R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Electric On-Road

Like Tree1Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 07-09-2013, 07:15 AM   #5611
Tech Apprentice
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 87
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by CraigM View Post
That setup should be pretty good, stand the rear shocks up to hole 5 and see how you go, and 2k oil in the diff. Also remove the front motor mount screw and replace it with a grub screw - you'll have to use loctite or glue to hold it in place. That will let the chassis flex more on power, and it'll also give a bit more steering.
An alternative to loctite grub screw is to use a button M3 hex screw and screw it in reverse so that the threaded part goes into the chassis's front motor mount hole - a bit like a keyed part

Edit - by reverse I meant screw from top down instead
__________________
Tamiya - TRF 417V5 - Smokem - Hobbywing V3 - Reedy Sonic 4.5 Mach2
Sanwa M12

Last edited by iwkyb; 07-09-2013 at 07:26 AM.
iwkyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2013, 07:29 AM   #5612
Tech Adept
 
skyball's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Bavaria / Germany
Posts: 146
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyball View Post
Hi Craig,

when using the Raceberry chassis, would you also replace one motor mount screw with a grub screw? If so, which one (or both)? There's one in the top deck and one in the chassis.

ATM I tend to replace the screw in the top deck. To me it feels like the car as a whole flexes more evenly like this, also the car seems less prone to tweaking now.

Greetings, Christian
***BUMP***
__________________
[Sanwa M12][Awesomatix A800][Ronalds Yoke BD-7 2014][Roche P12 2016][Asso RC12R5.2][VBC LightningFXM]
skyball is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2013, 08:00 AM   #5613
Tech Master
 
Csaari77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,490
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Does anyone have a trick to get the coupling off of the plastic spool cups with destroying the cups?
__________________
Half-A$$ Racing - Problem solved, problem staying solved!
Awesomatix - Serpent - Tekin - Futaba - Cooper Motorsports.
Csaari77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2013, 11:40 PM   #5614
Tech Fanatic
 
Typeone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Fresno,Ca
Posts: 781
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Should I run the carbon brace if I'm running on asphalt??
Typeone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-09-2013, 11:41 PM   #5615
Tech Fanatic
 
Typeone's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Fresno,Ca
Posts: 781
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Sorry the carbon brace that connects the bellcrank system??
Typeone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2013, 10:19 AM   #5616
Tech Elite
 
Jochim_18's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: CALI
Posts: 2,364
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Typeone View Post
Sorry the carbon brace that connects the bellcrank system??
I also run at hobbytown in Fresno. My answer is no you don't want to run carbon brace in your bellcrank it make the chassis front end stiffer. Grip at hobbytown is very un-predictable. You want your car to have more mechanical flex with lower roll center.
__________________
Localrcracing.com - Your premiere source of Radio controlled Racing in central California.

Visaliahobbies.com * SkyRC * casterracingparts.com
Jochim_18 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-10-2013, 09:54 PM   #5617
Tech Elite
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,052
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

so who has the best price state side on a TRF417V5 ? Tower is 537 then you can get the discount. Or should I just get the 417x from tamiya for 400. Im just racing outdoor tracks 17.5 nr
vr6cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 08:56 AM   #5618
Tech Master
 
Johnn27's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,570
Trader Rating: 69 (100%+)
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
so who has the best price state side on a TRF417V5 ? Tower is 537 then you can get the discount. Or should I just get the 417x from tamiya for 400. Im just racing outdoor tracks 17.5 nr
Get the v5! and then the raceberry chassis!
Johnn27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 10:47 AM   #5619
Tech Master
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: santa monica / manchester
Posts: 1,247
Default

The 417 is great, the v5 is also nice. The Raceberry is absolutely not needed for 17.5 (it works for some ofthe team drivers in 4.5 mod though).
__________________
http://www.theRcRacer.com/

TRF419, TBEvo6, TT02, VDF, TRF501x, TRF201, TRF101, Mi5, X-Ray T4-13, BD7 2014, A700 Evo, WR-02G
Qatmix is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 05:07 PM   #5620
Tech Champion
 
CraigM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 7,009
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by iwkyb View Post
An alternative to loctite grub screw is to use a button M3 hex screw and screw it in reverse so that the threaded part goes into the chassis's front motor mount hole - a bit like a keyed part

Edit - by reverse I meant screw from top down instead
Yep that's what I do on the regular car, raceberry needs a grub scruw

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyball View Post
Hi Craig,

when using the Raceberry chassis, would you also replace one motor mount screw with a grub screw? If so, which one (or both)? There's one in the top deck and one in the chassis.

ATM I tend to replace the screw in the top deck. To me it feels like the car as a whole flexes more evenly like this, also the car seems less prone to tweaking now.

Greetings, Christian
I lost the middle top deck screw in a race and it made my car very inconsistent so I always run with the bottom screw out replaced with the grub screw. It seems to give more steering and rear grip on power at the expense of tweaking easier
__________________
www.facebook.com/mcpheerc
CraigM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-11-2013, 06:41 PM   #5621
Tech Elite
 
vr6cj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 4,052
Trader Rating: 124 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnn27 View Post
Get the v5! and then the raceberry chassis!
I would if you give me the other 250 bucks to get the diggleberry set. :P
vr6cj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 01:30 AM   #5622
Tech Adept
 
C van der Hagen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: The Netherlands
Posts: 238
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vr6cj View Post
I would if you give me the other 250 bucks to get the diggleberry set. :P
Or the SRP conversion set?
C van der Hagen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 02:07 PM   #5623
Tech Master
 
Csaari77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Huntsville, AL
Posts: 1,490
Trader Rating: 34 (100%+)
Default

I'm in the middle of a rebuild and I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount my new Mylaps transponder. Until now I've only had the older PT and just mounted it on top of the servo. Does anyone actually use the mount that comes in the kit? I thought about using it but I wasn't very happy with how far out the transponder sits off the servo.
__________________
Half-A$$ Racing - Problem solved, problem staying solved!
Awesomatix - Serpent - Tekin - Futaba - Cooper Motorsports.
Csaari77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 04:38 PM   #5624
Tech Regular
 
nolo148's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Vancouver, Canada
Posts: 318
Default

I mount my on the carbon fiber piece that supports the bumper using double sided tape.
nolo148 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-12-2013, 06:13 PM   #5625
Tech Regular
 
narcotiks's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 452
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Csaari77 View Post
I'm in the middle of a rebuild and I'm trying to figure out the best place to mount my new Mylaps transponder. Until now I've only had the older PT and just mounted it on top of the servo. Does anyone actually use the mount that comes in the kit? I thought about using it but I wasn't very happy with how far out the transponder sits off the servo.
I mount mine on the v5 servo mount on the centerline of the car. Before that it would just be next to the receiver. You could cut some foam out of the bumper and put it in there if you really wanted to.
narcotiks is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Saudi Arabia RC Club grizzle Manila Racers 6558 01-06-2017 08:50 AM
Tamiya TRF415 JDM_DOHC_SiR Electric On-Road 21094 03-10-2016 11:02 AM
Tamiya TRF416 / TRF416WE / TRF416X academygaz Electric On-Road 10619 01-01-2015 03:36 PM
Tamiya TA05 IFS rcforum Electric On-Road 1132 12-18-2014 05:19 AM
"Ask" Jilles Groskamp Tamiya 416 & 417, Team Orion Motors JGH Electric On-Road 1996 05-27-2014 06:28 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 03:57 AM.


Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net