendgettig that Tamiya puddy from me it works just fine in the 3 cars I have it in. I have plastic gears in my diff. My car drove really good last week qhen you can lap chris and steve the car worked good! I am making no changes thisweek i got a setup station an my car was off on toe an camber. So we will see if that makes the car drive better.
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Originally Posted by dizope View Post
I stripped a side gear (pin side) and bent the shims in a brand new diff II using Ride 45 putty. Do I need metal gears for this putty or did I just overfill it?

Also, the long outdrive has a lot of play when only using the supplied 3 shims. The diff that came with the v5 kit didn't have this kind of play.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:57 AM   #5773
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
George I would try the car with the stock springs. I just went to the shop an looked at justins car an asked him many questions. He doesn't run split blocks in the front i bought a solid c block to replace my split blocks an moved the solid b block to replace the split b blocks. My has .05' of arm sweep in it. Use the stock pistons an after you have a handle on the car make changes one at a time. Richard made too many changes last week and you see his car went from very driveable to loose!

Ill go pester the crap out of him today!!! bringing blank paper and pen!!
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Old 08-13-2013, 01:03 PM   #5774
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Default Just picked up 417

Will be running 17.5 stock spec (no boost etc) for a little carpet and asphalt. Got a question or 2.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
Don't bother with trying to find Tamiya spurs that size. I'm pretty sure they don't make them for the 417. RW racing V2 spurs work really well. You can get them through Speedtech RC.
Thanks for this tip, and the link (spent some $$'s). Did not like the idea of drilling holes in my spur.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyE View Post
17.5 Blinky I run 90T RW Racing V2 spur with a 43 pinion. FDR is around 4.
I have not run the car on track yet, but starting with a FDR of 3.744 (100/52) should be ok? Is the FDR of 4 a starting point or is that your preference due to track layout??

Also, what gear diff oil wght in rear should I use/start with?
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:39 PM   #5775
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Originally Posted by dizope View Post
I stripped a side gear (pin side) and bent the shims in a brand new diff II using Ride 45 putty. Do I need metal gears for this putty or did I just overfill it?

Also, the long outdrive has a lot of play when only using the supplied 3 shims. The diff that came with the v5 kit didn't have this kind of play.
Actually you bent shims and then stripped the sun gear. The issue is the shims Use 0.3mm shims (like TDX) and always use metal gears with putty. You can shim the outside of the outdrive to get the play nice
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