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Old 07-14-2013, 10:13 AM   #5641
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Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
Thanks for help, I've all the screw of the original kit
If I change the the screw set with a lighter how many grams
I would save?
Which is a good method to shorten wires? I've tried some time ago but I
was unable to place the connector, so I ended up soldering directly a new short wire on the servo. Any suggestion?
If you want to shorten servo type wires you can just use a crimper and the plugs. But if your speedy to motor wires are already short, i wouldn't stress too much on shortening everything else to be extremely short, unless they are OVERLY long like from out of the box. You could take off your electronics and battery and weigh them, and weigh the car seperately with no electronics (with shell on), if your electronics by themselves are taking the car well and over the weight limit then there is not much you can do.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:03 AM   #5642
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Any help?????????????

What are the main difference between the 417, 417x and 417v5?
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:18 AM   #5643
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Originally Posted by missouri racer View Post
Any help?????????????

What are the main difference between the 417, 417x and 417v5?
It's long to talk about,
go on the kentech blog and every year starting from the post of september 2010 you can read about the new car
or download the manual of each car you will notice the differences
generally speaking tamiya has worked principally on the design of the chassis to gain more mechanical grip
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:21 AM   #5644
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Originally Posted by narcotiks View Post
If you want to shorten servo type wires you can just use a crimper and the plugs. But if your speedy to motor wires are already short, i wouldn't stress too much on shortening everything else to be extremely short, unless they are OVERLY long like from out of the box. You could take off your electronics and battery and weigh them, and weigh the car seperately with no electronics (with shell on), if your electronics by themselves are taking the car well and over the weight limit then there is not much you can do.
thanks for help
yes the wires are like out of the box, how much weight should I lose using lighter screws?
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Old 07-14-2013, 12:31 PM   #5645
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http://tamiyatorg.blogspot.co.uk/201...omparison.html
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Old 07-14-2013, 01:13 PM   #5646
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Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
Check out the BIWS set-up on my blog here. I have used this on Tamiya tyres (17.5 Blinky) the car handled well. You do need a front diff, so much more steering in and out. (The rear diff would only need 1k).


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Old 07-14-2013, 01:36 PM   #5647
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Will check it out now. Thanks Qatmix.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:21 PM   #5648
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Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
Attached the setup as requested.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf TRF417X.pdf (202.1 KB, 64 views)
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Old 07-15-2013, 12:28 AM   #5649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NovakSA View Post
Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
Attached the setup as requested.
running on asphalt?

try this:
FRONT:
spool in front
3rd hole from inside on shock tower
2mm shim inner camber link
2nd hole inner camber link
400wt oil (yellow)
red spring
5mm ride height
5mm droop
1B-1B suspension mount

REAR
1000 oil at the back gear diff
innermost hole on shock tower
1mm shim inner camber link
shortest camber link setting on bulkhead
400wt oil (yellow)
yellow or blue spring
5.5mm ride height
4mm droop
1XC-1C suspension mount

TIRE/INSERT:
soft inserts on Tamiya B3 tires

Try it with full tire compound on all tires...
if too much steering, put compound on the inner half of the front tires, full at the rear
if understeer, can reduce rear toe-in (use 1A or 1B)

hths
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Old 07-15-2013, 05:46 AM   #5650
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Will try this setup on Wednesday after work quickly. Thanks for the help guys. I have 5 days to get this car to work and win the race.
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Old 07-15-2013, 06:56 PM   #5651
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Nib v5 for sale. Pm for details
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Old 07-15-2013, 10:39 PM   #5652
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Is it really necessary to put a 3mm e-clip on the shafts connecting the spur gear it seems fine without it. Any opionions?
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Old 07-15-2013, 11:27 PM   #5653
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Is it really necessary to put a 3mm e-clip on the shafts connecting the spur gear it seems fine without it. Any opionions?
It's holds the whole assembly together
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Old 07-16-2013, 12:51 AM   #5654
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Originally Posted by NovakSA View Post
Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
Attached the setup as requested.
Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDooPH View Post
running on asphalt?

try this:
FRONT:
spool in front
3rd hole from inside on shock tower
2mm shim inner camber link
2nd hole inner camber link
400wt oil (yellow)
red spring
5mm ride height
5mm droop
1B-1B suspension mount

REAR
1000 oil at the back gear diff
innermost hole on shock tower
1mm shim inner camber link
shortest camber link setting on bulkhead
400wt oil (yellow)
yellow or blue spring
5.5mm ride height
4mm droop
1XC-1C suspension mount

TIRE/INSERT:
soft inserts on Tamiya B3 tires

Try it with full tire compound on all tires...
if too much steering, put compound on the inner half of the front tires, full at the rear
if understeer, can reduce rear toe-in (use 1A or 1B)

hths
Just one thing VooDooPH.
Are you sure about the Droop... In my experience the X preferred reverse droop.

Frt 4mm (under the arm).
Rr 5mm (under the arm)

... Just say'n!
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Old 07-17-2013, 12:54 AM   #5655
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Gearing starting point for reedy sonic 17.5 stock class with LRP flow. Check out track.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MawgU...ature=youtu.be
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