Tamiya TRF417
#5701
Tech Champion
iTrader: (34)
Dedicated parking lot asphalt sprayed with a water/cola mix.
The car needs a tighter turning radius, it turns slowly at low speed compared to my TC6.1. It has a Savox 1251 servo, could that be the issue? My other cars have 1258's.
Team Powers 32 rubber tires.
Paragon Traction Compound (100% coverage).
Thanks for the help.
The car needs a tighter turning radius, it turns slowly at low speed compared to my TC6.1. It has a Savox 1251 servo, could that be the issue? My other cars have 1258's.
Team Powers 32 rubber tires.
Paragon Traction Compound (100% coverage).
Thanks for the help.
For asphalt run either ride red or HPI silver springs, and for more rotation go to a harder diff. Start with 2k for most tracks, I've been using 4-5k lately
I always run the 0.5mm wheel spacers, the car feels too twitchy without them. For more steering you can lower the bottom arm roll centre to 0mm/0.5mm for anti dive or 0mm/0mm for more overall grip
#5702
Tech Master
iTrader: (19)
NItrox416,
Tx a lot for the suggestion.
The track is indeed small, http://prorc.ae/videos/
Decreasing the track width using B blocks at the front will increase steering at the front.
At the moment I'm using C-and C-separate already.
Reducing weight transfer is a good idea.
Will play with the droop.
Tx a lot for the suggestion.
The track is indeed small, http://prorc.ae/videos/
Decreasing the track width using B blocks at the front will increase steering at the front.
At the moment I'm using C-and C-separate already.
Reducing weight transfer is a good idea.
Will play with the droop.
#5705
Tech Regular
#5706
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
Set your steering throw to 27 degrees which is about 1mm before the knuckle hits the chub
For asphalt run either ride red or HPI silver springs, and for more rotation go to a harder diff. Start with 2k for most tracks, I've been using 4-5k lately
I always run the 0.5mm wheel spacers, the car feels too twitchy without them. For more steering you can lower the bottom arm roll centre to 0mm/0.5mm for anti dive or 0mm/0mm for more overall grip
For asphalt run either ride red or HPI silver springs, and for more rotation go to a harder diff. Start with 2k for most tracks, I've been using 4-5k lately
I always run the 0.5mm wheel spacers, the car feels too twitchy without them. For more steering you can lower the bottom arm roll centre to 0mm/0.5mm for anti dive or 0mm/0mm for more overall grip
Okay. Ordered AE 2k diff oil and HPI silver springs yesterday. Ran out of time to order the large springs cups but am going to now.
Should I order any suspension blocks?
What do you mean lower the bottom arm roll center to 0mm/0.5mm?
#5709
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
The inside front blocks are the only split blocks in the kit setup. I don't know if the stock v5 chassis supports other split blocks or the use of non-split blocks.
I ordered the 1XA block to reduce the rear toe. I'm expecting the rear track width to stay the same. Hopefully it and the other stuff arrives before Saturday night's race.
#5710
Tech Master
iTrader: (35)
I would be guessing on the change in flex by using or not using split blocks.
The inside front blocks are the only split blocks in the kit setup. I don't know if the stock v5 chassis supports other split blocks or the use of non-split blocks.
I ordered the 1XA block to reduce the rear toe. I'm expecting the rear track width to stay the same. Hopefully it and the other stuff arrives before Saturday night's race.
The inside front blocks are the only split blocks in the kit setup. I don't know if the stock v5 chassis supports other split blocks or the use of non-split blocks.
I ordered the 1XA block to reduce the rear toe. I'm expecting the rear track width to stay the same. Hopefully it and the other stuff arrives before Saturday night's race.
Not sure if you have a block chart. I got this off TryHards' site. It's pretty handy.
#5712
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
By moving to the 1XA on the front block, it will change your track width. It would have been a much easier change to get a C block. That way your inside track width stays the same and the block is much easier to swap if you want to revert back to 3 deg. of toe.
Not sure if you have a block chart. I got this off TryHards' site. It's pretty handy.
Not sure if you have a block chart. I got this off TryHards' site. It's pretty handy.
#5714
Tech Initiate
hi guys, have a few questions about the shocks (417x basic)
- Which O-rings are recommendable? Tamiya # 42137 O-ring or X-ring #42214? or what is the difference?
Or O-rings other manufacturers?( I read a few years time, Jilles drive Muchmore o-ring 50) .
- build with one o-ring + shaft guide or 2 o-rings?
- what advantage brings a downstop O-Ring?
Thanks for answer!
- Which O-rings are recommendable? Tamiya # 42137 O-ring or X-ring #42214? or what is the difference?
Or O-rings other manufacturers?( I read a few years time, Jilles drive Muchmore o-ring 50) .
- build with one o-ring + shaft guide or 2 o-rings?
- what advantage brings a downstop O-Ring?
Thanks for answer!
#5715
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
I installed the servo saver per the manual, one tooth (5*) to the left with the servo in neutral. I built the servo turnbuckle with a 4.5mm gap, like the manual recommends.
I read earlier in this thread where someone else went from a Savox 1258 to a 1251 and had the same lack of throw problem.
All of my other models have 1258's and don't need past 100% EPA. I use an Airtronics MT-4 transmitter.
I used an angle finder to set the throw to roughly 27 degrees (~1mm) from the c-hub. In doing this, I realized the left side has more throw than the right side. Trim is at zero. Subtrim is at R20. REV is normal.
With the EPA extended, I now have a tighter turning radius but is that the correct fix or do I have some other mechanical issue.