R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-12-2013, 06:18 PM   #5626
Tech Master
 
OnRDPassion's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: West LA
Posts: 1,185
Trader Rating: 54 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I'm in the middle of a rebuild and I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount my new Mylaps transponder. Until now I've only had the older PT and just mounted it on top of the servo. Does anyone actually use the mount that comes in the kit? I thought about using it but I wasn't very happy with how far out the transponder sits off the servo.
I ended up mounting mine right on top of the receiver, no issues what soever and gets it really close to the chassis. If you want to see what I'm talking about I can post a picture.
__________________
Jay Williams
Xray RX8 2014
RC America - Protoform Racing - KO Propo USA - Kevco Racing / Picco EDO Modified - Byrons Fuels
OnRDPassion is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #5627
Tech Master
 
Csaari77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,482
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

The reason I considered using the mount was to ensure that I could remove the transponder quickly and easily. I've always just used velcro to attach it to the servo. I tried to attached one to the bumper brace once on an Evo IV and the wires got severed in a nasty crash.
__________________
Half-A$$ Racing - Problem solved, problem staying solved!
Awesomatix - Serpent - Tekin - Futaba - Cooper Motorsports.
Csaari77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 06:57 PM   #5628
Tech Fanatic
 
Typeone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Fresno,Ca
Posts: 781
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Question should I put the urethane bushings in the work shocks or should it be fine running without them?
Typeone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 08:33 PM   #5629
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 452
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Typeone View Post
Question should I put the urethane bushings in the work shocks or should it be fine running without them?
You generally don't run the foam insert at all.
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 09:26 PM   #5630
Tech Fanatic
 
Typeone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Fresno,Ca
Posts: 781
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Ok thanks
Typeone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 09:32 PM   #5631
Tech Regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: missouri
Posts: 354
Trader Rating: 7 (100%+)
Default

What are the main difference between the 417, 417x and 417v5?
missouri racer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 11:24 PM   #5632
Tech Master
 
racer x 1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: im 4rm a far away place called 1st
Posts: 1,825
Trader Rating: 27 (100%+)
Default

ok so im pretty to my 417x and had a question about tamiyas spring offerings.
what is the difference performance wise between the white long type and black short type springs? is there a real difference on the track.
Oh and after two packs I literally feel in love with on road again! I have not driven any sedan that was this good from the get go!
__________________
Matt Bell
Mugen MRX5 Ae R5.2 X6^3 M11x All powered by Speedtech Rc
racer x 1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 08:00 AM   #5633
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,258
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by OnRDPassion View Post
I ended up mounting mine right on top of the receiver, no issues what soever and gets it really close to the chassis. If you want to see what I'm talking about I can post a picture.

I also mounted mine on the Rx with no issues.

JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 02:34 PM   #5634
Tech Adept
 
NItrox416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 168
Default

You can also put the trasponder in front of the battery.

A question for all. How much do your cars weight? I'm struggling to keep mine under 1400g considering that in my championship the limit is 1350
Any suggestions?
PS
I already have low profile servo, lw body, light esc(sxx) and motor (x12), short wires , battery 320g.
NItrox416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 03:59 PM   #5635
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hayward, CA
Posts: 1,258
Trader Rating: 26 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
You can also put the trasponder in front of the battery.

A question for all. How much do your cars weight? I'm struggling to keep mine under 1400g considering that in my championship the limit is 1350
Any suggestions?
PS
I already have low profile servo, lw body, light esc(sxx) and motor (x12), short wires , battery 320g.
Mine is 1340. I have to add weights to mine.
JoeyE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 05:15 PM   #5636
Tech Elite
 
Potoczak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 3,558
Trader Rating: 109 (100%+)
Default

Nib v5 for sale. Pm for details
__________________
Pete Potoczak

Home entertainment specialist
Secure Technologies/ www.stiworldwide.com
Potoczak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-13-2013, 07:07 PM   #5637
Tech Regular
 
nolo148's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 318
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NItrox416 View Post
You can also put the trasponder in front of the battery.

A question for all. How much do your cars weight? I'm struggling to keep mine under 1400g considering that in my championship the limit is 1350
Any suggestions?
PS
I already have low profile servo, lw body, light esc(sxx) and motor (x12), short wires , battery 320g.
Mine is 1380 with a 50c(300g) battery and 1390 with a 65c battery(310g). The weight limit is 1380g. Mine used to be like 1450 but I removed the battery stops which were like 15g ea, moved to a low profile servo (saved almost 20g) and I switched to a lw body. Right now the heavier parts are probably steel cups on the spool, dcj all around, mostly steel screws that are like 1-2mm above the hole for the alluminum parts, steel turnbuckles for steering, and messy receiver wiring and a big capacitor.

I'd suggest a lighter battery. check out the battery vs weight thread, it's pretty interesting.
nolo148 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 08:38 AM   #5638
Tech Initiate
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Cape Town; South Africa
Posts: 44
Default Setup for Tamiya Type-A tires

Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
NovakSA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 08:48 AM   #5639
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 452
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by NovakSA View Post
Hi guys, I am really struggling to get steering out of my 417X for our Tamiya Cup race this weekend coming. We have to run either A or B compound tamiya tires and only Tamiya parts as you all know. My car just seem to grain the front tires,but I have to really back off the throttle to get the car to turn on power and off power. Does anybody have a setup for these crappy tires. We run the Tamiya 18T system and gear them 51T/90T. The track is tight and narrow with banked and off camber turns. Will a tire additive help? I am so frustrated.
Can you post your current setup on a setup sheet? that will make it easier for everyone to point you in the right direction
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-14-2013, 08:53 AM   #5640
Tech Adept
 
NItrox416's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 168
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nolo148 View Post
Mine is 1380 with a 50c(300g) battery and 1390 with a 65c battery(310g). The weight limit is 1380g. Mine used to be like 1450 but I removed the battery stops which were like 15g ea, moved to a low profile servo (saved almost 20g) and I switched to a lw body. Right now the heavier parts are probably steel cups on the spool, dcj all around, mostly steel screws that are like 1-2mm above the hole for the alluminum parts, steel turnbuckles for steering, and messy receiver wiring and a big capacitor.

I'd suggest a lighter battery. check out the battery vs weight thread, it's pretty interesting.
Thanks for help, I've all the screw of the original kit
If I change the the screw set with a lighter how many grams
I would save?
Which is a good method to shorten wires? I've tried some time ago but I
was unable to place the connector, so I ended up soldering directly a new short wire on the servo. Any suggestion?
NItrox416 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saudi Arabia RC Club grizzle Manila Racers 6558 01-06-2017 08:50 AM
Tamiya TRF415 JDM_DOHC_SiR Electric On-Road 21094 03-10-2016 11:02 AM
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X academygaz Electric On-Road 10619 01-01-2015 03:36 PM
Tamiya TA05 IFS rcforum Electric On-Road 1132 12-18-2014 05:19 AM
"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors JGH Electric On-Road 1996 05-27-2014 06:28 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:04 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net