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Old 07-27-2013, 05:21 AM   #5716
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
Not true, they are 64 pitch
Not true, they are 0.4 module. See TRF417V5 box sleeve.

64dp and 0.4 module gears are not interchangeable!!
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:16 AM   #5717
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Not true, they are 0.4 module. See TRF417V5 box sleeve.

64dp and 0.4 module gears are not interchangeable!!
That's also not true, the 0.4 module and 64dp is that close that you can run them together. I've used my tamiya pinions on 64dp spurs for a number of years , So I KNOW that they work together without reliability issues. 48dp and 0.6 module on the other hand do not work together.
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Old 07-27-2013, 07:11 AM   #5718
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That's also not true, the 0.4 module and 64dp is that close that you can run them together. I've used my tamiya pinions on 64dp spurs for a number of years , So I KNOW that they work together without reliability issues. 48dp and 0.6 module on the other hand do not work together.
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Old 07-27-2013, 06:39 PM   #5719
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Originally Posted by vivo quevas View Post
Is this true by using B blocks reducing track width will increase steering?
Yes and no, it definitely makes the car more twitchy, I find wider like C/C has more mid corner steering and steers more "round" in corners. I always start with C/C XA/E and go from there, and I always use split blocks front and rear

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Originally Posted by dizope View Post
I have been running AE 40wt shock oil (500 cst) in the rear diffs. This works fine for the TC6.1.

Okay. Ordered AE 2k diff oil and HPI silver springs yesterday. Ran out of time to order the large springs cups but am going to now.

Should I order any suspension blocks?

What do you mean lower the bottom arm roll center to 0mm/0.5mm?
The TC6 diff has a much lower volume than the TRF diff, so you need to use a much thicker oil in your TRF diff

In the suspension you have 2 places you can change the roll centre. Upper arm by changing the camber link shims and lower arm by changing the spacing under the suspension blocks. 0mm/0.5mm means you'll have no spacers under the FF block and 0.5mm (kit) spacing under the FR split blocks.

See above about the blocks I run

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Originally Posted by DPRacing View Post
hi guys, have a few questions about the shocks (417x basic)

- Which O-rings are recommendable? Tamiya # 42137 O-ring or X-ring #42214? or what is the difference?

Or O-rings other manufacturers?( I read a few years time, Jilles drive Muchmore o-ring 50) .

- build with one o-ring + shaft guide or 2 o-rings?


- what advantage brings a downstop O-Ring?

Thanks for answer!
Shaft guide and 1 x ring. I can never remember which x-ring to use, someone else will chime in. It can help to use shims to squeeze the x-ring for a better seal. I haven't seen a downstop o-ring used in years on the tamiya, the team used to sometimes run it on carpet to stop traction roll

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Originally Posted by dizope View Post
I was able to get some more throw out of the servo last night by extending the EPA to 150% (R) and 125% (L). It was at 100% previously.

I installed the servo saver per the manual, one tooth (5*) to the left with the servo in neutral. I built the servo turnbuckle with a 4.5mm gap, like the manual recommends.

I read earlier in this thread where someone else went from a Savox 1258 to a 1251 and had the same lack of throw problem.

All of my other models have 1258's and don't need past 100% EPA. I use an Airtronics MT-4 transmitter.

I used an angle finder to set the throw to roughly 27 degrees (~1mm) from the c-hub. In doing this, I realized the left side has more throw than the right side. Trim is at zero. Subtrim is at R20. REV is normal.

With the EPA extended, I now have a tighter turning radius but is that the correct fix or do I have some other mechanical issue.
I can't really comment on your servo, but as long as you can get full throw you're good. My subtrim is about the same. Here's how I mount my servo horn, with right angle to the link

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Old 07-28-2013, 08:38 AM   #5720
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With silicon oil you run the 50x o-ring and with mineral oil(TRF) the 70x ring The competition blue ring works well too, it seals a little better than the x-ring but the x-ring gives the smoothest action.
What shims do you use Craig? I've only got 0.1 in, i tried with 0.2 but it wasn't as smooth.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:21 PM   #5721
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Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
With silicon oil you run the 50x o-ring and with mineral oil(TRF) the 70x ring The competition blue ring works well too, it seals a little better than the x-ring but the x-ring gives the smoothest action.
What shims do you use Craig? I've only got 0.1 in, i tried with 0.2 but it wasn't as smooth.
.4 with the x-rings
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:43 AM   #5722
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Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
The TC6 diff has a much lower volume than the TRF diff, so you need to use a much thicker oil in your TRF diff

In the suspension you have 2 places you can change the roll centre. Upper arm by changing the camber link shims and lower arm by changing the spacing under the suspension blocks. 0mm/0.5mm means you'll have no spacers under the FF block and 0.5mm (kit) spacing under the FR split blocks.

See above about the blocks I run

I can't really comment on your servo, but as long as you can get full throw you're good. My subtrim is about the same. Here's how I mount my servo horn, with right angle to the link
Craig, thanks for the help. I ran the car this weekend and it was night and day better with the additional steering throw.
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:58 PM   #5723
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What is the largest 48p spur that will fit on the 417x?
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Old 07-31-2013, 06:38 AM   #5724
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I'm currently running my camber links in the longest position front and rear. The car is very stable and easy to drive but I'm trying to get it to transition faster from corner to corner. Will shortening the links improve the transition speed? If I shorten the links will I need to make adjustments to the roll center to maintain the stability that I have?
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:10 AM   #5725
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Shortening links will transition faster from corner to corner, The middle hole is the best allround option for most tracks
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Old 08-02-2013, 04:31 AM   #5726
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I have to say i really like the 417v5. coming from a t3 the tamiya is really smooth and consistent.
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:05 PM   #5727
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At euros I haven't seen any upgrades on the car, despite the fact that marc as well as jilles feel that the car is very inconsistent.
We can expect a competitive 418 or not?
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Old 08-03-2013, 02:28 PM   #5728
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Tamiya needs to make a strong move with their next kit, that's for sure.
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Old 08-03-2013, 03:07 PM   #5729
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Tamiya needs to make a strong move with their next kit, that's for sure.
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Old 08-04-2013, 03:35 AM   #5730
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Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
At euros I haven't seen any upgrades on the car, despite the fact that marc as well as jilles feel that the car is very inconsistent.
We can expect a competitive 418 or not?
So you haven't seen the new tamiya motor mount? Chassis? Top deck?

Are you not competitive with your current car? If so do you blame the car? I made RROC and AOC A-mains with this car. There's nothing wrong with it
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